I'm BUILDing a house, what upgrades do I need?
11We've had a few house buying topics the last year or so, but no love for building. So, the house we are building is the same cost and size as 60 year old houses in the area, so we're building!
We're hoping to be in this house forever, and we're fairly young. What should we think about fur upgrades?
We're planning on granite countertops, extra big garage, wiring for solar panels, and wiring for future technology upgrades. Any other thoughts?
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@narfcake cat 6 in every room even though things are leading to wireless huh? I think you're right, but that wouldn't have been my first thought. I think I'll do it
@luvche21 wired=Security+reliability. If you have a wired network its much harder to tap or leach off of. You can still put in APs for wireless but more of them at very low power, like properly set up crowded commercial venues do. Also you're not as much at the mercy of nearby neighbors putting in high power APs and squashing the available channels.
@luvche21 run extra cat6 to each jack, even if you don't finish them out now, run all the wires you can while it's cheap (while the walls are open and unfinished)! Also consider conduits if you don't wanna run wires now, they will make it much easier in the future.
@narfcake +1 what @thismyusername said. When I'm running drops I ALWAYS run at least two cables to each spot. Because you just never know what you might need there.
RE: Wifi vs. wired, CAT6 wired connections are nearly impervious to outside influences. If your network is set up properly, will give you the fastest, most reliable connection for devices that don't really benefit from a wireless connection (satellite receivers, smart TV's, gaming systems, HTPC's, etc). If it's a stationary device, what's the point of wifi? Why clutter the wifi bandwidth with devices that are better serviced with a big fat gigabit connection to the router?
Oh, and if you're a DIY kinda person, extra 220 outlets in the garage.
And if you have any friends or family with RV's, a 30A RV outlet is always nice. I had to run one when my folks spent the winter with me in their RV 2 years ago and it was a major PITA to retrofit.
@luvche21 I agree with network jacks minimum of 2 per run and I'd do them to different parts of the room. Depending on what kind of network and what kind of tv you are using, it will be awesome. I use a TiVo and would gladly give up most of my cable connections for cat6 wired to a closet. Punch down block would be awesome to save you time later but not 100% needed. In addition to network. Is say power in every closet. I use rope light or Christmas led lights to do ground lighting in closets. Makes it easier to find matching shoes or what not. Also outlets in cabinets can help sometimes if you decide to light up the cabinet later or now. Outlets are cheap before the walls are finished. More expensive later. Also if you have that large of a garage you could use it instead of a closet for your networking runs. Basically centralize it (like an office) put plenty of power there (own breaker probably) and cable and phone for Internet
@sohmageek @luvche21 It’s been a long while since I read the NEC, as it was done out of boredom, but receptacles in closets may be limited as to where they can be located. There are code requirements for the lighting in closets, that’s for certain.
Naturally, there are other workarounds that can be used too; “It’s not a closet, it’s a niche.” The electrical (sub)contractor ought to be able to clarify all this.
plenty of, closet space, closet space, closet space
@mfladd my first walk in closet too!
@luvche21 Congrats!!!
@CaptAmehrican wifi is slower and less reliable. I have a crapload of wifi devices, but important stuff is on wired network. Also you might need to extend your wifi coverage and that's easier if the wired network is accessible.
@medz i absolutely agree with the goat on this one. If i was building, id put my own network in it, definitely. I do this for a living, so I'd tell you straight up, do a wired network for your house, only use wireless where it literally cannot be avoided. Wireless makes me paranoid.
@medz Yepster; use WiFi for whatever, but be sure your home is future-proof for the speeds 4K video will require. At the very least, ensure your living room TV and your home storage NAS can wire directly into the network.
Oversize your breaker box for future expansion. Led lights and/or light fixtures. Into surround sound or music? Run stereo wires in the walls and ceiling.
@medz yes, forgot to mention I'm planning on speaker wire into the curlin ceiling, thanks for the reminder! Haven't thought about putting them in the walls though
@luvche21 Depending on the setup, surround sound often works best coming out of walls (ear level) instead of above you from the ceiling.
@medz agreed, but this would be for the great room, so we would be moving around anyway.
@luvche21 Also nice to place power outlets higher on the walls where you'll have TV's mounted to eliminate that fugly cable hanging down the wall.
Glory hole in every room. Or just don't add doorknobs. Either way.
Do NOT invite him over. Ever.
@ACraigL
@hallmike What am I going to do with all these housewarming muffins now?
@ACraigL I'm shocked it's not housewarming apple pie.
@hallmike
I just finished the process. The first thing you need is some research on the builder (if you haven't chosen one). While overall I'm happy with the house, the builder we use sucked so so bad. I just filed a complaint with the BBB yesterday. I wrote a 5 page review for them on facebook too, which caused them to disable all of them.
Outlets is my #1 regret of not getting enough of, especially given how cheap they were. Placing them in soffit for christmas lights etc would have been nice. Also for any security cameras (and cat6 for this as well).
Having them install LED light bulbs is also something you should do if you have high ceilings anywhere. We have a chandelier hanging about 25 feet, and I have no idea how I'm gonna change the bulbs when they go out.
It might be standard, but if you are doing a big garage, I'd probably put a side door to the yard on it if it's not included. If it is going to be used for a workshop as well, maybe a small utility sink.
Shelving, typically is something I'd not upgrade, as it seems to be overpriced. Heck, you might even be better off taking a credit on it and doing it yourself.
I would also highly recommend a rain shower head in addition to the standard wall one in the master bathroom.
Other stuff, if it applies: At least two outdoor hose spigots (one on opposite corners of the house). Any electric that may need to be ran outside (lit garden, lamp post etc). Water irrigation system is also probably cheaper done during the build process, and might make watering new sod a lot easier.
I'd also make sure that any bedroom that doesn't have a ceiling fan in it by default is at least braced/wired for it if you want to add one later on.
Ask to keep the extra scraps of carpet, paint, siding, flooring, caulk, grout etc as well.
I'm sure there's more. Good luck!
@lichme thanks, these are great tips, especially coming from someone who just went through it. I added basically everything you mentioned to mee MH list
@luvche21 Two other items I thought of. Depending on the layout of your kitchen, you may want to add pull out garbage bins inside a cabinet. We also had them pre-wire some outlets inside of the kitchen cabinets onto a switch in the kitchen so I could hook up some under cabinet lighting. It's a cosmetic thing, but it saved me a lot of work since I knew I wanted it.
Oh, we also had them install switched lights on our staircases too.
Not sure if you are finishing the basement or not, but we did, and it was super super cheap, and it included a 3/4 bathroom and a wet bar.
BTW, do you already have floor plans picked out, or are you designing from scratch?
@lichme we're going with a build that's already in progress, but it's really close to what we want for the layout.
Right now I'm planning on finishing the basement myself in the next 2 years so that we can get better upgrades right now.
What do you mean by switched lights for the staircases?
@luvche21 Just LED lights close the the actual steps of the stairs, controlled by a switch at either the top or bottom of the stairs. You could also have them be on a motion sensor, which is an easy enough DIY project.
One other easy thing to mention. If you are getting a fire place, I'd ask to make sure a blower is installed with it. Although it can be done afterwards, due to limited spacing, it's easier to have it done when the unit is installed.
@lichme ooh, I like the look of that, and can definitely do that when I finish the basement since that's where our only stairs are.
Take a sheet of cheap white foamcore, and paint a nice large swatch of the paint from every room and trims (and write which rooms!). Keep it with a small section of the baseboard, a piece of any floor tile, etc. The paint in cans will degrade just about the time you want to touch up a wall, but you can match the paint from the sample.
@OldCatLady good idea, thanks!
@luvche21 you could also paint the inside of power outlets to match the room to keep the sample in the actual room and easily accessible for when you want to grab it and go!
@sohmageek or both! We're planning on living in the house the next 60 years (... If we live that long...), so lots of chances to lose stuff like foam core
@OldCatLady Keep a can of your colors; most hardware stores mix to a formula which they print on a sticker placed right on the lid. I had a large hutch removed from my last house, revealing an unpainted patch of wall. The custom-mixed paint still in the can from a couple of years past was congealing and almost depleted anyway; I snapped a picture and showed the guy at Home Depot the pic. on my phone. Done and done; you can't see the transition.
Some already mentioned but
- Quality windows. The ones that hurt to buy, but they'll be efficient and last a long time.
- heated floors (hard surface floors) can make winter heating less expensive, and barefooting in the kitchen or bathroom much more comfortable.
- Any room with a center ceiling light fixture, that fixture should be braced and anchored to support a fan.
- Extra outlets outside. Someone mentioned soffits, thats good for decorating.
- If you put in LED or lights other than standard base types, buy spares too. LED strips, tube lights, etc, are changing rapidly and you'll want to make sure you can repair/replace burnouts without having to redo a light system. LED pot lights, same thing. The units change a lot and if you replace one in a few years it will be a different color temp or different brightness/size, so get a few spares when you buy them. Its just not like buying screw in bulbs any more.
@duodec ooh, haven't thought about heated floors yet, but I bet that's out of our price range.
Good to know about LEDs, I've never used those yet
@luvche21 if you go with a slab foundation please consider the heated floors, at least in areas you frequent... worth the money... if doing a crawlspace not such a big deal.
@luvche21 Not a specific recommendation, just to give an idea on pricing: Home Depot - Lowes
I believe you do not have to do the entire floor in a room. You can put in smaller mats in strategic areas under the tile by the tub/shower and in front of the vanity, for example. With not much floor area its a foot and personal comfort thing more than an area warming thing, but it still can be nice.
Another thought; towel warming rack, at least in your main/master bathroom. Its a towel bar on steroids and having a warm towel when you step out of the shower shivering after the previous user ran the water heater out... a warm towel is nice. Its a little luxury touch.
And another. If you are served with natural gas, consider a tankless water heater. You need to get the proper venting/exhaust put in to support one but depending on your hot water usage you'll either save money or have endless hot water ;)
@duodec great suggestions, and I really hope the tankless is within our budget. I'll have to look more into heated floors, my wife would love me for it :)
Run wiring to windows & doors for future security system, maybe anywhere you may want a camera also.
Right before the drywall goes up, snap pictures of the walls. That will help remind you where the wiring & plumbing is.
Insulate hot & cold water lines inside the house. The cold lines will sweat & hot lines need to stay hot.
@daveinwarsh Ooh plus plus! Lots of pics of the open walls!
@daveinwarsh Another 'extra' that my wife loves is our built-in vacuum system. It was maybe $500 or so 20 yrs ago, but it has worked perfect. It blows all that stinky vacuum cleaner exhaust air outside & the bag lasts 3 to 6 months!
As others have mentioned, enough outside faucets & outlets on the house are a must. Also maybe a few yard faucets (freezeproof) are really nice to have.
Pics and video!
@haydesigner No video - don’t bother. You cannot hand a tape to a contractor and have him watch it in order to find your sewer stack, or what have you.
@G1 Both the pics and the video would more for the owner than anyone else. And video would give one a much stronger idea of where something is, and how it exists/where it goes in a 3D spacial orientation.
@haydesigner I.m not saying you’re wrong, but we built abt 13 yrs ago. I have something like 3 hrs of tape. Not sure how many hrs we have, since I’ve never seen it. I have looked at our 200 or so pictures OFTEN.
I thought the same way as you, even after the foreman told me not to bother.
Maybe I’ll watch the tapes someday…
But that’s just me.
@daveinwarsh Absolutely yes on the pics! My parents built a house 20 years ago, and those pics have been a lifesaver MANY times over. Buy a cheap album for the pics and keep it handy. And have the date stamp on if possible.
Think where the laundry is going to be. I grew up with laundry chutes - loved that. Missed it tremendously when I was hauling laundry up and down stairs. Also have a place to hang clothes by the dryer. And a laundry sink that is deep. Useful for all sorts of crap besides laundry.
Look in Ikea and see the pull out drawers that are in the kitchen that are where the baseboard is. Done right you don't know they are there and you can hide stuff.
Think about where the microwave goes. I prefer having some counter space in front of it so when pulling out hot things I can drag them on to the countertop (when not using a hot pad) and not worry about dropping them. Also plan the fridge with respect to space height/width so that if you plan to get a bigger fridge when you have kids you have the width and height for it. Might be worth not having it sandwiched in somewhere.
Ability to lock the pantry if you end up having kids who decide to invite friends over after school while you are at work and eat you out of house and home.
Sliding closet doors and kids are not a good mix
Porches with beams in the right place for porch swings.
Light switches in the right places so you aren't cursing in the dark. Enough outside lights that if you aren't near a streetlight you have motion detectors that will light the path (and a way to turn - from inside - that off so that at 3am a possum or coon doesn't set them off).
The problem with a parent bedroom at the other end of the house is teens who sneak out.
Something by the door you will use the most that is planned so muddy/snowy boots, wet umbrellas, etc. can be parked without being in the way nor getting carpet filthy. Because when you have kids if you don't have a convenient place to stash that stuff fairly immediately that crap will end up on the floor, furniture in the closest room.
A driveway that can handle cars in it and kids playing basketball, riding bikes around (little kids)...Shuffling cars all the time is a pain in the rear.
If the postman doesn't deliver the mail at the door, put the mailbox out of the way of neighbors who will back into it, kids who drive down the street in pickup trucks with baseball bats can't break it, and make sure if the postman doesn't shut the front of it, rain won't drain into it. Yes learned all that the hard way.
A garage big enough to stash bikes, trash cans and lawnmowers without trashing the cars.
Glass shower doors that slide are a pain in the rear to keep clean (water collects in the track and then you get mold.
If you have cats plan for places for cat boxes away from showers, etc.
Enough storage in the bathroom that if you end up with girls who spend their teen years believing a girl can never own too much makeup, there is a place to stash it.
Marble stains. Easily.
Think about the placement of heat and A/C openings with respect to furniture placement. If they are going to be overhead think about what they will blow on and whether or not that will drive you crazy.
Think about street flooding that can spread into yards. Design around that.
Think about outlets and the stairs (if you have them) with respect to vacuuming.
Think where the laundry is with respect to the dryer vent. The shorter it is the better (and easier to clean).
Do not plant trees too close to the house or water/sewer lines. The roots of trees spread as far as the branches will. Think about how big those trees will be in 30 years. Also trees that bend in the wind rather than break and have deep roots would be a better choice. Some trees are incredibly messy. Pine trees are a royal pain in the ass. Think about what the trees will shed and how often.
No popcorn ceilings. When they get wet they fall off or are older they get filthy and you'd be painting over dust bunnies that are hard to clean first.
@Kidsandliz PS if you use pressed wood baseboard paint all sides before you install them. Then if water leaks to the back they won't swell.
@Kidsandliz awesome list, thank you so much!
We just built and here are some of our things we really like.
We recessed the wall behind the fridge so it can sit back further and not stick way out or sacrifice fridge size.
We did a pantry style cabinet in the laundry room that is super handy for storing mops, brooms, the ironing board, and step ladder.
Also insulated the garage walls and sheet rocked it. We also did insulation on a decent amount of our interior walls for sound dampening.
Like others said cat6 to all the rooms. We also did soft close drawers and cabinets.
One last thing and it's really random but totally awesome, get elongated toilets.
It sounds like you are a diy'er don't be afraid to ask the builder if there are certain things you want to do yourself. I was able to do all my cat6, coax, garage insulation and interior sound insulation for significantly less than what the builder wanted.
I'm in the process of emptying my mother's house for sale. We came home and are giving thousands of dollars worth of stuff to Goodwill. No matter what your significant other says, keep the contents of the house to a minimum.
@timgove
Track down the book with a title something like "Let your House do the Housework" by Don Aslett. It's an older book but worth finding. It has lots of suggestions that are simple to implement at your stage but make a big difference long term. For example -- install light fixtures that open downward so you never have to climb on a ladder or stool to empty dead bugs from the globes." Some of the ideas are a bit dated, but will shift your creativity toward current solutions.
If you think you might want supplemental solar or wind power, consider what you can do now to make that easier later.
Sump pump in the basement. If the house is in an area prone to flooding, you might not ever want to fully finish the basement. Have a backflow inhibitor (or whatever they're called) installed. Also have plugs/stoppers that fit any drains you might have in the basement including the hole in the floor for the toilet just in case. Oh, and don't forget the Leakfrogs or their equivalent!
@msklzannie if only meh sold leakfrogs...
@luvche21 I pm’ed you on woot.
@msklzannie wow, that took me forever to find where my pm’s are on woot, so I finally wrote back! Thanks!
@luvche21 pm’ed you back
@msklzannie Thank you! Do you mind if I post a picture and give you proper credit once it arrives?
@msklzannie I second this - and one with battery backup might not be a bad idea. They’re a bit spendy, but cheaper than a profoundly flooded basement could turn out to be.
@luvche21 That’s up to you.
Don't forget extra deep window sills and catwalks and such.
This one is much more understated:
http://www.moderncat.net/2010/03/17/this-brooklyn-moderncat-paradise-could-be-yours/
@ceagee haha, that would be awesome!
@ceagee That was very cool!
I didn’t see it mentioned anywhere - I wish I had low-voltage wire going everywhere.
It was a pain in the ass to run wire behind the kitchen cabinets for 12V supply to my under-cabinet led lights.
Also, someday, I would like to add solar, wind, other renewable energy to the house, and not mess with inverters and such.
But that’s just me.
@G1 I’m definitely planning on getting the wiring in for solar even though I won’t have that installed for a few years.
@G1 low voltage wire is generally cat 5/6. I.E. that thing everyone has been recommending running everywhere. See POE.
Also 120V wiring for under cabinet lighting has been recommended which is more practical. The transformer can easily be done in a junction box
@unksol 12V or 120V?
DC electricity is the new AC, but it might be too early to go that route. Double up on your window cost based on your current plan - you can’t go wrong with good windows.
@DMlivezey
Lot’s of good tips here. One thing I did was a walk through with video right before the drywall went up. Just to get video documentation on where all wires, pipes, vents, etc were located behind the walls for future reference.
All the local firefighters I know say not to put on a steel roof. It makes it more difficult to attack a fire.
@msklzannie Fire sprinklers are mandatory in a lot of new construction, making this a lesser issue. Generally, the more fire resistant the construction is, the better off one is; in the event of a fire, the area affected is contained.
@msklzannie Actually a friend of my parents did fire investigation and he said aluminum and vinyl siding were not very good choices either.
If you’re doing any cement (patio, outdoor steps, etc) find a quiet corner and have the family press their hands into it. A great little memento and personalization.
The cat 6 installation has been well covered here, the only point not mentioned (I believe) is reduced latency of wired versus wired connections. Since you’re building, you could consider a network cabinet for all the cat 6 wire, organization of network equipment alone makes these things awesome.
Just to expand on the insulation, the more the better. My grandfather built his house when he owned his construction company and the man insulated everything in the walls and basement with a minimum of R30-40 in the 1970’s; everyone thought he was nuts but their heating and air conditioning costs are a joke ($45/month in the snow belt for a 2500+ sqft house). Also consider running separate heating and air conditioning ducts; it makes your air conditioning MUCH more efficient and allows you to use a smaller blower for your HVAC.
If you ever plan on having an electric car, a 220V line in your garage would be much cheaper to add now. Also check your amperage of your main electrical box (150A is a minimum now, 200A give breathing room).
Make sure that the garage and the kitchen are on the same level and close to each other. I’ve lived in a split level house with the garage on the bottom level and the kitchen on the opposite end of the house and up a flight of stairs. I don’t even want to know how many gallons of milk I’ve lugged up the stairs in the last 30 years!
Also: From someone who also intends to stay in my house til the bitter end: Make sure all doors are wide enough for a wheelchair, make sure the master bedroom is on the ground floor, try to have enough room around the kitchen cabinets and the living room for a wheelchair/walker. Have a bathroom you could use/modify if you were mobility impaired. And a cheap but oh-so-handy-later-on option: If you have a 2 story, have a closet on the top floor directly above a closet on the 1st floor that could be easily modified for an elevator.
Not just suggestions for the elderly. Over the space of a life time lots of folks live through temporary and not so temporary mobility issues.
To help keep your house new and easy to clean, NEVER use abrasives on any smooth surface. Abrasives make tiny grooves that collect dirt, scum, etc. Microbes love to grow in those little grooves. Think of sinks, toilets, showers (seal grout), granite. Mix half dish detergent and half hot vinegar, store in spray bottle, and use that to spray onto shower walls when finished showering. Let spray dry there. Wipe the walls 4 or 5 times a month with a towel instead. Spray sinks and wipe with a rag. Brush toilet bowl for 10 seconds daily and nothing else will be needed.