@thomasaelliott Right, its 3 pin and grounded, but then what is the extra metal pin for? Just a tab to stick into the wall to keep it supported for the weight?
@bph I'd guess that's a switch so it knows it's actually plugged it in properly, instead of just plugging it into an extension cord and leaving the other ground plug exposed.
@bph I think you unscrew the wallplate, then screw that into the hole that the wall plate used to use. It keeps it secure against the wall... now if you have 'deco' (rectangle cutout) wallplates... well you might still be in luck, the actual plug assembly, under the wallplate, usually has deco plate holes (top bottom) and the standard hole (center).
@bph hell if I know what the extra pin is for, I know the extra pin looks like it'll be touching the outlet cover screw, which is also grounded, theoretically it could give more capacity to the grounding limits. Or it could just be a switch, who knows.
@bph there are two ground pins for double grounding, as if that'll make any difference, I just noticed the black thing in the middle is a screw so it will hold itself up if that's what you were asking about.
@thomasaelliott Ah it looks like you do remove the faceplate and screw it right in over it and it goes into both grounding pins but only the top power ones. Interesting. Might grab a few to setup near electronics where I don't use one of my APC batterys or such but they seem awfully ugly for it.
@bph@thismyusername I've got two of these from the last sale. You don't need to remove the faceplate (shouldn't, in my opinion or you'll have a faceplate-width gap where you can see the exposed outlets).
To install, you plug the Pro 200 into the outlets. The power comes from the top outlet set of prongs, the bottom ground is just to help keep it in place. If you want extra stability to keep it in place when you're unplugging things from it, you can remove the screw from the middle of your wallplate and use the extra-long black screw included with the Pro 200 to attach it to the outlet box. I didn't bother with the screw and I've never had a problem with the Pro 200 unplugging from the wall, even when pulling really hard to get my laptop adapter out.
The more I think about this (and after looking at the rectangle plugs) the anchor screw would only work on the wallplugs with a center screw holding the cover... the rectangle ones don't seem to have a center screw at all. For square plates you would simply pull the retainer and back the screw out and it should be fine (at least @mikey has had luck with no anchor screw :) )
@jaremelz Uhh... uhh... I'm so glad we can curse here because that may just be the fucking hottest 6 seconds to be posted on meh. Fuck fuck fuckity fuck. Damn.
Forget the surge protector crap, real electronic aficionados know a UPS (preferably one that handles at least 5 power quality errors) is the only real way to protect your costly electronics.
I am not so sure I'd want to buy a refurb surge protector. I mean these aren't just dented box models right, but used and failed and "brought back to factory specs"..? Hmmm..
@IcedCorn I would guess that many were unused returns. One, the Monster markup, meaning these were horrendously overpriced. Two ... outlets only. Three, the screw in the middle means it doesn't work with Decora type outlets.
Minimum specifications Four key features to look for in an outlet surge suppressor:
UL 1449 listed. Conforms to Underwriter Laboratory’s standard UL 1449 for transient voltage surge suppressors. UL 1449 listing is required for safety. UL listing as a “power tap” is not sufficient.
Peak surge current. Also referred to as maximum transient current or maximum surge If you have surge suppression at your meter or circuit panel, 36,000 amperes is sufficient. Without surge suppression at your meter or circuit panel, look for 54,000 amperes or higher.
UL 1449 suppressed voltage rating. Also referred to as clamping voltage 330 volts gives the best protection; higher voltage ratings give less protection.
Energy rating (joules)
700 joules or more; the higher the joules, the better Since testing methods for energy rating are not standardized, don’t base your choice on a joules energy rating alone.
@mwarren good stuff. And strongly implied - even if you have a hole home surge protector at the panel, using them individually offers further protection, for example from unfriendly stuff within the home.
Almost worth it only for the suspense when trying to see what comes up on G images when that's entered. Good ole George W Bush holding a baby...not kidding.
I bit, partly because I need something for my HEPA air purifiers, and partly to see how badly the order generator was going to mess with my mind. I got silky-dopey-swashbuckler, and 'Unknown Autobot' was suggested. No, just no. Therefore:
Wow - why all the hate for cheap power protection?
Are they the best thing ever? Of course not, but they can save your gear from shitty pole power for a long time, or a lightning strike at least a once. Totally worth $6.
Even a shit powerstrip with a thermistor is better than nothing (as long as you know if its still not blown)
And for all you "my UPS was superior before it was cool" folks - if you didn't spend five or six hundred on it you're probably feeding your gear a nice, tasty square wave when its inverting. So good luck with that, particularly for TVs and audio gear.
These things are ideal in certain situations - like mine, where I have some expensive appliances (sous vide immersion cooker) that get "powered on" for days at a time, and I can't keep a cinder-block sized UPS on my countertop (well, I could, but i don't live in a trailer in Appalachia).
@narfcake meh - as a refurb Monster has already made their cash - at this point the only one people are "sticking it to" here is meh.com.
Frankly, this long/far into the "Monster is a shit company" saga on the internet, anyone that buys their shit at retail sort of deserves what they get.....
Beats headphones are garbage - every model. They don't get half the hate that Monster does. At least for a reasonable "realistic selling price" most Monster gear is pretty decent - unlike Beats, which at 1/2 price are still priced 8X their value. I have 2 power conditioners for which I paid about the same amount - one from Monster and one from Pannamax, and under the hood they're both about the same quality. So, while I have no love lost for Monster's business tactics, I similarly have zero qualms about buying their shit at a deep discount. Like this.
@Pufferfishy@narfcake I like to think I have fairly strong ethics. But my ethics < the monster evilness if the deal is right (and refurb-appropriate).
Regarding sale-once-removed from Monster point, it could be argued that any sale of Monster stuff, even down the road furthers their brand. The extreme case: if their used stuff was completely unsaleable that would not be good for new sales.
Double grounds are a standard feature for devices that screw on to duplex outlets. It aligns the central screw. There would be many safety issues with doubling any of the other pins.
I am in the market for a power filter, but I want one I can mount inside the case of the noisy device. I have a microwave oven that spews radio frequency interference. It is in a sealed metal box, so the RFI must be radiated through the power cord.
Note the oven is not leaking microwaves, it is leaking stuff that interferes with FM radio. This could be near 91.7Mhz or near the intermediate frequency, IF, which is usually 10.7 Mhz.
If people are curious as to what's inside one of these, I will do a teardown if someone buys me one.
@hamjudo hah! Before the advent of multi-frequency wifi, we could not use our wifi devices within 6-8 feet of our pretty new Panasonic microwave.
We also have a wonderful sounding (now old) GE under-cabinet CD/radio in the kitchen that is too noisy to listen to whenever the outside motion security light turns on or the PC that is about 15 feet away wakes up! (Marginally bad caps?)
@uwacn I haven't stumbled across a ferrite large enough for that cord, it's thick.
Before I was looking for such a thing, I seem to recall regularly coming across old electronics with ferrites. This is probably my faulty memory dredging up stuff from my ancient past.
RF engineering isn't my specialty, so I have no clue what I need, other than it has to fit on the cord. Do you have a link for where I can buy something suitable, or know what specs I need?
Specs
Condition: Refurbished
Warranty: 1 Year Monster
Estimated Delivery: 11/3 - 11/5
Shipping: $5 or free with VMP
What’s in the Box?
1x Monster Pro 200 PowerCenter
Pictures
Side view
Back view
Price Comparison
$49.95 List, $39.95 (For Similar) at Monster (cable not included)
$19.99 (Refurbished) at Amazon
Find a relevant price comparison? Please share it in a comment in this thread
Warranty
90 days
I stayed in for this?
@thismyusername
@jaremelz
Refurb
They're really kicking us in the joules with this one.
@jaremelz It's a powerful deal.
@jaremelz and it hertz
@jaremelz you need to protect your joules next time.
@AlexNoVA did they get you all amped up for nothing?
@Thumperchick I wonder if the same crowd surged over here like they did for the fuku.
@jaremelz I'm sure they did. Resistance is futile.
@jaremelz Watt are you all waiting for then?
@jaremelz Yeah, I doubt they'll see a spike in sales on this one.
@Thumperchick Yep. Feeling really discharged now.
@AlexNoVA This one just doesn't have that spark, you know?
@FSSZilla A bunch of puns? What a shock.
@jaremelz Sorry, but ohm not biting at this deal.
@jaremelz I can't seem to get amped up about this deal.
Better grab this before it's too late.
About 23 hours and 59 minutes from now should be soon enough.
So amped for this. Meh.
Baby feet?
Are you supposed to ground the copper tab on the back to something or just shove it onto the wall? Actually grounding it feels like too much effort.
@bph the round pin at the bottom of the plug fits into the bottom hole of the outlet. The bottom hole of the outlet is ground, or atleast should be.
@thomasaelliott Right, its 3 pin and grounded, but then what is the extra metal pin for? Just a tab to stick into the wall to keep it supported for the weight?
@bph I'd guess that's a switch so it knows it's actually plugged it in properly, instead of just plugging it into an extension cord and leaving the other ground plug exposed.
@bph I think you unscrew the wallplate, then screw that into the hole that the wall plate used to use. It keeps it secure against the wall... now if you have 'deco' (rectangle cutout) wallplates... well you might still be in luck, the actual plug assembly, under the wallplate, usually has deco plate holes (top bottom) and the standard hole (center).
@bph hell if I know what the extra pin is for, I know the extra pin looks like it'll be touching the outlet cover screw, which is also grounded, theoretically it could give more capacity to the grounding limits. Or it could just be a switch, who knows.
@bph there are two ground pins for double grounding, as if that'll make any difference, I just noticed the black thing in the middle is a screw so it will hold itself up if that's what you were asking about.
@thomasaelliott Ah it looks like you do remove the faceplate and screw it right in over it and it goes into both grounding pins but only the top power ones. Interesting. Might grab a few to setup near electronics where I don't use one of my APC batterys or such but they seem awfully ugly for it.
@bph @thismyusername I've got two of these from the last sale. You don't need to remove the faceplate (shouldn't, in my opinion or you'll have a faceplate-width gap where you can see the exposed outlets).
To install, you plug the Pro 200 into the outlets. The power comes from the top outlet set of prongs, the bottom ground is just to help keep it in place. If you want extra stability to keep it in place when you're unplugging things from it, you can remove the screw from the middle of your wallplate and use the extra-long black screw included with the Pro 200 to attach it to the outlet box. I didn't bother with the screw and I've never had a problem with the Pro 200 unplugging from the wall, even when pulling really hard to get my laptop adapter out.
The more I think about this (and after looking at the rectangle plugs) the anchor screw would only work on the wallplugs with a center screw holding the cover... the rectangle ones don't seem to have a center screw at all. For square plates you would simply pull the retainer and back the screw out and it should be fine (at least @mikey has had luck with no anchor screw :) )
Stop selling Mon***r crap -- they suck as a company, to sue happy.
No extra outlets? Meh.
I have to get up for a flight in 4 hours, why did I stay up for this? Totally wasn't worth it.
@thomasaelliott they have conditioned us... sometimes it works out... this time it didn't. :)
Safe travels!
Yo dawg, we heard you like power outlets so we got power outlets for your power outlets
Do you guys not realize by now that Saturday and Sunday stuff always suck? Every weekend it is the same "Why did I stay up for this crap"
I plan to use this when traveling- hotel room outlets can be sketchy.
On a different note... Today I've clicked the meh face exactly one year straight. And now I ponder whether I should continue... Yeah, I'm sure I will.
@cinoclav nice!
@cinoclav Cheers!
@cinoclav kudos. Might be cool to stop at exactly 365 and start another 365. Or not.
@jaremelz That's a unique tie rack.
@Fish_Kungfu Yes, yes she....it....uh, yes.
@jaremelz Uhh... uhh... I'm so glad we can curse here because that may just be the fucking hottest 6 seconds to be posted on meh. Fuck fuck fuckity fuck. Damn.
@cinoclav You're welcome!
"Double grounded"... load of crap.
A refurbished surge protector? Lol.
What do these surge protectors and a DeLorean have in common? They both have already Been hit a couple times by lightning.
@jzmacdaddy dead man's party!
Forget the surge protector crap, real electronic aficionados know a UPS (preferably one that handles at least 5 power quality errors) is the only real way to protect your costly electronics.
Raising my EE eyebrow (it's the left one, FYI) at that double-ground gimmick.
Plugging this deal
I am not so sure I'd want to buy a refurb surge protector. I mean these aren't just dented box models right, but used and failed and "brought back to factory specs"..? Hmmm..
@IcedCorn I would guess that many were unused returns. One, the Monster markup, meaning these were horrendously overpriced. Two ... outlets only. Three, the screw in the middle means it doesn't work with Decora type outlets.
@narfcake ok that makes more sense. I feel better.
Not enough to buy it though :)
Godda UPS, don't need no wimpy surge pertecter.. Sell it to a alabame hillbilly to pertect his Atari flashback2.
No UL 1449, no deal.
From https://www.portlandgeneral.com/safety_outages/surge_protection/products/protection_outlet.aspx
@mwarren good stuff. And strongly implied - even if you have a hole home surge protector at the panel, using them individually offers further protection, for example from unfriendly stuff within the home.
@mwarren I wish I could star this twice.
Refurbished Surge Protection.
I can't believe there hasn't been a used condom joke yet.
mad-elated-bushbaby
Almost worth it only for the suspense when trying to see what comes up on G images when that's entered. Good ole George W Bush holding a baby...not kidding.
I bit, partly because I need something for my HEPA air purifiers, and partly to see how badly the order generator was going to mess with my mind. I got silky-dopey-swashbuckler, and 'Unknown Autobot' was suggested. No, just no. Therefore:
NOPE, that's not how this works... that's not how any of this works... Yall people need to take an electronics class
Wow - why all the hate for cheap power protection?
Are they the best thing ever? Of course not, but they can save your gear from shitty pole power for a long time, or a lightning strike at least a once. Totally worth $6.
Even a shit powerstrip with a thermistor is better than nothing (as long as you know if its still not blown)
And for all you "my UPS was superior before it was cool" folks - if you didn't spend five or six hundred on it you're probably feeding your gear a nice, tasty square wave when its inverting. So good luck with that, particularly for TVs and audio gear.
These things are ideal in certain situations - like mine, where I have some expensive appliances (sous vide immersion cooker) that get "powered on" for days at a time, and I can't keep a cinder-block sized UPS on my countertop (well, I could, but i don't live in a trailer in Appalachia).
corny-curvy-breakfast
@Pufferfishy The hate isn't for a $6 surge protector. The hate is for this surge protector's company that preys on their customers.
@narfcake meh - as a refurb Monster has already made their cash - at this point the only one people are "sticking it to" here is meh.com.
Frankly, this long/far into the "Monster is a shit company" saga on the internet, anyone that buys their shit at retail sort of deserves what they get.....
Beats headphones are garbage - every model. They don't get half the hate that Monster does. At least for a reasonable "realistic selling price" most Monster gear is pretty decent - unlike Beats, which at 1/2 price are still priced 8X their value. I have 2 power conditioners for which I paid about the same amount - one from Monster and one from Pannamax, and under the hood they're both about the same quality. So, while I have no love lost for Monster's business tactics, I similarly have zero qualms about buying their shit at a deep discount. Like this.
@Pufferfishy @narfcake I like to think I have fairly strong ethics. But my ethics < the monster evilness if the deal is right (and refurb-appropriate).
Regarding sale-once-removed from Monster point, it could be argued that any sale of Monster stuff, even down the road furthers their brand. The extreme case: if their used stuff was completely unsaleable that would not be good for new sales.
"Monster cable..." /immediate meh
Double grounds are a standard feature for devices that screw on to duplex outlets. It aligns the central screw. There would be many safety issues with doubling any of the other pins.
I am in the market for a power filter, but I want one I can mount inside the case of the noisy device. I have a microwave oven that spews radio frequency interference. It is in a sealed metal box, so the RFI must be radiated through the power cord.
Note the oven is not leaking microwaves, it is leaking stuff that interferes with FM radio. This could be near 91.7Mhz or near the intermediate frequency, IF, which is usually 10.7 Mhz.
If people are curious as to what's inside one of these, I will do a teardown if someone buys me one.
@hamjudo hah! Before the advent of multi-frequency wifi, we could not use our wifi devices within 6-8 feet of our pretty new Panasonic microwave.
We also have a wonderful sounding (now old) GE under-cabinet CD/radio in the kitchen that is too noisy to listen to whenever the outside motion security light turns on or the PC that is about 15 feet away wakes up! (Marginally bad caps?)
@hamjudo To suppress noise radiated (or received through) the power cord, try adding some ferrite noise suppressors.
@uwacn I haven't stumbled across a ferrite large enough for that cord, it's thick.
Before I was looking for such a thing, I seem to recall regularly coming across old electronics with ferrites. This is probably my faulty memory dredging up stuff from my ancient past.
RF engineering isn't my specialty, so I have no clue what I need, other than it has to fit on the cord. Do you have a link for where I can buy something suitable, or know what specs I need?
An outlet splitter that consumes two outlets to provide two outlets! Sign me up!
Unless this thing can handle a lightning strike, I don't really have a use for it. :-\
Come Out, Ye Black and Tans
- performed by various artists, although the Irish Descendants do a great job.
Where is the shampoo, and do I have to repeat after I rinse this device.