@awk strangely enough, no- but after too many margaritas it was left outside after showing Tron thru a fogbank. The fogbank won (and an awesome way to watch movies).
@haydesigner 4k 3 chip HFR (high frame rate) DLP projectors are what you are most likely to encounter in ‘any given’ movie theater. Christie brand projectors are ubiquitous within the industry and the overwhelming vast majority of those units are DLP. A lot of Barco projectors are also DLP . . . To move away from DLP in a professional setting, and to retain 4k HFR, you’re tripling (or more) the budget for a projector.
Interesting, but I worry about the lamp on a refurb. Is it new, or been used 1,000 hours or what? And the doc says to go to the dealer to get a replacement part…
@eeterrific They usually do not replace the bulb in a refurb. That said, the life on these bulbs is a lot longer than they used to be . . . A replacement Vivitek bulb is right under $100, new. You can most likely find a third party bulb for half that.
@therealjrn Bulb hours are tracked by the projector’s firmware and can be viewed in the set-up menu or in tech mode (which you can find directions on how to gain access to on the interwebs) - the bulb in most all of these projectors are now are “chipped”, so the identifier is unique.
The vendor is most likely replacing them with brown box Vivitek factory fresh bulbs, if the vendor is not Vivitek themselves. Also, the new bulb may most likely come uninstalled, so you’ll be able to tell it is brand new.
Woot sold the D83 a short while back and the reviews that came back on those refurbs after delivery were excellent. One or two had minor issues, but most appeared to be brand new.
Already having a 2600 lumen Boxlight from my local school surplus for $35, it’s hard to justify $184. This one would definitely be quieter. I’m not fond of DLP tearing compared to the 3LCD Mitsubishi I had, but for $100 I’d probably have nabbed one of these as a spare. I dig out he projector about once every month for a game night.
If I want to project a 2.40 image, can this do it? I realize it will suck but I just want to kick the tires with different aspect ratios beamed onto the wall before committing to a screen. Not ready to buy the actual projector quite yet.
As the owner of three projectors I feel like I should probably comment.
Firstly, the resolution. If you’re thinking of not buying it because of the resolution, don’t. 1024x768 isn’t really that bad. At 9 feet away from a 42" screen it becomes “retina”, aka you physically cannot see the pixels. The same for 13 feet from a 60" screen, 18 feet/80", or 22’/100". (Metric: 2.8m away/1.1m diagonal, 4m/1.5m, 5.5m/2m) In comparison, a lot of other projectors are 800x600, which I think is a bit too low. (My projectors are 800x600, 1024x768, and 1024x768 3D DLP.)
Will you be watching stuff at that distance? Probably not (it’s not an absurd distance though) but still, you’ll probably be between 7 and 15 feet away. At that distance even a huge 100" screen looks pretty decent.
Secondly, I highly recommend buying a screen and not building one yourself. I’m a very DIY-type person (I built my own kitchen table, for crying out loud) but I’ve tried to build three projector screens and each has turned out poorly and was a massive time sink.
Thirdly, the price. It’s not half bad. If you were thinking about getting a projector, this is probably going to be roughly the same quality and $50-$100 lower than whatever you were going to get on Amazon/Bestbuy/etc. If you weren’t thinking about getting a projector, don’t buy this because it’s A FANTASTIC DEAL AND I MUST BUY NOW. If $184 is too much for you, go on Craigslist and you can probably score a used projector that’s similar for $120, albeit with a used bulb.
Which brings me to bulbs: you’re going to want a projector with a cheap bulb, because it WILL burn out and it will seriously suck when that happens. There are $350 projectors where the bulb costs $300, and yes that’s even if you go on eBay. This lamp says it lasts 3000 hours (4000 on Eco mode, which you will turn on exactly once, notice that it makes your image 0.1% dimmer, and permanently disable it because you’re addicted to brightness) so that’s 1500 2-hour movies. But then people leave it on overnight, forget to turn it off when you leave… and in a few years you need a new bulb.
Anyway, hope this helps people, I’m not sure if anyone’s even gonna read this.
@owenversteeg
Do you know if 16:9 will look decent on a big 100" or 120" screen? It mentioned the native resolution is 4:3. So I wasn’t sure if the resolution went down if you set it up for 16:9.
@darkzrobe I doubt that. Projector prices have pretty much reached a bottom floor, since there’s a limit to how cheaply you can make some of these things. Unlike most consumer electronics, there aren’t any Chinese companies pushing down the price and the vast majority of Chinese no-name projectors are total garbage color and brightness wise.
@owenversteeg Disagree, the prices for VGA became the prices for SVGA. I bet you 3 years by now the price now for 1074x768 will be the 1280x800 or 1280x720 projectors.
@darkzrobe thabk you for saving me the time and money finding that out for myself. I’ll take your advice and look for something better suited to my needs.
@bpingel93 The resolution goes down if you’re viewing anything at an aspect ratio that’s not the default, but so does the screen area. For 16:9 you have the same width, but you have fewer vertical pixels. Your image would be 1024x576, but since both the projected image and the screen area got shorter, the number of pixels per inch remains the same. That is, of course, assuming that the screen size is the same. A 16:9 120" screen is 6200 sq. in., and a 4:3 120" screen is 7000 sq. in.
So basically: as long as you use the same screen, switching between 4:3 and 16:9 will keep your pixel density/“retina-ness” the same.
I personally would not go for a 120" screen. I’d go for 42", 60", 80", maybe 100" but not 120". Keep in mind that as size increases brightness also drops off. A 120" 16:9 image is 6200 sq. in. A 100" 16:9 image is 4200 sq. in, and an 80" 16:9 image is 2730 sq. in. 80-100" is where screens start to look impressively big, and humans are bad at perceiving size, so the difference between 80 and 100-120 is smaller than you think. A 120" image is almost 2.5x larger in area than an 80" image - thus giving you significantly worse resolution and brightness - but it only looks 50% larger to our brains. Brightness is harder to calculate but still important, and a 2.5x larger image will really hurt that. A 120" image becomes retina at 27 feet away.
If you’re trying to make an image “pop” more, or make the screen look bigger, you can also try a screen with a black border. Also try speakers, just two will be fine, each on opposite sides pointed towards the audience. Those two things will make an 80" setup blow away a 120" setup anytime.
If you’re really sensitive about screen size, but want to keep the image quality of an 80" screen, you can also just lie. I’ve had friends try to guess my screen sizes for various screens I’ve had up and they’re usually way off. If you say your 80" screen is 100" I really doubt anyone will be able to tell. Like I said: people are really bad at guessing things.
Okay, I’ve pretty much written a novel for Meh here. Hey Meh, want to throw me one of these? I’ve been such a good VMP lately with my comments. Pretty please? I’ll write nice, detailed things about it all over the Internet.
@darkzrobe Yeah, but how long did VGA to SVGA take? Many, many years. I don’t think it will happen in 3. What will drive it? There isn’t any competition from any of the little brands that drove progress for a while. I’ve had projectors for years and progress has been slow as molasses.
@bpingel93 1280x800 is usually considerably more expensive. Keep in mind that usually, the most important part of image quality is brightness, colors, and then resolution in third place. The only reason people fawn over resolution is because there are concrete numbers for it vs. brightness that can be inflated and colors that are hard to quantify.
The black bar argument isn’t terribly compelling, IMO. Remember that it’s a projector, not a TV, so you can adjust the screen to be either 4:3 or 16:9 (for a lot of screens, not all.) Boom, black bars gone. Black bars look worse in a TV because the TV is in a frame. I’ve never had an issue with black bars on projectors myself.
I wouldn’t entirely rule out this projector if I was you. It’s bright, it seems to have decent colors, it’s pretty cheap and it’s available now as opposed to some undefined time in the future when prices will fall for less common 1280x800 projectors.
@owenversteeg My original statement is dont let bulbs sway you on this projector. This is a good starter one. And if the bulb ever goes, you can look for another budget one which will most likely have better specs.
@darkzrobe Yep, I agree. Although I think the decision on whether to replace the bulb is one to push down the road - very dependent on the price of bulbs and how far projectors have come.
Would this be good for an outdoor Halloween display? Have a friend that bought one of the Atmosfear projectors and it sucks until super dark. You have to shine it on a completely white solid background. The neatest Halloween displays are projected onto semi transparent fabric so you can see the house beyond. That way the ghosts actually look real.
I think DLP got the short end of the stick, especially in television tech. There are so many reasons it’s better than LCD…it’s faster, can’t be ‘ghosted’ or burned in, there are no convergence issues (on single-DMD systems, overwhelmingly used in consumer-level equipment), and if you were okay with not having a TV so flat it could be wall mounted, could be scaled up to stupid huge sizes. Mitsubishi sold a 92-inch DLP HDTV towards the end of the technology’s heyday, and it cost less than comparably sized, or even smaller, LCDs and plasmas. Our ‘daily driver’ TV is a 2008 Samsung HL61A750 61" full 1080p DLP set, and after nearly 10 years, the picture is still fantastic. I’d love to see DLP TVs make a comeback, because unlike plasma and CRT, the tech is still in use. I don’t think the public can be convinced to buy TVs again that aren’t paper-thin though. A shame.
Also, if you’ve got some spare time, Google how DLP technology works. It’s freaking awesome.
Well this is certainly the most expensive thing that I’ve bought on Meh with no actual purpose. I may have to build a man-cave for the doghouse I’ll be in.
@tomsliwowski That’s unfortunate. My audio is working fine via Chromecast and Apple TV (connected via HDMI). Not to be that guy but did you make sure the volume was turned up and that it was not muted via the remote? I don’t remember if this item sold out or not. If not maybe Meh could swap it out?
@sammypedram There is a very high (probably about 99%) chance that the issue is entirely on my end. I hooked up a Kangaroo PC that I was working on to test. I should have picked up the firetv stick that was about 10 feet away and tested it there. I’ll try again tonight. Thanks for confirming that the audio part does work for you.
Side question, have you tried using the RCA jacks or headphone audio jacks as output? Curious if I could hook this up to my LePai amp for outdoor use.
@tomsliwowski I did not try out headphones or RCA jacks. I only had a few minutes to test it out last night but I can look into it tonight. I primarily plan on using mine outdoors but if I ever try it indoors it could be interesting to connect it to my receiver to utilize surround sound . . .
Got mine yesterday. Brief trial of plugging in Chromecast and Apple TV, works awesome! I have ordered a 120 inch outdoor screen and a large Bluetooth speaker to try to create my own outdoor movie night experience. Excited to try it out!
@DJ the top of mine is pretty scratched up. But it works and the firmware said there are 0 hours on the bulb. (Ignoring the fact that there is a lamp counter reset option. I’m hoping they actually put a new bulb in there and didn’t just reset the counter).
Specs
interlaced video and ensures crisp, clean images
What’s in the Box?
1x Projector
1x Power cord
1x Remote Control
1x Warranty Card
1x VGA cable
Pictures
Projector
Top View
Front view
Top view again but different
Kinda back view but also top
Same but different
Vent
Back at that top/back view
Ports
Kaiju
Price Comparison
$393 at Amazon
Warranty
90 Day Vivitek
Estimated Delivery
Monday, July 13th - Thursday, July 16th
Irkzilla!
I thought it was going to be something stupid…silly me
Nice color scheme today… Geaux Tigers!
What, no banana for scale?
Am I appropriately projecting my indifference to this deal?
I had one of these. It made shitty margaritas, too.
@alacrity
You used it wrong then.
@alacrity But did you use it to watch videos about making really awesome margaritas?
@awk strangely enough, no- but after too many margaritas it was left outside after showing Tron thru a fogbank. The fogbank won (and an awesome way to watch movies).
@PlacidPenguin oh. You’d not be surprised how often that happens.
DLP is still a thing?
@haydesigner 4k 3 chip HFR (high frame rate) DLP projectors are what you are most likely to encounter in ‘any given’ movie theater. Christie brand projectors are ubiquitous within the industry and the overwhelming vast majority of those units are DLP. A lot of Barco projectors are also DLP . . . To move away from DLP in a professional setting, and to retain 4k HFR, you’re tripling (or more) the budget for a projector.
@Pavlov you’re alive!
@Pantheist Yup.
@Pavlov good trip?
@Pantheist Still trippin. : )
@haydesigner DLP is all 2005, Barco has moved on to LASER projectors! Soon, they will even attach the, to the heads of sharks!
@Pavlov awesome
@ILikeMeh Im betting they are Laser DLPs…
Would this be any good for an SLA 3d printer build?
@partyplatypus there you go, forget the screen, just 3D print the movie.
“1024 x 768 native resolution”
meh.
Interesting, but I worry about the lamp on a refurb. Is it new, or been used 1,000 hours or what? And the doc says to go to the dealer to get a replacement part…
@eeterrific [Edited with update from the vendor] 99% are new or have less than 10 hours of use, 100% have less than 50 hours.
@eeterrific They usually do not replace the bulb in a refurb. That said, the life on these bulbs is a lot longer than they used to be . . . A replacement Vivitek bulb is right under $100, new. You can most likely find a third party bulb for half that.
https://www.amazon.com/Vivitek-Projector-Brand-Quality-Original/dp/B00C74M76C
EDIT: @dave says these bulbs are new! Awesome!
@Pavlov (Just updated to clarify a bit after getting details from the vendor.)
@dave These are an absolute bargain with new lamps.
@dave Thanks for the update, but how does the vendor know how many hours are on the bulb? Is there some sort of counter inside these?
@therealjrn Bulb hours are tracked by the projector’s firmware and can be viewed in the set-up menu or in tech mode (which you can find directions on how to gain access to on the interwebs) - the bulb in most all of these projectors are now are “chipped”, so the identifier is unique.
The vendor is most likely replacing them with brown box Vivitek factory fresh bulbs, if the vendor is not Vivitek themselves. Also, the new bulb may most likely come uninstalled, so you’ll be able to tell it is brand new.
Woot sold the D83 a short while back and the reviews that came back on those refurbs after delivery were excellent. One or two had minor issues, but most appeared to be brand new.
That should read D837 above ^^^^
Projecting a sale…meh be?
we need more lumens
@elpepe ONE POINT TWENTY-ONE JIGGALUMENS!
Already having a 2600 lumen Boxlight from my local school surplus for $35, it’s hard to justify $184. This one would definitely be quieter. I’m not fond of DLP tearing compared to the 3LCD Mitsubishi I had, but for $100 I’d probably have nabbed one of these as a spare. I dig out he projector about once every month for a game night.
holy cow. that’s a lot of moola man. Can I just come over to your place and watch?
this seems like a tax right off seriously.
Can’t stand DLP projectors. The rainbows bug me too much.
@j8048188
/giphy rainbow projection
So, does the beam zoom small enough to actually fit on the phone screen for watching a movie?
My contribution to this thread is a picture of my dinner last night.
@huja what the pho is that?
@warpedrotors faux pho. It’s a Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup. Much bolder broth than pho and wheat noodles rather than rice sticks/cellophane noodles.
If I want to project a 2.40 image, can this do it? I realize it will suck but I just want to kick the tires with different aspect ratios beamed onto the wall before committing to a screen. Not ready to buy the actual projector quite yet.
Meh certainly has a nack for offering products with little to no discernable reviews…
As the owner of three projectors I feel like I should probably comment.
Firstly, the resolution. If you’re thinking of not buying it because of the resolution, don’t. 1024x768 isn’t really that bad. At 9 feet away from a 42" screen it becomes “retina”, aka you physically cannot see the pixels. The same for 13 feet from a 60" screen, 18 feet/80", or 22’/100". (Metric: 2.8m away/1.1m diagonal, 4m/1.5m, 5.5m/2m) In comparison, a lot of other projectors are 800x600, which I think is a bit too low. (My projectors are 800x600, 1024x768, and 1024x768 3D DLP.)
Will you be watching stuff at that distance? Probably not (it’s not an absurd distance though) but still, you’ll probably be between 7 and 15 feet away. At that distance even a huge 100" screen looks pretty decent.
Secondly, I highly recommend buying a screen and not building one yourself. I’m a very DIY-type person (I built my own kitchen table, for crying out loud) but I’ve tried to build three projector screens and each has turned out poorly and was a massive time sink.
Thirdly, the price. It’s not half bad. If you were thinking about getting a projector, this is probably going to be roughly the same quality and $50-$100 lower than whatever you were going to get on Amazon/Bestbuy/etc. If you weren’t thinking about getting a projector, don’t buy this because it’s A FANTASTIC DEAL AND I MUST BUY NOW. If $184 is too much for you, go on Craigslist and you can probably score a used projector that’s similar for $120, albeit with a used bulb.
Which brings me to bulbs: you’re going to want a projector with a cheap bulb, because it WILL burn out and it will seriously suck when that happens. There are $350 projectors where the bulb costs $300, and yes that’s even if you go on eBay. This lamp says it lasts 3000 hours (4000 on Eco mode, which you will turn on exactly once, notice that it makes your image 0.1% dimmer, and permanently disable it because you’re addicted to brightness) so that’s 1500 2-hour movies. But then people leave it on overnight, forget to turn it off when you leave… and in a few years you need a new bulb.
Anyway, hope this helps people, I’m not sure if anyone’s even gonna read this.
@owenversteeg Meh, for the price of this projector when it is time to get a new bulb you can get a newer higher rez projector for the same price.
@owenversteeg
Do you know if 16:9 will look decent on a big 100" or 120" screen? It mentioned the native resolution is 4:3. So I wasn’t sure if the resolution went down if you set it up for 16:9.
@darkzrobe I doubt that. Projector prices have pretty much reached a bottom floor, since there’s a limit to how cheaply you can make some of these things. Unlike most consumer electronics, there aren’t any Chinese companies pushing down the price and the vast majority of Chinese no-name projectors are total garbage color and brightness wise.
@owenversteeg Disagree, the prices for VGA became the prices for SVGA. I bet you 3 years by now the price now for 1074x768 will be the 1280x800 or 1280x720 projectors.
@bpingel93 If you will be watching a lot of movies find a 16:10 projector (1280x800). Its the best of both worlds.
Otherwise if you watch 16:9 stuff on a 4:3 you have huge black bars on top and bottom.
@darkzrobe thabk you for saving me the time and money finding that out for myself. I’ll take your advice and look for something better suited to my needs.
@bpingel93 The resolution goes down if you’re viewing anything at an aspect ratio that’s not the default, but so does the screen area. For 16:9 you have the same width, but you have fewer vertical pixels. Your image would be 1024x576, but since both the projected image and the screen area got shorter, the number of pixels per inch remains the same. That is, of course, assuming that the screen size is the same. A 16:9 120" screen is 6200 sq. in., and a 4:3 120" screen is 7000 sq. in.
So basically: as long as you use the same screen, switching between 4:3 and 16:9 will keep your pixel density/“retina-ness” the same.
I personally would not go for a 120" screen. I’d go for 42", 60", 80", maybe 100" but not 120". Keep in mind that as size increases brightness also drops off. A 120" 16:9 image is 6200 sq. in. A 100" 16:9 image is 4200 sq. in, and an 80" 16:9 image is 2730 sq. in. 80-100" is where screens start to look impressively big, and humans are bad at perceiving size, so the difference between 80 and 100-120 is smaller than you think. A 120" image is almost 2.5x larger in area than an 80" image - thus giving you significantly worse resolution and brightness - but it only looks 50% larger to our brains. Brightness is harder to calculate but still important, and a 2.5x larger image will really hurt that. A 120" image becomes retina at 27 feet away.
If you’re trying to make an image “pop” more, or make the screen look bigger, you can also try a screen with a black border. Also try speakers, just two will be fine, each on opposite sides pointed towards the audience. Those two things will make an 80" setup blow away a 120" setup anytime.
If you’re really sensitive about screen size, but want to keep the image quality of an 80" screen, you can also just lie. I’ve had friends try to guess my screen sizes for various screens I’ve had up and they’re usually way off. If you say your 80" screen is 100" I really doubt anyone will be able to tell. Like I said: people are really bad at guessing things.
Okay, I’ve pretty much written a novel for Meh here. Hey Meh, want to throw me one of these? I’ve been such a good VMP lately with my comments. Pretty please? I’ll write nice, detailed things about it all over the Internet.
@darkzrobe Yeah, but how long did VGA to SVGA take? Many, many years. I don’t think it will happen in 3. What will drive it? There isn’t any competition from any of the little brands that drove progress for a while. I’ve had projectors for years and progress has been slow as molasses.
@bpingel93 1280x800 is usually considerably more expensive. Keep in mind that usually, the most important part of image quality is brightness, colors, and then resolution in third place. The only reason people fawn over resolution is because there are concrete numbers for it vs. brightness that can be inflated and colors that are hard to quantify.
The black bar argument isn’t terribly compelling, IMO. Remember that it’s a projector, not a TV, so you can adjust the screen to be either 4:3 or 16:9 (for a lot of screens, not all.) Boom, black bars gone. Black bars look worse in a TV because the TV is in a frame. I’ve never had an issue with black bars on projectors myself.
I wouldn’t entirely rule out this projector if I was you. It’s bright, it seems to have decent colors, it’s pretty cheap and it’s available now as opposed to some undefined time in the future when prices will fall for less common 1280x800 projectors.
@owenversteeg My original statement is dont let bulbs sway you on this projector. This is a good starter one. And if the bulb ever goes, you can look for another budget one which will most likely have better specs.
@darkzrobe Yep, I agree. Although I think the decision on whether to replace the bulb is one to push down the road - very dependent on the price of bulbs and how far projectors have come.
Would this be good for an outdoor Halloween display? Have a friend that bought one of the Atmosfear projectors and it sucks until super dark. You have to shine it on a completely white solid background. The neatest Halloween displays are projected onto semi transparent fabric so you can see the house beyond. That way the ghosts actually look real.
/youtube atmosfear witch
@RiotDemon I guess that depends on which Atmosfear projector your friend bought. Googling it, I found this guy, which looks to be a standard projector at 3k lumens:
https://m.bonanza.com/listings/atmosfearfx-ghostly-apparitions-windows-fx-dvd-and-3000-lumen-video-projector-/427616686?
And this guy, which appears to be a flaming piece of crap:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L5V5KCK/
If you have the second one, yes, the projector offered will be MASSIVELY brighter. That tiny projector probably would be okay to light up a pumpkin sized object, but not much more.
@smigit2002 yep. The second one. It would be good for the singing pumpkins they have, but seriously, it sucks.
This makes me hot!
@wew So many places to stick things into!
/giphy serious zestful skeleton
/image serious zestful skeleton
/youtube serious zestful skeleton
@Yoda_Daenerys Brilliant! And my favorite…
A white wall/sheet/vinyl siding to receive projected image? And that image as good as the best CRY TV?
CRY
Crap…cathode ray tube
/giphy chubby-perfunctory-iguana
would this work with a macbook pro? I’m not tech savvy at all but have been looking for a projector to use!
@bedani If your macbook pro has a video output thingie, then yes. You’ll need the cable to go between the two.
@bedani Just got it and it works with my late 2013 MBP. I didn’t really look at what resolution it chose for mirroring.
@therealjrn @bedani I used an HDMI cable.
I think DLP got the short end of the stick, especially in television tech. There are so many reasons it’s better than LCD…it’s faster, can’t be ‘ghosted’ or burned in, there are no convergence issues (on single-DMD systems, overwhelmingly used in consumer-level equipment), and if you were okay with not having a TV so flat it could be wall mounted, could be scaled up to stupid huge sizes. Mitsubishi sold a 92-inch DLP HDTV towards the end of the technology’s heyday, and it cost less than comparably sized, or even smaller, LCDs and plasmas. Our ‘daily driver’ TV is a 2008 Samsung HL61A750 61" full 1080p DLP set, and after nearly 10 years, the picture is still fantastic. I’d love to see DLP TVs make a comeback, because unlike plasma and CRT, the tech is still in use. I don’t think the public can be convinced to buy TVs again that aren’t paper-thin though. A shame.
Also, if you’ve got some spare time, Google how DLP technology works. It’s freaking awesome.
in for one
/giphy four prudent silk
ORDER # nice-oblong-wasp
Well this is certainly the most expensive thing that I’ve bought on Meh with no actual purpose. I may have to build a man-cave for the doghouse I’ll be in.
@sligett
/giphy man cave dog house
I’ve a 4500 lumen dlp projector, and generally can’t start my outdoor movies till around 8pm in the spring, and perhaps 8:30 in the summer.
@giolee88 Daylight Saving Time killed the drive-in.
@therealjrn … And video killed the radio star.
Mine has arrived. Can’t seem to get 3D working though. Anyone else have luck getting 3D going?
I just got mine. Great image quality but I wish audio over HDMI worked. Looks like I’ll be buying an HDMI audio splitter
@tomsliwowski That’s unfortunate. My audio is working fine via Chromecast and Apple TV (connected via HDMI). Not to be that guy but did you make sure the volume was turned up and that it was not muted via the remote? I don’t remember if this item sold out or not. If not maybe Meh could swap it out?
@sammypedram There is a very high (probably about 99%) chance that the issue is entirely on my end. I hooked up a Kangaroo PC that I was working on to test. I should have picked up the firetv stick that was about 10 feet away and tested it there. I’ll try again tonight. Thanks for confirming that the audio part does work for you.
Side question, have you tried using the RCA jacks or headphone audio jacks as output? Curious if I could hook this up to my LePai amp for outdoor use.
@tomsliwowski I did not try out headphones or RCA jacks. I only had a few minutes to test it out last night but I can look into it tonight. I primarily plan on using mine outdoors but if I ever try it indoors it could be interesting to connect it to my receiver to utilize surround sound . . .
Got mine yesterday. Brief trial of plugging in Chromecast and Apple TV, works awesome! I have ordered a 120 inch outdoor screen and a large Bluetooth speaker to try to create my own outdoor movie night experience. Excited to try it out!
Anyone else’s look like it was used as a hockey puck and smell like melting plastic or am I just that lucky?
@DJ the top of mine is pretty scratched up. But it works and the firmware said there are 0 hours on the bulb. (Ignoring the fact that there is a lamp counter reset option. I’m hoping they actually put a new bulb in there and didn’t just reset the counter).