It’s a Duracell-branded flashlight, bought at Costco; I don’t recall when. The cells came with it. They were working just fine less than 60 days ago. Today, not so much.
Yup, I swore off Duracells long ago. These were from 2017, notice the 2023 date. Before that, I had lost a few nice Maglites to Duracells. I’d almost trust the green bulk Lucas ones I got here years ago more.
We only used the Lucas batteries in things like holiday light sets and decorations. That way they got used up usually within 30 days or so. Same with the famous Fujitsu ones from years ago. We never had a leakage issue because they only got used in short terms like the Lucas.
Costco used to carry Eveready; I mourn the switch to Duracell because Costco used to be the best place to get the lithium AA and AAA cells that work best in some of our equipment. They’ve gotten very expensive since.
Anyone have reviews of the Kirkland Costco store brand vs Duracell? They’re the same price right now because the Duracells are on sale. In 2016 the Kirklands were made by Duracell; maybe that’s why the changed the main battery brand they sold too.
@werehatrack I don’t recall having any more issues with Kirkland than with Duracells. Both were not as good as Energizers wrt leaking and destroying equipment.
@medz More than a decade back, I successfully excavated three leaky RayOVacs from a special-edition Maglite. The residue was not all white I suspect this example’s leakage is stained by the probably-urethane battery holder it has attacked and damaged.
@blaineg@werehatrack No doubt. However, after years of using what amounts to hundreds of batteries among the family, I’m not aware of having had one leak yet… I just jinxed myself.
@blaineg@shahnm My own experience is actually similar, but I find myself replacing them about twice as often as I would an Energizer in the same device. But because the rechargeables leak even less, my long-term plan is to simply dispense with all of the alkalines and run entirely with devices that use rechargeable batteries of one sort or another. Lately, the anti-alkaline pogrom has been against the C cells. Doing away with the AA and AAA units, and the 9V packs, is more problematic because of the large drop in capacity involved.
@narfcake@werehatrack NiMH voltages are just too low or sags too quickly for a lot of devices not designed to use them. I’ve been using rechargeable Lithium 1.5V batteries for devices that are battery hogs, like VR controllers and others which require a change out every few weeks. While the initial battery cost is higher, the number of cycles more than make up for that and the Lithium chemistry provides a stable voltage for as much or longer runtime over Alkalines, depending on the current draw characteristics. I also keep some non-rechargeable Lithium 1.5V AAs for things that take very little power and need to run for a long time like outdoor weather sensors and the likes. Those can go for a year or more and aren’t as prone to die unexpectedly due to winter temperatures.
@narfcake A device that needs a D will chew up three AAs and not have enough left to spit out. Plus, replacing one cell with three merely triples the likelihood of a failure. And the storage density from the NIMH rechargeable AA units is a lot less than a third of an alkaline D cell. Those converters are a very bad joke, at best
@hoodwink@narfcake@werehatrack
Jeeze I’d be scared to hold that thing in front of my face! Reminds me of when my first vape battery started swelling and separating the unit altogether, took me a minute to realize what was going on and then I realized how lucky I was not to have it blown up in my face! Talk about feeling dumb!
When I bought this thing, my immediate reaction to the design was “Who is the idiot that thinks multiplying the likelihood of a leak destroying the light by twelve is a good idea?” Those AA cells are all in series, and the pack develops a nominal 18V, actually measured at 19.2V with no load and fresh cells. I’m going to see what’s needed in order to convert this to something less ridiculous.
Yup, I swore off Duracells long ago. These were from 2017, notice the 2023 date. Before that, I had lost a few nice Maglites to Duracells. I’d almost trust the green bulk Lucas ones I got here years ago more.
KuoH
@kuoh Trust me…the Lucas cells are worse. Way worse. Ask me how I know…
@kuoh @PooltoyWolf We don’t call Lucas the Prince of Darkness for nothing, you know.
@kuoh @PooltoyWolf @werehatrack
/image Lucas replacement smoke
@kuoh @narfcake @werehatrack Love that joke.
@kuoh @PooltoyWolf I bought some of the Lucas, mostly as a joke. The joke was on me.
The leak as badly as Kirkland, or anything else. But some are also completely dead right out of the package. Others work fine.
They must save a lot of money by not having a QA dept.
@kuoh @narfcake @PooltoyWolf @werehatrack
Time to take it back?
@narfcake I have a major grouse in with Duracell right at the moment, and I will see what they say before deciding whether to take it to Costco.
@narfcake @werehatrack
/image major grouse
@heartny It would be more believable if those Duracells were leaking.
KuoH
@heartny
We only used the Lucas batteries in things like holiday light sets and decorations. That way they got used up usually within 30 days or so. Same with the famous Fujitsu ones from years ago. We never had a leakage issue because they only got used in short terms like the Lucas.
Costco used to carry Eveready; I mourn the switch to Duracell because Costco used to be the best place to get the lithium AA and AAA cells that work best in some of our equipment. They’ve gotten very expensive since.
Anyone have reviews of the Kirkland Costco store brand vs Duracell? They’re the same price right now because the Duracells are on sale. In 2016 the Kirklands were made by Duracell; maybe that’s why the changed the main battery brand they sold too.
@duodec According to google in 2022 it was still duracell
@duodec Kirkland was leakier and lower capacity than the dreaded D name when I last used them.
@werehatrack I don’t recall having any more issues with Kirkland than with Duracells. Both were not as good as Energizers wrt leaking and destroying equipment.
@duodec @werehatrack Kirkland were fine for many years, and turned to leaky crap in recent years. I’ve quit buying them.
I mostly use NiMH rechargables, but alkalines are better in some cases.
Leakin’ Lucas. They disintegrated in the unopened 4-packs. Worse than Duracell, but not by much.
Looks like you got water in it. Never seen brown leakage like that.
@medz It has never been anywhere that could have resulted in water intrusion
@medz @werehatrack Samsung customer service says otherwise. /s
@medz More than a decade back, I successfully excavated three leaky RayOVacs from a special-edition Maglite. The residue was not all white I suspect this example’s leakage is stained by the probably-urethane battery holder it has attacked and damaged.
Friends don’t let friends use Duracell.
No amount of refrigeration will civilize those rogues. Please switch to a more genteel brand. I’m partial to Amazon basics.
@shahnm Is that really a brand, or just a rebrand?
@blaineg @shahnm It is a brand, but not necessarily consistently from the same manufacturer. Amazon makes nothing. Except money.
@blaineg @werehatrack No doubt. However, after years of using what amounts to hundreds of batteries among the family, I’m not aware of having had one leak yet… I just jinxed myself.
@blaineg @shahnm My own experience is actually similar, but I find myself replacing them about twice as often as I would an Energizer in the same device. But because the rechargeables leak even less, my long-term plan is to simply dispense with all of the alkalines and run entirely with devices that use rechargeable batteries of one sort or another. Lately, the anti-alkaline pogrom has been against the C cells. Doing away with the AA and AAA units, and the 9V packs, is more problematic because of the large drop in capacity involved.
@werehatrack Tenergy Centura batteries? They’re actual C-sized NIMH, not a AA in a C-sized shell.
@narfcake They are, and they’re excellent. For the C applications I have, the Amazon Basics have been the choice. I’ll tackle the D-cell ones next.
@werehatrack For D-size, some of those 3AA->D converters?
@narfcake @werehatrack NiMH voltages are just too low or sags too quickly for a lot of devices not designed to use them. I’ve been using rechargeable Lithium 1.5V batteries for devices that are battery hogs, like VR controllers and others which require a change out every few weeks. While the initial battery cost is higher, the number of cycles more than make up for that and the Lithium chemistry provides a stable voltage for as much or longer runtime over Alkalines, depending on the current draw characteristics. I also keep some non-rechargeable Lithium 1.5V AAs for things that take very little power and need to run for a long time like outdoor weather sensors and the likes. Those can go for a year or more and aren’t as prone to die unexpectedly due to winter temperatures.
KuoH
@narfcake A device that needs a D will chew up three AAs and not have enough left to spit out. Plus, replacing one cell with three merely triples the likelihood of a failure. And the storage density from the NIMH rechargeable AA units is a lot less than a third of an alkaline D cell. Those converters are a very bad joke, at best
Never had a leaky rechargeable.
@hoodwink Me neither.
@hoodwink @werehatrack On a different paw, I’ve dealt with my fair share of puffed lithium polymer cells
(AKA spicy pillows.)
/image spicy pillows
@hoodwink @narfcake Uh, yeah. This is why I refuse to buy tablets altogether, and won’t buy a laptop with an internal battery.
@hoodwink @narfcake @werehatrack
Jeeze I’d be scared to hold that thing in front of my face! Reminds me of when my first vape battery started swelling and separating the unit altogether, took me a minute to realize what was going on and then I realized how lucky I was not to have it blown up in my face! Talk about feeling dumb!
What’s everyone doing to make their batteries leak?
I’ve not had leaky batteries in a decade or so… even Lucas didnt leak for me. I use some budget crap.
When I bought this thing, my immediate reaction to the design was “Who is the idiot that thinks multiplying the likelihood of a leak destroying the light by twelve is a good idea?” Those AA cells are all in series, and the pack develops a nominal 18V, actually measured at 19.2V with no load and fresh cells. I’m going to see what’s needed in order to convert this to something less ridiculous.
Now I have to do this.