@braveit1@sohmageek yeah I’m not quite sure what you mean. This can’t have GFI. That’s not how GFI works. But if you plug it into a GFI outlet, it’ll still work.
@braveit1@dam091@sohmageek
It will work, yes, and the GFCI will interrupt the entire device if it senses what it considers a faukt, but hitting the Reset becomes more of a chore.
@braveit1@dam091@sohmageek@werehatrack … Because hitting the reset button happens so often? And if that’s the case there’s a bigger problem than a blocked GF I reset button.
@Num1Zero because of they were wireless chargers they would not connect to power and youd have to buy USB chargers that could crank out power instead of 15 W for 3 ports
@bugger I just bought one of these on Morningsave. It replaced a similar 6 outlet, two USB port charging station. The shelf makes a big difference. The shelf is great in the bathroom for charging my watch while I shower and other small bathroom items. I love it, but I don’t need two.
@unksol is right.
A typical steam iron for ironing clothes uses 1500-1800 watts, which is the limit for a 15A circuit. One iron. You might even have a 20A circuit, but still just one iron. Running two will trip the breaker. Or start a fire.
@PocketBrain realistically it’s probably 0 irons because the internals of such a device is usually not capable of the full 15 AMP on each plug. I would not run an iron through this. Just cause. Why. But also meh…
@laurict@PocketBrain maybe they were very very small irons? Maybe the writers hamsters need tiny shirts? Idk. These are good for low current devices and I’m sure they know that. Just. Odd. Especially written as a FAQ
At first I thought these were ridiculous and useless, then I remembered I can actually use them in a couple of places. So I guess that just leaves ridiculous?
Unfortunately I have horizontal plugs where I’d want to plug these in. Meh. Wish these could rotate, cuz I would scoop these up, spit on em, bite down real hard, plug them in, and thrust the charge into my electronic devices.
@Ldshockley Either position is actually correct.
Electricians may position the outlet in an upside-down position so that you can quickly identify the switch-controlled receptacle. Placing the outlet upside also ensures the ground pin makes contact first if any object falls on top of a plug in the outlet. This is a bigger concern with homes that have metal outlet covers.
@braveit1
Yeah… what he said. There is actually no ‘electrical code’ standard for the direction of installation. I think the tendency for the ground to go down is based on the fact that all outlets used to only have the 2 blade receivers so it seemed ‘right’ when they added the third hole for it to go on the bottom. Personally I have always done that in all my installations, partially due to an inherent/subconscious leaning towards the ‘it looks like a face’ phenomena. I understand the idea of limiting the risk if something falls between the plug and the outlet and hits across the blades but really?– how common is that?
I haven’t come up wit how I would use these. Bathroom outlets are under a medicine cabinet. Less than an inch clearance. Kitchen outlets are under kitchen cabinets, and tend to have appliances, dishracks, etc in front of them. Other outlets in house are too low.
Judging by user pictures on Amazon, these have a single plug and a screw to secure it in place.
Also, these are not UL rated, near as I can see. I know some people scoff at such things, but I have seen some exceptionally scary shit inside some electronics. Wire ground to neutral? Why not! Use 28 gauge wire for 20 amps? Just another fuse! Frankly, the safety of myself and my family is worth the extra money. It’s not like you replace your outlets all that often anyway.
@TheCraiggers
Back in the '80s, BMW went through a phase of making wiring harnesses that were engineered down to the wire gauge that would just barely handle the nominal rated load of the device each circuit was connecting, without actually getting warm. As a result, any mod to a circuit would usually pop the fuse, and sometimes just using a test light could overload a live circuit enough to do it. Swapping up one size on the fuse, even from 5A to 7.5A, could result in a fried harness. Trying to add a tap to power the lights on a trailer was… not recommended, not at all, nope.
@TheCraiggers@werehatrack With newer cars, many of the lighting and accessories are controlled by a module – so instead of popping a fuse if improperly modified, the module gets fried instead. Yay, progress!
(To be fair, it’s all fine when it’s left alone. Folks who decide to install a bazillion light bars with no electrical experience, however, deserves that impending repair bill.)
@narfcake@TheCraiggers
Smartass BCMs are the bane of the skilled-modders’ existence, too. They needlessly and infuriatingly complicate what ought to be simple processes like swapping from incandescent to LED turn, brake, head and tail lights, by throwing trouble codes and often refusing to allow the lights to work at all because the load is too low. They’ll also decide that there have been too many load spikes, and disable the power side door openers on some minivans that have no inside-operable manual way to open them (a safety hazard that should never have been permitted, in my opinion), and generally make life miserable for owners - in some cases, convincing long-time brand-loyal users that it’s time to look at other makes. The few ways that they provide benefits are often greatly outweighed by the multitude of gotchas that they introduce into what was previously a very straightforward and easily-serviced system. (OBTW, I was one of the first ASE-certified Master techs in the nation, back in the late '70s.)
@narfcake@werehatrack I actually located that on Amazon! Reviews there are mixed-here’s a 2 star one copy/pasted.
“I got this as a gift but it took over 5 hours to toast my toast, since the battery life on my laptop is only slightly more then two hours, I had to stop to recharge my laptop twice during the toasting.”
The box says “up to four pieces of toast in 30 minutes” so I’m guessing the reviewer was doing something wrong, or using frozen bread, or maybe has a very old laptop.
Also, it’s out of stock or I’d get a couple of them.
“3.1A shared total output” means one thirsty recent-model phone will charge at a “normal” fast-charge rate (as distinguished from the multivoltage smarter and still faster charging system), or two phones can charge at a moderate rate, or three can plod along at dead slow if they all cooperate.
meh.
I’ll stick with my 96W six-port USB charging brick and a power strip.
@sum1@unksol
You can shut off the circuit to the outlet, take the plate off, unscrew the outlet, switch it around eith the ground hole on top, screw it back in, put the plate back on and done.
This is handy in industrial/workshop settings because anything dropped onto a partially plugged in cord cannot short the circuit, like a dropped screwdriver or nail rolling off a workbench. It hits the ground pin first and will bounce to one side or the other.
Also, the NEC (code) does not specify an orientation.
@mike808@sum1 true. The shelf would be useless and it probably would not be my first choice for the price for that type of installation but if the wire had enough slack you could.
@mike808@sum1@unksol
Since the shelf can go on either end of the body of this thing, the socket orientation on the wall need not be changed in order for these to be useful.
And yes, ground-up is a good orientation in a workshop.
@mike808@sum1@werehatrack if you look at it the USB/etc on the top adds more height. That is where I assumed the block was. Not the shelf. Which you don’t have to use. But of course you correct if it’s only the shelf issue.
@mike808@sum1@unksol My brother is a PhD EE. (Doctor Sparky) He insists on mounting receptacles with the ground plug up; hence his, and my, whole house is configured this way.
@accelerator@mike808@sum1@unksol There’s reasoning to installing with the pin on top; if a plug isn’t all the way in and something were to fall down, it would ground itself first before hitting the hot or neutral.
@accelerator@mike808@narfcake@sum1 yes @mike808 mentioned that. The outlet being "upside down"is not an issue. That’s not relevant electrically. Proper plugin so you can’t put it in “upside down” but you can of course reorient the outlet
@accelerator@mike808@sum1 I have no objection to mounting the outlets upside down. I assumed the person asking was “can I flip this product without messing with the outlet”. Cause. Otherwise …
You can’t with a “upside” plug
cause polarized plugs and grounds. Have any orientation you want
@nzdod@tweezak if you have a stable screwed in outlet and you used the center screw to anchor the product to that it should be fine to support the weight of phones/tablets.
You have the box anchored to a stud.
The outlet anchored to the box.
The suppressor plugged into the outlet and screwed in.
If you put it somewhere someone would trip and grab it… Bad I stuggle to find a use for the shelf part in general. But I’m not everyone
@blaineg sort of. The stability of the whole shelf/outlets is the center screw. No center screw on ground faults… so sure, you can plug it in, and then deal with it popping out.
@audiocontr@blaineg
And every GFI that I have dealt with was worse about false alarms than a parking garage full of Benzes. That includes the one rhat tried to kill a neighbor.
@werehatrack If you’re getting a lot of false trips with GFCI, either the receptacle is defective or what you’re using is truly leaking current.
Had that happen with a wet tile saw. The seal around the shaft was worn and allowed water to get into the motor. The inconvenience of delaying my project was well worth it versus the risk of being electrocuted.
@narfcake
If the GFCI is wired for “protect entire circuit” instead of “just protect the devices plugged in here”, it can be tripped by the false imbalance of an electric motor with a capacitor starting up downstream. A neighbor had this issue until we rewired the GFCIs to ignore the downstream circuit so that the voltage blips didn’t trip the rest of the circuit out. Then he just had to remember never to plug in the oxygen concentrator on the same GFCI with the one-room dehumidifier he also needed. (Actually, he ended up never plugging the concentrator into a GFCI because of the issue; not worth the risk.) My own experience with GFCIs going back to the late 1970s is that not a single trip was ever due to an actual leakage, and the false trips were frequent enough that I’ve seldom installed one. My sixty-year-old house presently has a total of one of them installed, in a bathroom - and I had to run a separate ground lead for that box because this place is almost entirely wired with old fabric-covered 14/2. When I bought the house, the only places where grounded outlets were provided were the kitchen, the laundry room, and the socket on the outside wall in the rear. I’ve had to add ground leads for a number of them since, just to keep the UPS units happy. And don’t even mention ceiling fans around a GFCI. They do not play well together.
@seannelson1 Given the comments on Amazon reporting that there’s just one plug on the back, I see no reason why they could not work on a four-outlet box, but they would still cover all four outlets. Most four-gang wall outlets are just two duplex outlets anyway, The only historically common goofball arrangement was the old three-outlet two-prong socket that fell out of use in the '60s.
Sadly without gfi it wouldn’t be good blocking the gfi. And that’s where I’d want it.
@sohmageek plug it into a gfi outlet
@braveit1 @sohmageek yeah I’m not quite sure what you mean. This can’t have GFI. That’s not how GFI works. But if you plug it into a GFI outlet, it’ll still work.
@braveit1 @dam091 @sohmageek
It will work, yes, and the GFCI will interrupt the entire device if it senses what it considers a faukt, but hitting the Reset becomes more of a chore.
@braveit1 @dam091 @sohmageek @werehatrack … Because hitting the reset button happens so often? And if that’s the case there’s a bigger problem than a blocked GF I reset button.
Why isn’t the shelf a wireless charger!?! These pretzels are making me thirsty!!!
@Num1Zero I agree about the shelf. And go get something to drink!
@Num1Zero These pretzels suck.
@Num1Zero because of they were wireless chargers they would not connect to power and youd have to buy USB chargers that could crank out power instead of 15 W for 3 ports
@Num1Zero umm… Put a wireless charger… On the shelf? I mean, you should have at least a dozen or so Meh wireless chargers laying around.
You might plug in an iron or two, but not a putter or a driver.
Unlike Michael Moore, I’d like to see a picture of the back side. One or two plugs?
@sdansmith Michael Moore doesn’t want to see a pic of the backside, you’re saying? Or maybe you prefer to see a tRump backside?
@mehvid1 I’m gonna let you muse over the true meaning of that ambiguous statement, along with the visual images of both possibilities.
Sweet dreams…
(But if you’re willing to answer the obvious question before the deal expires, thanks.)
@sdansmith You’re a disgusting person.
Have a good day. Sorry I didn’t have the info you wanted.
@mehvid1
@sdansmith looks about “right.”
This is a shockingly good deal!
@yakkoTDI You got a charge out of it, eh?
Even if you plug one into the other??
But to get the absolute best surge protection (nearly 100% effective) you shouldn’t plug them in at all…
The lesser know Dr Seuss sequel ‘Electric Grapes and Spam’
OH MY GOD THEY SHELVED GLEN!!!
@shahnm I was thinking he was waiting for his sock puppet SO to help him brush his tooth.
@tweezak OH MY GOD THEY HAVE GLEN WAITING FOR HIS SOCK PUPPET SO TO HELP HIM BRUSH HIS TOOTH!!!
@shahnm Wait - Glen has access to a toothbrush?
@macromeh @shahnm I know you’re not brand new so you must have just ignored the 1001 toothbrushes we’ve been Meh’d with lol
Specs
Product Dimensions
What’s Included?
Price Comparison
$43.98 for 2 at Amazon
Warranty
1 Year Warranty
Estimated Delivery
Monday, Oct 18 - Friday, Oct 22
I have like 80 of these. I’m selling mine 3 for $24. Let me know!!!
@bugger how do I order them
@bugger I just bought one of these on Morningsave. It replaced a similar 6 outlet, two USB port charging station. The shelf makes a big difference. The shelf is great in the bathroom for charging my watch while I shower and other small bathroom items. I love it, but I don’t need two.
ONE. IRON . Come on meh.
@unksol
/youtube 4 lights
@unksol is right.
A typical steam iron for ironing clothes uses 1500-1800 watts, which is the limit for a 15A circuit. One iron. You might even have a 20A circuit, but still just one iron. Running two will trip the breaker. Or start a fire.
@PocketBrain realistically it’s probably 0 irons because the internals of such a device is usually not capable of the full 15 AMP on each plug. I would not run an iron through this. Just cause. Why. But also meh…
@PocketBrain @unksol Using 18 irons to try and sell this, when even just two irons would trip the breaker… that’s irony.
@laurict @PocketBrain maybe they were very very small irons? Maybe the writers hamsters need tiny shirts? Idk. These are good for low current devices and I’m sure they know that. Just. Odd. Especially written as a FAQ
@unksol seriously. Who in this group would even know what to do if they plugged an iron in?! If you know the answer, please, just don’t.
@BIGRHAWQS I meant more there’s no reason to run an iron or other high current device through something like that and it’s a bad idea.
I do have an iron but I’m also greatful I haven’t had to use it for over a decade so
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Am I missing something or are they plugging in grapes in the picture?
@kjgreen
Answer number one: I’m sure those grapes only draw about half an amp.
Answer number two: It looks like the rest of the left cord was shopped out of the photo, so yeah, it does look like those are electric grapes.
@kjgreen @werehatrack Electric Grapes was on the short list of band names initially considered by a 60’s rock group.
@kjgreen @macromeh @werehatrack Maybe you’re thinking of Moby Grape??
At first I thought these were ridiculous and useless, then I remembered I can actually use them in a couple of places. So I guess that just leaves ridiculous?
/giphy ravishing-fantastical-sky
Unfortunately I have horizontal plugs where I’d want to plug these in. Meh. Wish these could rotate, cuz I would scoop these up, spit on em, bite down real hard, plug them in, and thrust the charge into my electronic devices.
@ealbright25 Costco has some that rotate.
Doesn’t work if someone put your outlets upside down
@Ldshockley you could fix that. Turn off the breaker first.
@Ldshockley Actually, it looks like you can just plug it in upside down, then put the shelf on the top. Shelf works on either end.
@kevinrs @Ldshockley I have one and yes, you can put the shelf either way.
@Ldshockley Either position is actually correct.
Electricians may position the outlet in an upside-down position so that you can quickly identify the switch-controlled receptacle. Placing the outlet upside also ensures the ground pin makes contact first if any object falls on top of a plug in the outlet. This is a bigger concern with homes that have metal outlet covers.
@braveit1
Yeah… what he said. There is actually no ‘electrical code’ standard for the direction of installation. I think the tendency for the ground to go down is based on the fact that all outlets used to only have the 2 blade receivers so it seemed ‘right’ when they added the third hole for it to go on the bottom. Personally I have always done that in all my installations, partially due to an inherent/subconscious leaning towards the ‘it looks like a face’ phenomena. I understand the idea of limiting the risk if something falls between the plug and the outlet and hits across the blades but really?– how common is that?
I haven’t come up wit how I would use these. Bathroom outlets are under a medicine cabinet. Less than an inch clearance. Kitchen outlets are under kitchen cabinets, and tend to have appliances, dishracks, etc in front of them. Other outlets in house are too low.
I found the writeup very funny. (As opposed to some (many?) of the eye-rolling T-shirt writeups which I find to not be very funny.)
Is that SPAM in the toaster?
Judging by user pictures on Amazon, these have a single plug and a screw to secure it in place.
Also, these are not UL rated, near as I can see. I know some people scoff at such things, but I have seen some exceptionally scary shit inside some electronics. Wire ground to neutral? Why not! Use 28 gauge wire for 20 amps? Just another fuse! Frankly, the safety of myself and my family is worth the extra money. It’s not like you replace your outlets all that often anyway.
@TheCraiggers On the Amazon page, they show it as ETL listed.
https://www.intertek.com/marks/etl/
@narfcake I missed that! Thanks for correcting me. It’s good to now know these will probably not kill my family.
@TheCraiggers
Back in the '80s, BMW went through a phase of making wiring harnesses that were engineered down to the wire gauge that would just barely handle the nominal rated load of the device each circuit was connecting, without actually getting warm. As a result, any mod to a circuit would usually pop the fuse, and sometimes just using a test light could overload a live circuit enough to do it. Swapping up one size on the fuse, even from 5A to 7.5A, could result in a fried harness. Trying to add a tap to power the lights on a trailer was… not recommended, not at all, nope.
@TheCraiggers @werehatrack With newer cars, many of the lighting and accessories are controlled by a module – so instead of popping a fuse if improperly modified, the module gets fried instead. Yay, progress!
(To be fair, it’s all fine when it’s left alone. Folks who decide to install a bazillion light bars with no electrical experience, however, deserves that impending repair bill.)
@narfcake @TheCraiggers
Smartass BCMs are the bane of the skilled-modders’ existence, too. They needlessly and infuriatingly complicate what ought to be simple processes like swapping from incandescent to LED turn, brake, head and tail lights, by throwing trouble codes and often refusing to allow the lights to work at all because the load is too low. They’ll also decide that there have been too many load spikes, and disable the power side door openers on some minivans that have no inside-operable manual way to open them (a safety hazard that should never have been permitted, in my opinion), and generally make life miserable for owners - in some cases, convincing long-time brand-loyal users that it’s time to look at other makes. The few ways that they provide benefits are often greatly outweighed by the multitude of gotchas that they introduce into what was previously a very straightforward and easily-serviced system. (OBTW, I was one of the first ASE-certified Master techs in the nation, back in the late '70s.)
I’ve been looking for a profitable side hustle. Thanks, Meh, for the tip! How do I get in touch with the guy that converts irons to USB power?
@algae1221
Possibly the saddest thing I have seen in many years was a question about why nobody makes a USB soldering iron.
@algae1221 @werehatrack
/image USB toaster
@algae1221 @narfcake
Another fine product of The Onion. Sadly, no longer available, along with the companion Peaceful Progression Smoke Alarm. Here’s where Amazon was selling this one.
@narfcake @werehatrack I actually located that on Amazon! Reviews there are mixed-here’s a 2 star one copy/pasted.
“I got this as a gift but it took over 5 hours to toast my toast, since the battery life on my laptop is only slightly more then two hours, I had to stop to recharge my laptop twice during the toasting.”
The box says “up to four pieces of toast in 30 minutes” so I’m guessing the reviewer was doing something wrong, or using frozen bread, or maybe has a very old laptop.
Also, it’s out of stock or I’d get a couple of them.
@werehatrack Ha, I see we were doing the same thing!
@algae1221 @werehatrack Actually, they do make a USB soldering iron, and it actually looks pretty nice, but it’s not inexpensive.
$110 at adafruit.com, runs on USB-C, (which will provide 20A). It has a temperature range from 100ºC to 400ºC:USB C Powered Soldering Iron
@algae1221 @ELJAY @werehatrack I have two of different makes, both TS100 based designs. They’ll run on USB-C or the usual barrel jack.
It’s entirely feasible to run one from a USB battery pack and have a portable soldering iron.
The Pinecil is by far the cheapest at $25, but you’ve got to figure in shipping (and time) from Hong Kong.
https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/
“3.1A shared total output” means one thirsty recent-model phone will charge at a “normal” fast-charge rate (as distinguished from the multivoltage smarter and still faster charging system), or two phones can charge at a moderate rate, or three can plod along at dead slow if they all cooperate.
meh.
I’ll stick with my 96W six-port USB charging brick and a power strip.
Kitchen and maybe bathroom approved. But most other outlets are too low. Ehh meh.
Does anyone know if these can be put in upside down? Have some outlets that have a light switch right above them so this wouldn’t fit otherwise
@sum1 A reviewer on Amazon said the shelf can be moved to the bottom, if that helps. It does look like there’s slots on that end for it.
@sum1 you cannot plug it in upside down it’s a grounded outlet.
@sum1 @unksol
You can shut off the circuit to the outlet, take the plate off, unscrew the outlet, switch it around eith the ground hole on top, screw it back in, put the plate back on and done.
This is handy in industrial/workshop settings because anything dropped onto a partially plugged in cord cannot short the circuit, like a dropped screwdriver or nail rolling off a workbench. It hits the ground pin first and will bounce to one side or the other.
Also, the NEC (code) does not specify an orientation.
@mike808 @sum1 true. The shelf would be useless and it probably would not be my first choice for the price for that type of installation but if the wire had enough slack you could.
@mike808 @sum1 @unksol
Since the shelf can go on either end of the body of this thing, the socket orientation on the wall need not be changed in order for these to be useful.
And yes, ground-up is a good orientation in a workshop.
@mike808 @sum1 @werehatrack if you look at it the USB/etc on the top adds more height. That is where I assumed the block was. Not the shelf. Which you don’t have to use. But of course you correct if it’s only the shelf issue.
@mike808 @sum1 @unksol My brother is a PhD EE. (Doctor Sparky) He insists on mounting receptacles with the ground plug up; hence his, and my, whole house is configured this way.
@accelerator @mike808 @sum1 @unksol There’s reasoning to installing with the pin on top; if a plug isn’t all the way in and something were to fall down, it would ground itself first before hitting the hot or neutral.
@accelerator @mike808 @narfcake @sum1 yes @mike808 mentioned that. The outlet being "upside down"is not an issue. That’s not relevant electrically. Proper plugin so you can’t put it in “upside down” but you can of course reorient the outlet
@accelerator @mike808 @sum1 I have no objection to mounting the outlets upside down. I assumed the person asking was “can I flip this product without messing with the outlet”. Cause. Otherwise …
You can’t with a “upside” plug
cause polarized plugs and grounds. Have any orientation you want
Woot has it for $15.99 each. Bit skeptical on it’s stability though…
@nzdod It appears to have a screw hole in the middle to anchor it to the outlets
@nzdod @tweezak if you have a stable screwed in outlet and you used the center screw to anchor the product to that it should be fine to support the weight of phones/tablets.
You have the box anchored to a stud.
The outlet anchored to the box.
The suppressor plugged into the outlet and screwed in.
If you put it somewhere someone would trip and grab it… Bad I stuggle to find a use for the shelf part in general. But I’m not everyone
Most bathroom outlets are ground fault. Not gonna work in a ground fault
@audiocontr It will work fine, but you’ll have to remove it to reset the outlet if the GFI trips.
@audiocontr @blaineg and if you screw it in… You can’t get but with a self test outlet. Clearly someone needs some bathroom charging
@blaineg sort of. The stability of the whole shelf/outlets is the center screw. No center screw on ground faults… so sure, you can plug it in, and then deal with it popping out.
@audiocontr @blaineg
And every GFI that I have dealt with was worse about false alarms than a parking garage full of Benzes. That includes the one rhat tried to kill a neighbor.
@werehatrack If you’re getting a lot of false trips with GFCI, either the receptacle is defective or what you’re using is truly leaking current.
Had that happen with a wet tile saw. The seal around the shaft was worn and allowed water to get into the motor. The inconvenience of delaying my project was well worth it versus the risk of being electrocuted.
@narfcake
If the GFCI is wired for “protect entire circuit” instead of “just protect the devices plugged in here”, it can be tripped by the false imbalance of an electric motor with a capacitor starting up downstream. A neighbor had this issue until we rewired the GFCIs to ignore the downstream circuit so that the voltage blips didn’t trip the rest of the circuit out. Then he just had to remember never to plug in the oxygen concentrator on the same GFCI with the one-room dehumidifier he also needed. (Actually, he ended up never plugging the concentrator into a GFCI because of the issue; not worth the risk.) My own experience with GFCIs going back to the late 1970s is that not a single trip was ever due to an actual leakage, and the false trips were frequent enough that I’ve seldom installed one. My sixty-year-old house presently has a total of one of them installed, in a bathroom - and I had to run a separate ground lead for that box because this place is almost entirely wired with old fabric-covered 14/2. When I bought the house, the only places where grounded outlets were provided were the kitchen, the laundry room, and the socket on the outside wall in the rear. I’ve had to add ground leads for a number of them since, just to keep the UPS units happy. And don’t even mention ceiling fans around a GFCI. They do not play well together.
Do these plug into a 2-outlet box or would they work in a 4-outlet plate?
@seannelson1 Given the comments on Amazon reporting that there’s just one plug on the back, I see no reason why they could not work on a four-outlet box, but they would still cover all four outlets. Most four-gang wall outlets are just two duplex outlets anyway, The only historically common goofball arrangement was the old three-outlet two-prong socket that fell out of use in the '60s.