@cengland0 I have a terribly I itchy trigger finger for this wonder of modern stupidity, and letting me know I would be getting it for less $$ than you did has started to cause a visible rash in the affected area. Do you have any additional, persuasive words to help get me through this?
@steponmeg The camera is gimmicky and doesn’t work well so I wouldn’t buy it if you think you’ll see anything in your house.
It cleans pretty good. It does get stuck on weird things but so does my roomba and neato. I have nothing but tile in the house so I’m good there. I do have a shag rug by my shower and it will get stuck on it every time so I need to pick it up and before I start the vacuum.
I like being able to say “Alexa, start the vacuum”. Neat feature but wasn’t a requirement. The app shows you a mapping of your house. I find that sometimes it misses entire sections of the house or a room. Don’t know why.
@unksol It’s not about the math. If I have a 5V battery charger for my phone that is advertised as 10,000 mAh, tell me what math you would use to get Watt-hours.
For one thing, that 10,000 mAh is probably not at the 5V output that the unit has. It’s probably at the nominal voltage of the internal battery which is 3.7 V for a LiPo but it might contain LiFe or Li-Ion instead. Who knows?!?!?! That voltage is then boosted with a loss factor to 5V. You will not get anywhere near 10,000 mAh at 5V out of that device.
Do you know the voltage of the battery in this vacuum where they are rating it at 2500 mAh? If not, then I’d like to know what math you propose I do to get the Watt-hours. Good luck with that.
@cengland0 let’s just start with 10MAh vs your insistance on 10,000 mah. Let’s just get the units on the right scale.
Second who gives a fuck. The valuable metrics are run time and suction. Huge battery with a shitty system will suck. Has nothing to do with your phone. And realistically if it has to run and recharge 3 times while you are not there why do you care
@cengland0@unksol Providing mAh with no voltage reference is like giving an engine’s power by stating just the max RPM. It’s just not useful without the other accompanying information and makes it easy to deceive the uninformed. You can try and make educated guesses, but in the end you’re the one who gets shafted because the units needed to make proper comparisons are missing.
Let’s say someone’s trying to hock a battery powered drill on a late night infomercial. They might say check out this new drill with a 20,000 mAh battery! You should buy it because it has 5,000 mAH more than the nearest competitor and costs less than 1/2 the price! But what they don’t tell you is that it’s 20,000 mAh @ 1.2v vs 15,000 mAh @ 3.7v. The supposedly smaller sounding battery actually has 230% more power, which can translate to more torque, RPM and/or runtime with all else being equal. But they don’t give you that critical info so you end up buying a Fisher Price expecting Dewalt performance.
Bought it and works ok. We run it every night while were asleep but never returns to the charger. We have it doing our main floor with the living room, dining area, and kitchen in our townhome. It’s like I come down and play “where is R2V2 stuck today?”. Yes, we named it that. Don’t judge.