Yup, I swore off Duracells long ago. These were from 2017, notice the 2023 date. Before that, I had lost a few nice Maglites to Duracells. I’d almost trust the green bulk Lucas ones I got here years ago more.
We only used the Lucas batteries in things like holiday light sets and decorations. That way they got used up usually within 30 days or so. Same with the famous Fujitsu ones from years ago. We never had a leakage issue because they only got used in short terms like the Lucas.
Costco used to carry Eveready; I mourn the switch to Duracell because Costco used to be the best place to get the lithium AA and AAA cells that work best in some of our equipment. They’ve gotten very expensive since.
Anyone have reviews of the Kirkland Costco store brand vs Duracell? They’re the same price right now because the Duracells are on sale. In 2016 the Kirklands were made by Duracell; maybe that’s why the changed the main battery brand they sold too.
@medz More than a decade back, I successfully excavated three leaky RayOVacs from a special-edition Maglite. The residue was not all white I suspect this example’s leakage is stained by the probably-urethane battery holder it has attacked and damaged.
@blaineg@shahnm My own experience is actually similar, but I find myself replacing them about twice as often as I would an Energizer in the same device. But because the rechargeables leak even less, my long-term plan is to simply dispense with all of the alkalines and run entirely with devices that use rechargeable batteries of one sort or another. Lately, the anti-alkaline pogrom has been against the C cells. Doing away with the AA and AAA units, and the 9V packs, is more problematic because of the large drop in capacity involved.
@narfcake@werehatrack NiMH voltages are just too low or sags too quickly for a lot of devices not designed to use them. I’ve been using rechargeable Lithium 1.5V batteries for devices that are battery hogs, like VR controllers and others which require a change out every few weeks. While the initial battery cost is higher, the number of cycles more than make up for that and the Lithium chemistry provides a stable voltage for as much or longer runtime over Alkalines, depending on the current draw characteristics. I also keep some non-rechargeable Lithium 1.5V AAs for things that take very little power and need to run for a long time like outdoor weather sensors and the likes. Those can go for a year or more and aren’t as prone to die unexpectedly due to winter temperatures.
@narfcake A device that needs a D will chew up three AAs and not have enough left to spit out. Plus, replacing one cell with three merely triples the likelihood of a failure. And the storage density from the NIMH rechargeable AA units is a lot less than a third of an alkaline D cell. Those converters are a very bad joke, at best
Jeeze I’d be scared to hold that thing in front of my face! Reminds me of when my first vape battery started swelling and separating the unit altogether, took me a minute to realize what was going on and then I realized how lucky I was not to have it blown up in my face! Talk about feeling dumb!
When I bought this thing, my immediate reaction to the design was “Who is the idiot that thinks multiplying the likelihood of a leak destroying the light by twelve is a good idea?” Those AA cells are all in series, and the pack develops a nominal 18V, actually measured at 19.2V with no load and fresh cells. I’m going to see what’s needed in order to convert this to something less ridiculous.