@Fuzzalini Same, I’ve got a little bluetooth one, pop it in, pull up the app on my phone, it tells me it’s the same knock sensor issue I’ve been having forever, which is a known software bug with my car that I just haven’t gotten updated. I then clear the code.
@unksol not blinking. Just coming on briefly then off seemingly randomly. But it is becoming more frequent and it stays on for a few seconds instead of just blinking. Right now no discernible pattern (idling, accelerating, turning, cold/hot, highway, speed…)
No pending faults came up on reader, but I don’t know if that reader detects pending faults.
@cpierce The check engine light on my 2001 Tacoma is on due to a bad MAF sensor. I bought a replacement and couldn’t get the old one off. I finally got a closer look and saw that, somewhere earlier in its life, someone had broken one of the mounting posts and so had just welded the sensor in place.
So I’ve just dealt with having the light on the last couple of years.
My truck’s check engine light has been on for over two years now. I think it’s the catalytic converter 'cause I can smell something getting hot sometimes. I’ll get it fixed one of these days. Or it’ll catch fire and my insurance company can buy it from me. Meh.
/giphy truck fire
@narfcake@ThunderChicken You forgot gauges. Boy I miss having gauges. When my 1990 ghetto van (grand caravan, had from new) finally bit the dust 25 and 3 later I realized that the idiot lights that are now common are nearly useless since you can’t head off some problems before they happen by keeping an eye on the gauges. Had I a battery gauge on the 10 year old thing I bought I would have caught that the battery was dying before the van refused, out of the blue (to me anyway) refused to start because prior to that it started flawlessly.
In my 2004 Ford Taurus SEL, it is almost certainly a p0193 code, as this has been the only cause for the check engine light coming on for the last 4+ years. It usually goes away on its own within a day or three and when it doesn’t, I’ll eventually get around to clearing it.
The actual problem is either the connector for the sensor or the wiring to said connector. I know this because the engine has none of the other symptoms that would accompany a bad pressure regulator or bad sensor.
@phendrick You are quite welcome. I have found it to be useful when dealing with the check engine light on other people’s cars. (For mine too, though in my car’s case, I’ve not needed to look anything up for years.)
I had an engine monitor/programmer added to my 2008 Dodge diesel pickup when I had a major project done (new turbo, $5K ouch, but that included the $1K controller with EGT sensor, plus brake work. Dealer wanted almost $7K just for the turbo.). With the controller I can read the codes and clear. There was still an intermittent code. Intermittent self-test fail on the throttle body assembly. Could live with it but decided I deserved a check-engine-free experience, since I use it on long cross-country drives. So another $1K for that. Seems like a lot until you look at the prices they want for new trucks these days.
@zinimusprime It’s my first time mentioning it here. I bought it last year just before the tax rebate got cut. I wouldn’t have been able to afford it otherwise. Still a stretch with monthly payments, but I don’t regret it.
In July I had to get a 2012 Tiguan inspected. Check engine light has been on for 6+ months (Turbo Charger issue, already replaced the diverter, no luck) Anyways, I reset the check engine light with the OBD reader and crossed my fingers the check engine light would stay off long enough for us to pass inspection. And it did! Came back on about 30 minutes later. whew