20 minutes into the day and it sucks ass. First I somehow missed clicking the meh button yesterday so that means my consecutive streak of 360 some odd days was broken, and then I get on here at like quarter after midnight and all the seats are gone. So we’re starting off on a real shitty note
@CatFriend@crazycarl864 The water pressure is what extends the sprayer from behind its shield. If there are two nozzles, it may be that one is the “master blaster” and the other is for lady parts (more forward-facing) and “fun mode”.
@crazycarl864 I have this company’s next-level better model, which appears to be identical except mine’s controls are remote. Wooo. I forget what I paid for it during a deal of the day at Home Depot. I think it was a little under $200.
The nozzle does retract after each use and it actually pre/post washes itself while in the retracted position. (Just a water spray) You can also have the wand extend out for cleaning, which you will want to do every time you clean your normal toilet bowl.
I think it is crazy that mine had in the instructions to not use harsh chemicals on it and only warm soapy water. Um, a place that gets covered in shit can’t be sprayed with a disenfectant? I called the company and they say Method, Meyers, etc. all fine, just no bleaches. My seat has two little spots on it that are just defects in the plastic that appeared over years of use.
I don’t regret my purchase at all, and I am sure this would be no exception. You will not go back to without.
@avmercenary@stolicat@zhicks1987 I was mostly just determined to get one that’s not ‘comfort height’ aka too high to be comfortable. I’m a fan of the squatty-potty style footrests and having a taller toilet would be counter productive. If they made them with elongated bowls and without the extra height I would’ve gotten it but selection was limited.
@mike808 Aye, the stern is fer poopin’, but the good spray for cleanin’ yer taint is at the bow, unless ye drive yer ship backwards, ye scallywag. Now get to swabbin’ that poop deck afore i send ye ta meet Davy Jones!
@sglickenhaus I have a different, but identical (water and electrical) requirements, model from this company and I can say no problem at all if you have ever changed a sink faucet. Assuming you have an outlet near the toilet, of course, electrical is another beast.
If your toilet is up to code, it will have a shutoff valve accessible to you from in the bathroom. Look for it on the floor/wall where the hose comes from. Turn it 90* to the right. Flush your toilet. Listen to hear for the tank refilling. If it isn’t your water is off. Still place some towels or a bucket underneath because there is some residual water in the hose. Unscrew from your tank. It comes with a hose that goes to the water tank in the bidet and a spliter that will attach where you just disconnected the hose from the toilet tank. Attach the original supply hose, the new, thinner bidet tank hose, turn back on your water. Look for leaks. Plug in. Enjoy.
You’ll need an adjustable wrench or channel-lock or slip-joint pliers to deal with the plumbing and nuts to mount the thing, plus a screwdriver or two. It took me about 20 minutes, IIRC.
And it is definitely worth it… while I pretty much never use the blow-dry feature of mine, I was able to get through the first 15 months of the pandemic with only one warehouse-sized package of toilet paper.
Years ago, a friend was over and somehow the topic of bidets came up and I was secretly hoping he’d STFU since I didn’t want another house project, but he kept talking, my wife said she’d always wanted one, and a few days later, I was installing a $40ish (unheated-water) one from Bez-mart. It was fantastic. I typically use a bathroom on the other side of the house (separate bathrooms, the secret to a long marriage), so I bought another for “my” bathroom which tapped into the cold and hot water supplies and it was even more fantastic. When we eventually remodeled both bathrooms, we replaced our old toilets with actual bidet toilets (vs. these bidet accessories) and have never looked back. (haha) I remember thinking these were stupid until I read something which said that if a bird pooped on your hand, would you just wipe it off with a paper napkin and call it a day? Of course not. You’d try to wash it off as thoroughly as possible with at least water, so I was sold. Thank you for listening to my TErDx Talk.
I really want to buy one of these but I do not have a GFCI outlet nearby the toilet. I am not going to run an extension cord all the way from the wall on the other side of the sink either. What I really need to do is a small remodel of the bathroom and have a GFCI installed so I have more options of Bidets to buy in the future.
I bought one of the cheaper ones that do not require electricity when they were offered here last time. It eventually developed a small leak from a crack in the plastic where the top and bottom molds are glued together. I threw it away and need to get a replacement as soon as possible. But right now, I can only use the non-electrical versions.
@Euniceandrich Thanks for the suggestion but I’ll wait for a better model. In the meantime, I bought a manual squeeze bottle from aliexpress which sort of works but is definitely lacking the water pressure. Once I get the GFCI installed, I’ll be back to buy a more professional unit.
@cengland0 You probably do not need to remodel to install a GFCI outlet. Many people can do it by following the instructions that come with it. Check the instructions (available on line) and at worst an electrician can do it, likely without rewiring anything.
@Euniceandrich@Tripod2 Or you can swap out your circuit breaker for a GFCI verson and protect the entire run. Most houses built these days do it that way. I’d recommend getting an electrician to swap out your circuit breakers to GFCI, though. Just the bathrooms and the kitchen runs.
@andyw@cengland0 Whether a GFCI can be easily installed in a bathroom is largely a function of the age of the structure. The older the house, the more difficult it often becomes. In the case of mine (built in 1959, and wired somewhat deficient even for that day) it’s a right royal pain to add a genuine grounding circuit to the bathroom in the back of the house. GFCI breakers for my panel simply do not exist, so that’s a no-go at the start.
Almost none of the sockets anywhere in the house are wired with 14/3; outside of the kitchen and the laundry room, it’s nearly all 14/2 or even 16/2 in a few instances. For that bathroom I mentioned, the attic access is virtually nil, so fishing the lead up through the wall in the absence of conduit is No Fun At All. And the wall where one would most like to have a box is full of pocket sliding door. The wall over the vanity is entirely plate glass mirror to six feet above the floor. There was one three-prong socket in the bathroom already, above that mirror in the light fixture (and switched via the same circuit as the light, dammit), but as was not unusual in those days, the “ground” was actually wired to the neutral - in a structure that has three-phase supply. At some point, someone had tried to add a true ground for the circuits in the kitchen by connecting the ground lugs in the sockets to the water pipes - and then the water supply line coming in from the meter sprang a leak, and the pipe coming up to the service valve got replaced by PVC.
@andyw Is remodel the right word? Maybe not. But to run a wire behind the wall is difficult unless you remove the sheetrock and then drill holes in the 2x4s to run the electrical wire from the current electrical box on the other side of the bathroom.
I could probably tap into electricity going through the on the other side of the bathroom wall which has a hallway and some electrical outlets so it must have a run in that wall somewhere. However, I don’t want to have a circuit breaker labeled for a dining room or livingroom turn off my toilet GFCI.
Suppose I could just dig a trench in the sheetrock to run armored cable and then spackle it up when I’m done but I’m not the kind of person to do a half-assed job so I’ll do it the proper and professional way even though it’s the most time consuming. Only problem is that I haven’t been motivated to do much lately so I’m not sure it will get done before I die of old age.
@cengland0 Some projects are bigger than they seem, until yo plan it, as you are doing. Some are bigger than they seem after you start them, even if you planned it! I’ve got lots of those in my head that may not make it before my best by date!
@blaineg@cengland0@werehatrack I’ve had remnants of knob and tube, but no active wires on them. I have not seen fabric insulation lately. In this and my previous house there were gas pipes left in the walls (for lighting, not the kitchen) as well as many pipes sticking out where there were fixtures. There was no gas in them. I had to cut one away to hang a ceiling fan.
@andyw@blaineg@cengland0@werehatrack About old houses, I have a house built 1926, and still has some knob-and-tube IN USE with fabric covered wires. Yeah, been meaning to get to that.
The kitchen was rewired long ago before I bought it, with grounded 20A outlets. (but no GFCIs yet). But you may be surprised to learn that you CAN put GFCIs on ungrounded circuits! They still provide some protection because they can detect a difference in current flowing through one wire and NOT coming back in the other. (i.e. maybe it’s going through your foot onto a wet cement floor — or in the case if a bidet seat I don’t want to imagine what it’s flowing through).
To use a GFCI without a ground, you also are supposed to affix a “No Equipment Ground” little sticker that comes in most retail GFCI boxes. And don’t use GFCI pass-through, which IMHO is more trouble than it’s worth anyway.
I own a remote controlled model from BioBidet and absolutely love it. It has the same functions. The heated air drying is by far my least used feature. With any of these models, there will be a short second before the heated water reaches its full temperature, but still a nice feature. The heated seat is definitely something I enjoy more than I thought I needed, and as a guy, the light comes in surprisingly useful. I do not like how the brightness cannot be adjusted on mine.
I have left some comments to others, I very much recommend this company’s product as I have enjoyed mine for many years of daily use. If you have an electrical outlet nearby, and are on the fence, this is a great price for a lot of features to see what all the hype about these things is about.
I don’t own this model so I can’t really rate it, but I do have a bidet and highly recommend it if you can swing the price. I can’t keep my youngest out of my bathroom because they will only go on the heated seat bidet.
After a trip to Hawaii in which we got a really really nice suite, the rooms bathrooms had these bidets. Let’s just say the wife insisted upon the need and so the project commenced. The tough part was running the power, who again has an outlet under their toilet? Now two of our bathrooms have them and one had to be replaced already after 4 years. Not all bidets are the same BTW , get the Japanese built ones because for some reason the Japanese really really like bidets and we are playing catch up.
@manual I first encountered a full bidet toilet (built as part of toilet, not an add-on seat) at a nice business hotel in Tokyo about 30 years ago. (Hotel Paid by work luckily, they were expensive even then). Yes the toilet was a new discovery and very nice — I realized how “caveman” we are in the U.S.
I got a different BioBidet, the 6800 model, which seems to have the same features as this one, but with a wall-mounted remote rather than a side panel.
It’s been great, always leaves me feeling nice and clean and my wife loves the seat warmer function. Only downside is that I’ve had to replace the seat twice–once under warranty, once at my own expense–because the heater stops working.
@TexasDex I was happy with the one attached to the side — can’t lose the remote, or have the batteries go dead. On the other hand, some comments reminded me that for men with poor aim, it means the controls are in a position for “splash damage” — especially if you have boys, or perhaps men who shop too much in casemates.com. So the remote control on the wall might be better.
EDIT or perhaps for a prank you could take the remote to the next room, and when someone in the house tries to use the toilet. you could press a bunch of buttons and give them a surprise!