@ColeSloth Sounds like you got a pretty good deal elsewhere. And if you’re not a “Mehmber” and got free shipping at the other place, it’s a wash. But I’m sure you realize all that. J/s, even if you overspent by $5… others have paid a lot more and gave it to Walmart!
Despite their small size, these things (not this brand particularly, as I have no experience with them) really can start your car when your battery is dead. You do not have to wait an hour for AAA or find a willing and available friend (or stranger). You can also be a hero and start someone else who is stuck. I carry one in each car.
@andyw I agree! They are great!
The Tacklife one I got here was able to easily start my husband’s Shelby GT500 from completely dead (it had been sitting a while) and it started the car with no problem! He didn’t think it would have enough power to start it, so he was impressed, lol!
I need 2 more, so I think I’ll grab them tonight in case they sell out.
@k4evryng they’re almost the exact same but with one main difference. The t8 here has an analog shut off switch that is supposed to allow it to hold a charge for months longer (one year) than the t6. Otherwise, almost same dimensions, accessories, ports, cranking amps, and mah battery size. Just the t8 gets you the power switch and a tiny useless compass.
@k4evryng@yakkoTDI Size and output is no difference. The only pertinent difference is that the t8 has an analog shut off switch that allows it to stay charged while stored not in use for up to a year, and the t6 does not, which causes the t6 to very slowly drain power over swveral months.
@ColeSloth@k4evryng Do you have cranking amp info? I can’t find it in the product description here or any other store site. I just bought a weego 44s with 440 cranking amps and it barely turns over my 6.1 litre.
I have four of a different model from this brand, and they work well. This is a good price for such a unit. Just a couple of weeks ago, I used one to jump start a car that had resisted being cranked with jumper cables. The Tacklife jumper box spun it over easily.
I recently went outside after a snowstorm and found that my car battery was dead. “Cool”, I thought, “Time to test my portable jump starter.” Which was in the back of the car. Which has an electric lock, and no obvious backup key hole.
@danN58 I haven’t seen one yet that didn’t have an emergency key for the driver’s door hidden inside the fob. Usually, the slot for the key is in or just below the door handle, and not particularly prominent. In snow weather, it might be hidden by ice.
@danN58 WE just had that problem. The jump starter was in the underfloor compartment of our Subaru Ascent. I could not open the rear lid after getting the car open with the key from the fob. If I had gotten to the trunk area, I doubt the cover of the compartment would open. I got the jumper from the other car and it started the Ascent (it was a littlel reluctant to start since it had not been used in a month).
Now I keep the Ascent’s jumper under the driver’s seat from the 2nd row.
@danN58 Could be worse. Some late-70s Peugeots had electrically-operated door locks, latches, and windows, with the result that if the main fuse popped disconnecting all power, you couldn’t easily open the doors or windows from inside the car because the manual release was well hidden. The problem has now been recreated in a certain other line…
Fine I’m in for 2. We had someone save our butts with something like this a few years back. Went to IKEA, the boy wanted to stay in the car, when we got back to the car, he had turned on the ignition with the fan running and radio on and we were stuck. A rando saw us and got us started with something like this. Better than waiting 2+ hours for roadside assistance.
My first Meh purchase. Just got one to replace one I can’t find. I like to keep one in my m/c saddle bag for emergencies and to start my tractor during the winter. For $40 with shipping, I hope it’s more than just a phone charger. BTW Meh, no free shipping for Prime customers?
@gadgetlam I was under the impression Meh was a subsidiary of woot, that they created to try to bring back the magic of the original (pre- Amazon) woot of days long past. No? My username came from my woot profile.
They also like to kill their hostages. I will never forget how they bought and killed Shoefitr, a tool used across competitors that 3D scanned shoes and compared how the shoe you currently wear differs with the shoe you are looking at. The next best thing to actually trying on the shoe. FU jeffy b
I bought one of these from Meh previously. It is legit. The only think I kinda don’t like about it is the friggin barrel charger. 15v at 1 amp. Really? that 15 watts could have been delivered via a standard USB port. Even if you have an old charger, I would rather do 5-10 watts than have to keep the proprietary Tacklife charger around.
@ohhwell Easier to charge the higher voltage pack with a higher voltage source. That said, you can find a USB-C PD 15v cable on AliE that would allow you to charge this from a PD-capable charger that can do 15V.
@ohhwell@werehatrack The cables I’m speaking about have PD trigger circuits in the USB-C plug itself, so downstream from the plug is just 15VDC (or whatever voltage trigger board you buy). I’ve used several of these (9V and 12V mostly) to create PD power cables for classic game consoles, like my Sega Genesis and Nintendo Wii. (For the Wii, I had to lop off the barrel plug and add the proprietary Wii DC plug, but that’s available on AliE, too.)
I’ve bought them from Ali before but only with buck converters in them – none with boost. You can get them to work with regular 5V non-PD capable chargers and have the buck converter to do the voltage reduction or a boost converter to increase the voltage. PD versions of them exist too so you would be using a PD compatible charger to regulate the voltages.
@AySz88 “Up to” is the biggest lie in marketing. Ten minutes is within the range of “up to 12 months”, since no lower value is specified. I’ve taken to decoding “up to” as meaning “no way in hell will it get close to”.
@werehatrack Sure, without reviews to verify, every claim is fishy these days. Even strong claims like “guaranteed to” or longer warranty can rely on the idea that most people won’t bother to claim it, with a jacked up price to cover the few returns and pocketing the difference. On the other side of the spectrum, CYA-culture likes to water down claims everywhere, regardless of fact. Definitely a “Market for Lemons”-type situation.
@AySz88 And to be fair, none of the four Tacklife packs here has shown any significant reduction in charge either sitting in the house or in a vehicle for 4 months. I’d call that pretty good, actually. Particularly since my three old-style heavy jumper boxes generally have to be charged at least once every 60 days in order to be useful at all.
@bla5t0ff given that mine jumped a 2021 Silverado yesterday, I think that AAA dude was Selling Something. (OTGH, I’ve seen some really crap jumper boxes that couldn’t start a '67 Beetle, too.)
One thing, though; if memory serves, the instruction booklet is printed in a font so tiny that only a tardigrade can read it without glasses, did you know that you’ve got to push the square yellow button on the side of the black plug just before you crank the car? And some of them won’t function without hitting the main “on” switch on the side, though mine don’t seem to care about that so much.
@bla5t0ff Was it a situation that needed “boost mode”? When battery level is extremely low, you must use that to bypass some protections because the unit can’t check whether you’ve connected the jumpers the right way around.
@bla5t0ff I wonder if the thing they were selling was to look useful so AAA keeps calling an “actual” mechanic, vs just hiring a joe schmoe to deliver one of these to you. The “tried their own” bit really smells like a performance.
@AySz88 I don’t know who they were. Some random guy driving a roadside rescue truck. Like one that can tow your car, equipped with a separate car jumping mechanism on the side, etc. I have no idea if he was a mechanic, was with AAA directly, or subcontracted, they never mentioned. He just got my car running and left.
@brakeforbeer Good point; Tacklife has essentially dried up and blown away at this point, which is why all of their stuff is being sold by closeout sites. Basically, there is no manufacturer warranty to rely on here. However, the experience of quite a few people on this particular site has been that this is a good product, so if it works when you get it, it’s probably good enough. And if it doesn’t work when you get it, then the seller will cover it. You’ll probably only get a refund, though.
@ThyProphet Given that yesterday I used one of the Tacklife T6 packs to start a PT Cruiser whose battery would not even light up the dash panel after sitting for 2 weeks, and the Tacklife worked just fine, I think you’re incorrect about that. Many of these packs have a different problem, in that they will cut out of circuit as soon as the alternator kicks in, and if the battery in the car is so dead that it appears to be out of circuit, the engine will die again when the booster pack switches off. But that’s not the same problem.
@ejames@ThyProphet@werehatrack Yup…I can confirm that these work. The T6 was able to start a Shelby GT500 that had been dead and sitting for @ 2 months (my husband doesn’t drive it during the winter, and something in it drains the battery, even though he disconnects what he can).
Anyway…it didn’t work the first 2 times he tried it, but he didn’t know about the boost setting. When he used that, it started immediately. It’s a big engine and he was sure it wouldn’t work, so he was surprised and impressed that it did.
I bought the T6 back in November. I’ve had to use it a bunch. It works great. Was able to jump my Ford Expedition 6 times before having to recharge it.
Hopefully this one is just as reliable. Now i’ll have one in each vehicle.
The T6 gets a perfect 5/7 stars.
Behold the solution to the infuriating “How The Fuck Do I Make All This Crap Fit Back In Here???” issue…
Cut away that zippered netting, and you can actually see what you’re doing. Just make sure to open and close the whole thing with the brand imprint on the bottom, or swap the shaped foam insert to the other half of the clamshell so that the battery pack is in the “top”, and you can open it the expected “I forgot” way without spilling everything.
OBTW, here’s one of the new batch in its modded case with the battery pack moved to the top shell and the accessories in the bottom. No @carl669 vocab needed when repacking! (Using some anyway is optional. Personally, I gave it a “fuck, yeah!”)
Does anybody know what the polarity out of the barrel connector is? I just got mine and didn’t even realize it had 12v out, happy bonus! I’d like to make a barrel to Anderson connector, but I don’t really want to fry anything, or re-pin my connector if I don’t have to. I guess I could get out the Fluke, but do I have to?
@louisdi It’s possible that the charging brick is the problem; try using the lighter-plug cord to charge it in the car. But in any event, your next stop is meh.com/support. One bad thing makes whole thing bad, from a warranty perspective.
I checked the power brick and it is putting out the expected voltage so it appears to me that it’s just been sitting on the shelf too long and lipo ran down past the point where the protection circuitry will let it charge. Bummer. This was something I actually needed, unlike most of my meh purchases.
Mine arrived today, and also appears dead-ish. Only displays Lo if turned on when connected to the charger. If no charger, no display. The wall charger is putting out just over 15v unloaded.
I’ll leave it on the charger overnight, but I’m not optimistic.
My track record with meh stuff is dropping rapidly.
I was apprehensive about getting these figuring they’d be DOA, but surprisingly the two I ordered arrived with 85% charge. Topping it off took a while (via AC) but did get to 100%. Haven’t had a chance to test them out otherwise but this was a good sign.
Mine was DOA. Meh refunded me quickly. Always great support. I figured before chucking it in the recycle bin I’d see if the lipo could be revived. Turns out it can!
Typical caveats here: You CAN burn down your house if you do this wrong, so don’t be silly about it. Also you do need a lipo charger that most people aren’t going to have lying around unless you’re into hobbies that need big batteries.
I opened it up and disconnected the balance lead to the circuit board inside and connected the battery leads up to my R/C battery charger as a NIMH battery and put a very low current (0.1 amps) into it until it read 10.5 volts. Took it off the R/C battery charger and reconnected the balance lead to the circuit board and tried the included AC charger again. It showed 1% and charged itself up to 100% after a couple of hours.