Two main choices: Filament (FDM - Fused Deposition Modeling) or Resin (SLA - Symbionese Liberation Army. No, sorry, it’s really StereoLithography Apparatus).
Filament printers can generally make larger prints, but with less detail. Several different types of plastic filament are melted and extruded to create the print.
Heat is the main hazard, don’t touch the hot part. Some filaments smell more than others.
Prints are ready to go when done. But some sanding or filling might be desired.
Resin printers use various liquid resins that are cured with UV light. Generally the build area is smaller, but they are capable of much finer detail. The layer height is typically 0.05 mm.
The resin is an annoyance/irritation hazard, wear gloves, eye protection, you probably want an unused area and/or good ventilation.
Printing is the longest part, but then you have to wash off the extra uncured resin. Alcohol is typically used, but other solvents are used too.
After washing, you need to fully cure the resin with UV light. That can be anything from putting it in sunlight, to any homebrew UV source & opaque container, to fancy purpose built gadgets.
Both washing & curing only take a few minutes each.
Both are filament and resin printers are SLOW. Prints are going to take hours. Plan on that.
Height and width both add to time on filament printers, as they “draw” a continuous line.
Resin printers expose an entire layer at a time, so the horizontal size is irrelevant, only the vertical. A wide model, or a full build plate of smaller models doesn’t take any longer than a tiny object.
If you’re going to have little fingers involved, filament is probably a better choice than resin. You just have to say: “Don’t touch that part, it’s hot.”, instead of messing with resin & alcohol.
I’m no expert, but I’ve had a small filament printer for a while (Monoprice MP Select Mini), and recently bought one of the biggest (affordable) resin printers, the Anycubic Photon X.
Oh yea, there’s the fiddle factor. Don’t expect a magic box, or Star Trek replicator, that always gives you just what you want. There’s setup, leveling, tweaking settings, “supports”, learning how the “slicing” program (turns a 3D model into a form the printer understands) works. Then figuring out why a print didn’t come out right, or flat out failed. Some printers are easier than others, but more smarts and more features usually means more money.
It’s going to be a process and a journey, not plug & play.
You forgot to replete 3d-printers are S-L-O-W, worst than a turtle, Snail, or even a Sloth.
Good Resource is ALL3DP.COM. the have lor of articles on all things 2D. Including Buyers guides at each major price point, one on filament (both are annual guides) great sites for models.
@mycya4me
Slow, and at the same time, not necessarily something that you can start up with a new job and just walk away from. I’ve seen numerous pics of what can happen when the print goes wrong, not all merely hilarious. Some of them even manage to go beyond “oh, s&^%”.
@werehatrack yes spaghetti prints are awesome and I stop them ASAP and throw the results in the recycle bag.
Still I like the 2 I have. Even though they are budget ones, Creality Ender 3 pro & CR 6se. But still they have issues that need to be resolved.
Of course the more you pay the faster they become and the less problems you have, then you’ll be paying over $1000 where are the two from Creality were around $300/ each.
So if you have a Microcenter nearby, this becomes a pretty easy question. Do some well timed searches and there’s a facebook/instagram ad that’s been circulating for an Ender 3 for $100. Not the best printer ever, but cheap, relatively reliable (especially after some basic modifications) and built like a tank, which makes it a pretty good introduction to the hobby. Also their house brand of filament isn’t bad and has the added advantage of being able to be browsed in person.
Otherwise, which printer to choose really becomes a question of budget, and as mentioned earlier, ALL3D is a fantastic resource.
Two main choices: Filament (FDM - Fused Deposition Modeling) or Resin (SLA - Symbionese Liberation Army. No, sorry, it’s really StereoLithography Apparatus).
Filament printers can generally make larger prints, but with less detail. Several different types of plastic filament are melted and extruded to create the print.
Heat is the main hazard, don’t touch the hot part. Some filaments smell more than others.
Prints are ready to go when done. But some sanding or filling might be desired.
Resin printers use various liquid resins that are cured with UV light. Generally the build area is smaller, but they are capable of much finer detail. The layer height is typically 0.05 mm.
The resin is an annoyance/irritation hazard, wear gloves, eye protection, you probably want an unused area and/or good ventilation.
Printing is the longest part, but then you have to wash off the extra uncured resin. Alcohol is typically used, but other solvents are used too.
After washing, you need to fully cure the resin with UV light. That can be anything from putting it in sunlight, to any homebrew UV source & opaque container, to fancy purpose built gadgets.
Both washing & curing only take a few minutes each.
Both are filament and resin printers are SLOW. Prints are going to take hours. Plan on that.
Height and width both add to time on filament printers, as they “draw” a continuous line.
Resin printers expose an entire layer at a time, so the horizontal size is irrelevant, only the vertical. A wide model, or a full build plate of smaller models doesn’t take any longer than a tiny object.
If you’re going to have little fingers involved, filament is probably a better choice than resin. You just have to say: “Don’t touch that part, it’s hot.”, instead of messing with resin & alcohol.
I’m no expert, but I’ve had a small filament printer for a while (Monoprice MP Select Mini), and recently bought one of the biggest (affordable) resin printers, the Anycubic Photon X.
Oh yea, there’s the fiddle factor. Don’t expect a magic box, or Star Trek replicator, that always gives you just what you want. There’s setup, leveling, tweaking settings, “supports”, learning how the “slicing” program (turns a 3D model into a form the printer understands) works. Then figuring out why a print didn’t come out right, or flat out failed. Some printers are easier than others, but more smarts and more features usually means more money.
It’s going to be a process and a journey, not plug & play.
@blaineg I would “star” this comment 5 times if I could. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
You forgot to replete 3d-printers are S-L-O-W, worst than a turtle, Snail, or even a Sloth.
Good Resource is ALL3DP.COM. the have lor of articles on all things 2D. Including Buyers guides at each major price point, one on filament (both are annual guides) great sites for models.
@mycya4me
Slow, and at the same time, not necessarily something that you can start up with a new job and just walk away from. I’ve seen numerous pics of what can happen when the print goes wrong, not all merely hilarious. Some of them even manage to go beyond “oh, s&^%”.
@werehatrack yes spaghetti prints are awesome and I stop them ASAP and throw the results in the recycle bag.
Still I like the 2 I have. Even though they are budget ones, Creality Ender 3 pro & CR 6se. But still they have issues that need to be resolved.
Of course the more you pay the faster they become and the less problems you have, then you’ll be paying over $1000 where are the two from Creality were around $300/ each.
MEALS! DEALS! EELS! AWESOME!
I have an Ender 3D pro and really enjoy it.
There are a couple of threads here about them. They are all pretty informative, just for general knowledge.
https://meh.com/forum/topics/3d-printer-1
https://meh.com/forum/topics/finally-got-the-3d-printer-up-and-running <----this was mine and I’m still printing
https://meh.com/forum/topics/ender-33d-printing-superthread
https://meh.com/forum/topics/3d-printer-health-alert
https://meh.com/forum/topics/3d-printer-request
https://meh.com/forum/topics/3d-printer
So if you have a Microcenter nearby, this becomes a pretty easy question. Do some well timed searches and there’s a facebook/instagram ad that’s been circulating for an Ender 3 for $100. Not the best printer ever, but cheap, relatively reliable (especially after some basic modifications) and built like a tank, which makes it a pretty good introduction to the hobby. Also their house brand of filament isn’t bad and has the added advantage of being able to be browsed in person.
Otherwise, which printer to choose really becomes a question of budget, and as mentioned earlier, ALL3D is a fantastic resource.