@bugger I just bought one of these on Morningsave. It replaced a similar 6 outlet, two USB port charging station. The shelf makes a big difference. The shelf is great in the bathroom for charging my watch while I shower and other small bathroom items. I love it, but I don’t need two.
Unfortunately I have horizontal plugs where I’d want to plug these in. Meh. Wish these could rotate, cuz I would scoop these up, spit on em, bite down real hard, plug them in, and thrust the charge into my electronic devices.
@Ldshockley Either position is actually correct.
Electricians may position the outlet in an upside-down position so that you can quickly identify the switch-controlled receptacle. Placing the outlet upside also ensures the ground pin makes contact first if any object falls on top of a plug in the outlet. This is a bigger concern with homes that have metal outlet covers.
Yeah… what he said. There is actually no ‘electrical code’ standard for the direction of installation. I think the tendency for the ground to go down is based on the fact that all outlets used to only have the 2 blade receivers so it seemed ‘right’ when they added the third hole for it to go on the bottom. Personally I have always done that in all my installations, partially due to an inherent/subconscious leaning towards the ‘it looks like a face’ phenomena. I understand the idea of limiting the risk if something falls between the plug and the outlet and hits across the blades but really?– how common is that?
You can shut off the circuit to the outlet, take the plate off, unscrew the outlet, switch it around eith the ground hole on top, screw it back in, put the plate back on and done.
This is handy in industrial/workshop settings because anything dropped onto a partially plugged in cord cannot short the circuit, like a dropped screwdriver or nail rolling off a workbench. It hits the ground pin first and will bounce to one side or the other.
Also, the NEC (code) does not specify an orientation.
@mike808@sum1@werehatrack if you look at it the USB/etc on the top adds more height. That is where I assumed the block was. Not the shelf. Which you don’t have to use. But of course you correct if it’s only the shelf issue.
@accelerator@mike808@sum1@unksol There’s reasoning to installing with the pin on top; if a plug isn’t all the way in and something were to fall down, it would ground itself first before hitting the hot or neutral.
@accelerator@mike808@narfcake@sum1 yes @mike808 mentioned that. The outlet being "upside down"is not an issue. That’s not relevant electrically. Proper plugin so you can’t put it in “upside down” but you can of course reorient the outlet
@unksol is right.
A typical steam iron for ironing clothes uses 1500-1800 watts, which is the limit for a 15A circuit. One iron. You might even have a 20A circuit, but still just one iron. Running two will trip the breaker. Or start a fire.
@PocketBrain realistically it’s probably 0 irons because the internals of such a device is usually not capable of the full 15 AMP on each plug. I would not run an iron through this. Just cause. Why. But also meh…
@laurict@PocketBrain maybe they were very very small irons? Maybe the writers hamsters need tiny shirts? Idk. These are good for low current devices and I’m sure they know that. Just. Odd. Especially written as a FAQ
I haven’t come up wit how I would use these. Bathroom outlets are under a medicine cabinet. Less than an inch clearance. Kitchen outlets are under kitchen cabinets, and tend to have appliances, dishracks, etc in front of them. Other outlets in house are too low.
@werehatrack If you’re getting a lot of false trips with GFCI, either the receptacle is defective or what you’re using is truly leaking current.
Had that happen with a wet tile saw. The seal around the shaft was worn and allowed water to get into the motor. The inconvenience of delaying my project was well worth it versus the risk of being electrocuted.
If the GFCI is wired for “protect entire circuit” instead of “just protect the devices plugged in here”, it can be tripped by the false imbalance of an electric motor with a capacitor starting up downstream. A neighbor had this issue until we rewired the GFCIs to ignore the downstream circuit so that the voltage blips didn’t trip the rest of the circuit out. Then he just had to remember never to plug in the oxygen concentrator on the same GFCI with the one-room dehumidifier he also needed. (Actually, he ended up never plugging the concentrator into a GFCI because of the issue; not worth the risk.) My own experience with GFCIs going back to the late 1970s is that not a single trip was ever due to an actual leakage, and the false trips were frequent enough that I’ve seldom installed one. My sixty-year-old house presently has a total of one of them installed, in a bathroom - and I had to run a separate ground lead for that box because this place is almost entirely wired with old fabric-covered 14/2. When I bought the house, the only places where grounded outlets were provided were the kitchen, the laundry room, and the socket on the outside wall in the rear. I’ve had to add ground leads for a number of them since, just to keep the UPS units happy. And don’t even mention ceiling fans around a GFCI. They do not play well together.
@seannelson1 Given the comments on Amazon reporting that there’s just one plug on the back, I see no reason why they could not work on a four-outlet box, but they would still cover all four outlets. Most four-gang wall outlets are just two duplex outlets anyway, The only historically common goofball arrangement was the old three-outlet two-prong socket that fell out of use in the '60s.
Judging by user pictures on Amazon, these have a single plug and a screw to secure it in place.
Also, these are not UL rated, near as I can see. I know some people scoff at such things, but I have seen some exceptionally scary shit inside some electronics. Wire ground to neutral? Why not! Use 28 gauge wire for 20 amps? Just another fuse! Frankly, the safety of myself and my family is worth the extra money. It’s not like you replace your outlets all that often anyway.
Back in the '80s, BMW went through a phase of making wiring harnesses that were engineered down to the wire gauge that would just barely handle the nominal rated load of the device each circuit was connecting, without actually getting warm. As a result, any mod to a circuit would usually pop the fuse, and sometimes just using a test light could overload a live circuit enough to do it. Swapping up one size on the fuse, even from 5A to 7.5A, could result in a fried harness. Trying to add a tap to power the lights on a trailer was… not recommended, not at all, nope.
@TheCraiggers@werehatrack With newer cars, many of the lighting and accessories are controlled by a module – so instead of popping a fuse if improperly modified, the module gets fried instead. Yay, progress!
(To be fair, it’s all fine when it’s left alone. Folks who decide to install a bazillion light bars with no electrical experience, however, deserves that impending repair bill.)
Smartass BCMs are the bane of the skilled-modders’ existence, too. They needlessly and infuriatingly complicate what ought to be simple processes like swapping from incandescent to LED turn, brake, head and tail lights, by throwing trouble codes and often refusing to allow the lights to work at all because the load is too low. They’ll also decide that there have been too many load spikes, and disable the power side door openers on some minivans that have no inside-operable manual way to open them (a safety hazard that should never have been permitted, in my opinion), and generally make life miserable for owners - in some cases, convincing long-time brand-loyal users that it’s time to look at other makes. The few ways that they provide benefits are often greatly outweighed by the multitude of gotchas that they introduce into what was previously a very straightforward and easily-serviced system. (OBTW, I was one of the first ASE-certified Master techs in the nation, back in the late '70s.)
@narfcake@werehatrack I actually located that on Amazon! Reviews there are mixed-here’s a 2 star one copy/pasted.
“I got this as a gift but it took over 5 hours to toast my toast, since the battery life on my laptop is only slightly more then two hours, I had to stop to recharge my laptop twice during the toasting.”
The box says “up to four pieces of toast in 30 minutes” so I’m guessing the reviewer was doing something wrong, or using frozen bread, or maybe has a very old laptop.
Also, it’s out of stock or I’d get a couple of them.
“3.1A shared total output” means one thirsty recent-model phone will charge at a “normal” fast-charge rate (as distinguished from the multivoltage smarter and still faster charging system), or two phones can charge at a moderate rate, or three can plod along at dead slow if they all cooperate.
I’ll stick with my 96W six-port USB charging brick and a power strip.