@Thumperchick Not only did I do a hard refresh, I loaded it in a new browser tab too. Still didn’t work.
Turned out that it was Ghostery – a chrome add-on that I use that prevented it from working.
I put an exception for meh to ignore the plugin and it worked. That has never been a problem in the past so your site must have some weird tracker that is being blocked by the ghostery addon that wasn’t blocked before.
600mAH is a useless rating. It should show wattage hours instead. We don’t know what voltage that 600mAh is rated at. Could be the 4.2V of a single 18650 battery or was it at the 5V output or is it a combination of all the batteries in series? Who knows?!?!?!? That’s why you should list capacity in watt-hours instead of mAH.
@cengland0 It’s probably a single 600mAh Li-Ion cell with a (nominal) 3.7 V output, which gives you around 2.2 W-H. (At the battery terminals. Anywhere else will be a smaller and less impressive number for the marketing department.)
However you measure it 600 mAh is pretty sad and I wonder if there’s room for a bigger battery.
@awk I didn’t even think about putting batteries inside the case. I was going to use these as 18650 battery chargers, thus the battery holder will be on the outside of the case. Otherwise, how will you get the charged battery out of the charger?
@hamjudo I wouldn’t use these as chargers. First, the charge rate would probably be very slow. Second, you’d have to buy an 18650 battery holder and that might cost $1 direct from China. That’s already 20% of the purchase price.
It would be nice to see if there’s room inside for additional batteries or at least replace the existing one with a higher capacity one. It does put out 2.1A which makes it a viable battery pack for charging phones.
@awk I assumed he intended bring the charge wires out of the case.
(I recall doing that with clock radios decades ago so I could use a better sounding speaker or at least better locate the speaker. Longgg before Bluetooth or anything other then radios/walkietalkies/ TVs were “wireless”)
Even if it wasn’t a direct money saver it is a cool hack that adds yet another function to this already multifunction device.
@RedOak@awk@cengland0 I bought the battery holders with wires rather than the battery holders designed to be soldered into a PCB board. The PCB board version was cheaper, but then I would have to drill more holes, and soldering next to plastic is fiddly. I am reasonably confident that the pins on the PCB version would be more than long enough to reach through holes drilled in the case.
On the other hand, I am not so confident that the original battery leads would reach all of the way to my chosen holder mounting place. This means I would have to solder on extensions. Potentially soldering twice as many connections ups the opportunity cost.
For those who don’t like following ebay links, the holders I got were 10 for $2.54, which works out to 40 for $10.06 (after my $0.10 in eBay bucks, eBay’s kickback scheme). So they are a wee tiny fraction of a penny over a quarter each.
I used to add headphone jacks to TVs.
There are several places in my home and garage that would benefit from motion activated lights. The cat I stepped on a few days ago is now painfully aware of how poorly us humans see in the dark.
Having the batteries live in the chargers makes it easy to remember where I left them.
@RedOak@awk@cengland0 I am not deaf or even hard of hearing, so I don’t want the thing screaming at me when it hears a smoke detector go off. Unless there is a switch to disable it, I am going remove the microphone.
Thought of Grannie, had to buy it. For those who sleep with headphones and other aural apperati, or those who remove their hearing aids or sleep with earplugs the flashing lights (and a sonic boom) might be a lifesaver. I hope it won’t freak out the dog.
@KaRaS A little creative work - mount them higher than the dog. You loose the ease of sticking it in the outlet. But, . . . I have a battery motion detector nightlight sitting on a bookshelf about head high for me. I’m thinking about these as there are some places where sleep wouldn’t be bothered by the dogs setting off the light.
@candiedisilvio1 After your ? hit return & then do your /buy command. I’m sure you probably already know how but I didn’t want you to think you bought them and never receive them-unless you’re having second thoughts
According to the seller on Amazon: We are pulling this product due to several problems that have been reported. Light was too bright for a night light. Sensor did not work until very close to unit. Unit died within 60 days of use. Difficult to understand instructions.
Was a very good idea but not very well engineered. Do not know of another device with the features hope they redesign and come back with another product to replace this one.
By SELLER on August 29, 2017
Oddly enough, I just busted the night light from my daughter’s room two days ago while putting up some shelves. I had one leaning against the wall, it fell, and smashed the light. If I didn’t already buy a 6 pack yesterday, I might have gotten this.
I knee-jerked meh-buttoned it thinking it was only USB powered. I have enough USB powered devices and it’s rocket science being sure they are always charged up.
I share a 4 bedroom house in East Hollywood and leaving my abode for a few days makes me wish I had a motion detecting security cam just in case but I think they’re out of my price range This will do! BUT one question please: if you set it to motion activated and leave, how the heck do you return and deactivate it without setting it off? I mean … any clues? maybe i can sell 2 of them and recoop and save for a good security cam with night vision effect to make whoever look super guilty. (sorry for the long post )
@ignoramus The reality is you usually set it off when you walk up to it to deactivate it, and then you turn it off. This is more like “scare off people / animals that weren’t expecting it” rather than a full-fledged alarm system.
@donrull if Meh didn’t occasionally throw in a can’t resist item (coincidentally at least once a month) then I’d likely cancel after a few months of dry. We get a hell of a lot more measurable benefit from the $100 Prime fee than this $60 Meh fee.
Trying to figure out what the difficult to measure benefits of VMP are… (it’s been a long time since that ‘free’ t-shirt.)
interesting note in amazon Q&A for this product just published today…
Question: Is it universal voltage or 110 only?
Answer: We are pulling this product due to several problems that have been reported. Light was too bright for a night light. Sensor did not work until very close to unit. Unit died within 60 days of use. Difficult to understand instructions.
Was a very good idea but not very well engineered. Do not know of another device with the features hope they redesign and come back with another product to replace this one. see less
By Strange Man SELLER on August 29, 2017
@PooltoyWolf The Mouse Kingdom huh? When mine come in, I’ll ping you here, unless you have a Woot login so we can PM? We can figure out economical shipping…I like Priority Mail, but that is more than the price of the thing.
@PooltoyWolf Not really break anything, but it’s up to you. During the exchanges, we posted secret words so the internet trolls couldn’t fake an identity. Hmm. I’ll have to try to remember how that worked. We have some time to figure that out.
@fastharry The hurricane has really messed with the slow delivery process. My package traveled more than half way on it’s first day with FedEx. Now that it is far from the bad weather zone, I’m sure it will go back to the more traditional extreme spiral path.
Usually they spend 3 days traveling to a place a hundred miles to the north and hundreds of miles to the west of us, then they take 2 days to travel back south around lake Michigan and east from Chicago, to pass within a couple of miles of my house before taking another 2 days to reach my front porch.
I just got my 4 pack of these. NONE of them work. Two of them make a noise as if they are about to explode when I plug them in. I tried all modes (nightlight, motion, security). Complete fail. How do I get my money back? I don’t want a Sharpie this time.
Update: Now they all are making the noise. I’m leaving them plugged in in “off” mode so the noise goes away. My hope is that the noise is a “I need to be charged” sound? Maybe they don’t work unless charged, even though they are plugged into an outlet? Seems dumb, but this is Meh.
Update #2: My suspicion was right. These things need to be plugged in for at least 15 minutes before they start working–and looks like longer than that to achieve full brightness. Runs completely off the battery, not the AC outlet. Forgive me Meh, for jumping the gun. I should have known it was just a poorly designed product. Why else would you sell it!
I remain alone with this infernal box. Although I do not understand its language, it still commands me. I bring it gifts: bits of wire, screws. Nothing seems to calm its rage. I brought a small flashlight with hopes of friendship. But the sound continues, filling my ears and clawing at my soul.
I learn of others. Three others, lying in wait, somewhere in the darkness. I can only imagine the terror they will bring me.
I stay crouched motionless in the darkest corner, hoping to remain out of sensor reach and not anger it further.
@awk I just tested my smoke detector. Out of the 4 MAX lights, only 1 of them sensed the noise and starting mocking my smoke alarm in a jealous tantrum. It was actually the light I had plugged in farthest away from the alarm. I guess that’s… good?
@awk THANK YOU. Was about to see how far I could throw these things. Figured the battery was sitting dead for too long to recharge. At least I know to just have patience and then see if they blink or fail to repeat the smoke alarm noise. I guess if they can just work as emergency lighting I will be happy enough
@bgiese5000 They are certainly not as advertised, “Simply plug it in!” but, with enough hassling around you can eventually get them to do all the things that are listed on the box. The thing that annoys me the most are they are about 1/8th of an inch too big to easily be able to allow most plugs to fit next to them–so, essentially, they hog up two outlets.
Update: I called the 800 number. After the lady asked me my phone number “in case we get disconnected”, she repeated it back to me correctly. I then proceeded to explain that 3 out of my 4 night lights blinked non-stop after “simply plugging it in”. Silence… Call was disconnected. It’s been 10 minutes. Still waiting for that call back.
This is a response by the Amazon seller of this: “We are pulling this product due to several problems that have been reported. Light was too bright for a night light. Sensor did not work until very close to unit. Unit died within 60 days of use. Difficult to understand instructions.”
An impressive 12-minute reply from the MAX customer support email, directly from their COO:
“In certain lighting conditions, typically dusk and dawn, the unit detects its own light which pushes it above the threshold set for turning the light off. When it turns off the ambient light drops below the threshold and the nightlight turns on again. It is usually possible to adjust the light brightness to find a “sweet spot” where the unit is not affected by its own light output and does not blink. I hope this helps you understand why it’s blinking and hopefully helps you find a setting that works better for you.”
Turns out this guy was on to something. Through a lot of messing around with this contraption, I finally figured out a somewhat reliable method to dim it. The manual says to “Press and hold down the reset button to Increase or Decrease brightness in any Mode”. #FAKENEWS The ACTUAL way to make this work somewhat consistently is to do this:
Unplug from wall
Click the reset button until it cycles through the flashlight and then back to the front light.
Now hold down the reset button until the dimness changes. Be careful, if it gets too bright, it may freak out and go into blink mode again. Just restart the process.
I was able to get all four of my lights dimmed enough to where they won’t turn themselves off after turning themselves on. Geesh. These thing are like my wife.
The light sensor is totally inside the case, facing a light pipe that is mostly inside the case. Neither has any opaque shielding to limit where the light can come from.
Some of my units don’t see their own glow. So I think that the shielding behind the light emitters is good enough if everything is put together just right, and the unit has not been dropped, twisted, or exposed to too many temperature cycles.
@Barney Thanks, but I have quite a few trash cans so it won’t take me very long to look for one. I can probably wait right up until I just about need one before I start looking. (Should we sell trash cans?)
@jsdoman The sound is merely a metaphor for our own mortality. Loud and confusing … and then suddenly it will end, and no one will remember or care. Later, the sun will swallow the earth. All of this is normal. Don’t fight it. Embrace it and draw upon its dark power.
Cricket sounds? Per the manufacturer, leave them plug in. This is a sound that the units make when the battery is discharged. I left mine plugged in, in the off position, and after about an hour turn them on and they do not make the sound.
So close … so very close. They almost made it - but are now sitting somewhere between Orlando & our south Sarasota post office. They would have been a great asset to have gotten in time to charge them for use during Irma, as she steamrolls over us tonight - but will sadly now be relegated to collecting dust until we have our power restored sometime post storm. Just informed that I-75 will be shut down at 3:00 p.m. today - time to hang on to our asses & hunker down.
What a journey! I put 6/12 back in the box and left 6 plugged in per the manufacturer. The cricket sounds went away. This morning 1/6 is completely dead. No cricket sounds, no charging lights, NADA. I guess I better check the other 6. I also will need to check functionality as I suspect they are not working like they are supposed to either…
@donrull Try charging the dead one using the micro USB port. I have 1 that also won’t charge at all using AC. Another one seems to charge ok, but when set to motion only, it also sounds the alarm, which relegates it to fulltime nightlight duty. All in all, only 2 of my 4 lights actually work 100% like they’re supposed to. Not great, but it could be worse I suppose.
The buzzing was so loud and insistent that it threw itself out of the wall outlet. Thank goodness. Turned it off because it was the only way to stay sane. Hoping everyone’s words of support here mean that in a couple of hours I can turn it on. So far I have seen no sign of light. Only the buzzing.
The charging worked, they turn on now. I still need to figure out how to dim them, cause this is crazy bright. Looking forward to using the instructions posted above. It really seems like it shouldn’t be this hard! Anyone else get an incredibly obnoxious LOUD beep when changing between modes?
Geeez MEH, WTF is your meaning in life…to go out of business in the fastest pace possible…I purchased four, count 'em 4 of these pieces of shiite…between the noise and half of them not working at all… a great deal just turned me sour to MEH!
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone here. You guys always figure out how to make things work. Getting prepped to ride out Irma, I plugged these suckers in so if I lose power for any length of time, I can at least keep my phone charged. Not that the towers will be working, but maybe I can play Best Fiends Forever in the dark for a bit longer. I, of course, got the angry grumbling, so I hopped on here to find out what it was. Y’all are awesome!!!
I removed the rubber nubs as suggested by @narfcake
This exposed 4 screw heads. It took me a bit to find a long thin screwdriver that could reach to them.
The screws were in pretty tight, so I used a pair of pliers to get the screwdriver started.
The circular thing at the bottom center of the image is the lens off of the PIR motion sensor.
The oddly shaped white plastic thing to the right of the nubs and screws is a light pipe. When it is in the correct place, it pipes the light from an LED on the circuit board behind the silvery cone to the outside of the case. There are two LEDs. Each one as a light pipe. The other light pipe is to the left of the silvery cone. It is offset by a few mm from its installed location to make it easier to see. Normally it would be touching the face of an LED.
They are standard 14x18 cafeteria trays. We couldn’t find any affordable used ones, so we bought enough new ones at one time, so the shipping wasn’t a killer.
I work on a project on a tray. When I need the work space for something else, I put the tray in the rack. Later on, I can grab the tray and restart where I left off.
The spray paint on the rack is from Home Depot’s price marking system for selling damaged and left over lumber. Since I have never seen that kind of T-slot for sale there, I assume it came from a store display that they tore down.
My boss uses cafeteria racks that were thrown out when the University remodeled a dorm.
Love these. Can’t believe how inexpensive they were. They work like a charm. Often, I or my boys, get up in the middle of the night. Now, we never have to turn on a light! One of the best meh buys I’ve ever made!
@Helot Yup, in my batch of 4, 2 will go off randomly in a completely quiet room regardless of which position the switch is in, so I can’t even use them as basic nightlights. Of the remaining 2, 1 will only charge via USB. Luckily, the last one still seems to work normally and they all seem to work as flashlights when unplugged. I’m probably going to cut the mic wire on one of these to see if it’ll stop the alarm, as covering it with tape doesn’t work.
@thismyusername Yeah, the response from meh support was to post here and see if any of the troubleshooting on the forums helped. I’ll look into mfg warranty depending on reply from meh, though I bet it’s not worthwhile unless shipping is covered. Cutting the mic wire seems an option worth exploring though. Curious to hear if that works out.
@thismyusername At this point, I’m not holding my breath on either options given the responses others have received. Also, Meh has made good on several past disappointments and this one is minor in comparison so I’m willing to let it slide.
@Odysseus1001 The problem with cutting only the speaker wire is when the alarm is triggered, the main LEDs also light up until reset. Cutting the mic “should” stop both. I did take the non charging one apart and found a leaking capacitor on the power board, probably why it won’t charge on AC, but didn’t have a replacement handy so I put it back together. I’ll wait until I get the proper part before opening it again and try disabling the mic.
@kuoh I cut the speaker wire, and the result was exactly as you predicted. The noise went away, but the main LEDs light up which is fine if you want maximum brightness but (a) it doesn’t turn off when other lights come on and (b) it’s unreliable for a motion light or a light where you want it to be dimmer. So it’s an improvement but not a fix.
That said, I’m not sure cutting the mic will stop anything, unless we think the mic itself is malfunctioning. I suspect something on the logic board is creating the false positive, and therefore cutting the mic won’t help.
If anyone tries cutting the mic and it works, I’d love to hear that. Thanks!
@Odysseus1001 I’m guessing it’s the smoke detector detector functionality that’s at fault, so cutting the mic should remove all input. If it’s still being triggered by rf noise, then it could be bad filtering capacitors. In any case, the mic wire is the easiest mod to test, as I was never planning to rely on that feature anyway.
@kuoh my guess is that leaving the microphone inputs floating would make it even more susceptible to electromagnetic interference. It is possible that the microphone has a broken lead, which makes it an antenna rather than a microphone.
It would make it deaf to sound.
If these things had any value, I would say connect the leads with resistors to ground. Since they have no value, just short them to ground.
@hamjudo I’ve never seen an electret mic go bad let alone 2 or 3 in a batch of devices. It’s probably easier to short the leads together if it mattered, but I’ll just start with cutting one and see what happens. First I have to get around to taking another one apart rather than just talking about it. But given the time of night and having to wake up early for work tomorrow, maybe, just maybe, I’ll get around to it… Saturday or Sunday.
@hamjudo So here I am laying in bed thinking of how much hassle it’s going to be to take it apart just to disable to mic and this thought came to me! Guess I’ll find out soon enough whether I get some sleep tonight or a rude awakening.
Well, I followed some of the recommendations listed here to get them working “properly”. One is DOA for certain. Some of the others are rather confused as to what is their purpose. I guess I will be on the phone trying to get replacement/refund. Glad to know some have gotten a good shipment with all of them functioning properly.
Hey @bpingel93, I thought we were all great in the 918? How come you have gone so silent on your offer? I made an exception and saved you one. It’s just 5 bucks man, what’s the deal? Did you get cold feet?
All 4 of mine are working properly. I let them charge in the ‘off’ position, then installed them in all of the dark areas (bathrooms & halls) I wanted to illuminate. I use all of mine in the “motion” mode. I did do the procedure of allow to fully charge, unplug from wall, cycle the reset button through to the flashlight setting, press reset one more time to light up the front panel, hold the reset button until the light starts to dim, select about 50% brightness, plug into wall.
Now, all working as expected. In fact, they seemed to improve after a few hours. The motion detection area got bigger after I stopped messing with them.
Just finally got mine. We are post Irma, & several families by us are still with no power. Instructions are crap. Serious questions here - how long do they have to charge for to be fully charged, & how do you know they are fully charged? My neighbors just need the flashlight & cell phone recharge capabilities.
@scfd0766 it seemed to me they charged (even the completely dead one) in less than 30 mins… I presume the battery is tiny.
I think these are great for the light mode, and perhaps even the emergency alarm repeater, but I would not depend of them to charge any phones in an emergency. If you need that just wait a day or so for meh to sell another battery pack (or just go get an anker powercore).
@djslack More like overlabeled. It’s nothing new. $5 computer speakers that consume 2 watts of power? 300 watts peak output!
Being that these are 500mah at 3.7V … factor in having to boost to 5V, losses in the circuitry, losses in your device charging, age degradation … maybe it’ll help for maybe a whole 2% increase in your phone’s battery life?
@Fellscave Mine did the buzz! Go through the steps and you’re very likely to be happy with the results.
Charge for 30 minutes (I had to wait longer, so I just charged for a few hours.)
Turn on to the mode you want.
Click the reset button on the side to cycle through light, off, flashlight, light again.
Then you can press and hold the reset button - this controls the brightness. Once you like where it’s at, let go of the reset button.
Plug into wall.
Be mildly impressed.
I finally got around to unpacking mine last night, and of course they did not work by “Simply plug it in!” After about an hour of charging via AC, all four seem to work, though I haven’t tested the smoke alarm re-alert. I’ve saved the posted images and tips for future reference, thanks to the Mehrians for sharing your knowledge and experiences!
Around 5AM today, one of the units was sounding an alarm. The main front LEDs were at full brightness, but the top flashlight LED was off. It made a sequence of 3 high-pitched beeps, then 3 lower-pitched beeps, short pause, then repeat (until I pressed the reset button). Removing the unit from the outlet and turning the side switch to OFF did not stop the alarm, only the reset button made it shut up. I had been running in nightlight mode (switch in the top position). Since I don’t really need the beeper, I plan to cut one beeper wire in the middle where it could easily be reconnected if I decide I want the beeper again sometime in the future.