Personally I’d take the itching powder, and set up a distribution system wherein the powder gets distributed proportionally to the size of each room, and any occupant gets to enjoy the powder when the AC is turned on, as opposed to keeping it all in one room.
Someone changed their mind. The pedestal sink was centered where the box is now but the vanity he is installing centers on the stud. So it looks to me like I can just turn off the breaker, remove that screw, and reposition the box over the stud. Maybe I can even get two screws in there. Am I missing something? I don’t want to burn the house down.
@sammydog01 is this a wall box or a ceiling box? Some light fixtures aren’t crazy picky about where the box is because they have separate anchors for the wall.
Otherwise, the box that @narfcake shows above is the easiest one. It’s called a saddle box. The sides have little holes you knock out to put the wiring through.
@RiotDemon@sammydog01 Whether this is on the wall or ceiling, the issue is the amount of space within the box. The pancake box may be insufficient to code.
Is there any stamping on that box of its internal volume (cu. in.)? Per the National Electric Code (NEC), you need 2 cu. in. per 14 gauge wire, 2.25 cu. in. per 12 gauge wire. A 14-2 NM (Romex) would require 6 cu. in., 12-2 would require 6.75 cu. in.
@narfcake@RiotDemon The wires were actually out of the box when I removed the fixture so this probably isn’t big enough for code. I wouldn’t put it past a builder to move a sink to avoid dealing with that stud. I’ll check out that saddle box, thanks for the recommendation, but it may just be time for an electrician.
@narfcake@sammydog01 If it’s a 4" diameter box, you’ve got your 6 cubes. I’ve seen plenty of light bar fixtures installed with no box – just a Romex connector in the back plate.
My light fixture boxes have never been that shallow to fit over the stud and flush with the wall. Looks like that is what that box is made for though. Just make sure you don’t pinch the wires between the box and stud when you move it. Hopefully your new fixture has space for the extra wires to be safely hidden after making the connection.
I thought the box had to go over the wire so I dug out a bunch of wallboard. Then I realized it had to go in the middle of the box so I dug out a bunch more wallboard. Then I realized the wire is too shallow in the stud for the box to fit and I have a big fucking hole in the wall.
ETA:
For covering such a cutout, I find it’s easier to trim out the hole and use a new piece of sheet rock with a bevel cut so the new piece won’t just fall in. Screw in the new piece onto the stud, just above and below the cutout.
@RiotDemon@narfcake Instead of following your advice I bought a patch big enough to cover the whole thing. I figured I could cut a hole in the middle. Except it is made out of sheet metal. So I used every tool in the box and cut out a circle like shape and slapped it on the wall. It’s kind of wavy on the right but I’m beyond caring right now. The image is probably sideways again but fuck it. Thanks!
My husband decided to redo our powder room. My assignment is wall prep. I finally got the nerve to cap off the light fixture and this is what I found:
@sammydog01
Personally I’d take the itching powder, and set up a distribution system wherein the powder gets distributed proportionally to the size of each room, and any occupant gets to enjoy the powder when the AC is turned on, as opposed to keeping it all in one room.
@sammydog01 Powder room? ya all muss be rich!
@mfladd wrong kind of powder.
@RiotDemon
Sometimes I prefer to let @mfladd remain ignorant. It seems kind.
@PlacidPenguin @RiotDemon I just soak in a tub of ignorant bliss. It’s comforting.
Someone changed their mind. The pedestal sink was centered where the box is now but the vanity he is installing centers on the stud. So it looks to me like I can just turn off the breaker, remove that screw, and reposition the box over the stud. Maybe I can even get two screws in there. Am I missing something? I don’t want to burn the house down.
@sammydog01 That should work.
/image you might need shims
@sammydog01 The principle is right, but the pancake isn’t the right box. Not enough space.
Use something like this:
https://m.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gang-Black-Plastic-Interior-New-Work-Standard-Saddle-Box-Ceiling-Electrical-Box/1057119
@sammydog01 is this a wall box or a ceiling box? Some light fixtures aren’t crazy picky about where the box is because they have separate anchors for the wall.
Otherwise, the box that @narfcake shows above is the easiest one. It’s called a saddle box. The sides have little holes you knock out to put the wiring through.
@RiotDemon @sammydog01 Whether this is on the wall or ceiling, the issue is the amount of space within the box. The pancake box may be insufficient to code.
Is there any stamping on that box of its internal volume (cu. in.)? Per the National Electric Code (NEC), you need 2 cu. in. per 14 gauge wire, 2.25 cu. in. per 12 gauge wire. A 14-2 NM (Romex) would require 6 cu. in., 12-2 would require 6.75 cu. in.
@narfcake @RiotDemon @sammydog01 - You probably need to change from a pancake box to a burger box.
@narfcake @RiotDemon The wires were actually out of the box when I removed the fixture so this probably isn’t big enough for code. I wouldn’t put it past a builder to move a sink to avoid dealing with that stud. I’ll check out that saddle box, thanks for the recommendation, but it may just be time for an electrician.
It’s on the wall.
@sammydog01 You’re fine to DIY this. Just make sure the power is off before working on it.
@narfcake Thanks- I’ll talk to the guys at Home Depot. Just fyi you’re not in my will.
@narfcake @sammydog01
Why is Will coming into this? I don’t see him contributing to the dialogue.
@sammydog01 like @narfcake says, you can totally diy this. The saddle box is easy.
@narfcake @sammydog01 If it’s a 4" diameter box, you’ve got your 6 cubes. I’ve seen plenty of light bar fixtures installed with no box – just a Romex connector in the back plate.
My light fixture boxes have never been that shallow to fit over the stud and flush with the wall. Looks like that is what that box is made for though. Just make sure you don’t pinch the wires between the box and stud when you move it. Hopefully your new fixture has space for the extra wires to be safely hidden after making the connection.
I thought the box had to go over the wire so I dug out a bunch of wallboard. Then I realized it had to go in the middle of the box so I dug out a bunch more wallboard. Then I realized the wire is too shallow in the stud for the box to fit and I have a big fucking hole in the wall.
Fuck, fuck, fuck, fuck, fuck. Fuck.
I’m going to go cry for a while.
@sammydog01 Awe, sorry that damn goat is causing so many difficulties.
@sammydog01 just pull the wire out of the hole in the stud, put the box over the stud, and put the wire in the side hole of the box or the back.
@sammydog01 how to fix the hole:
https://www.lowes.com/projects/repair-and-maintain/patch-and-repair-drywall/project
@RiotDemon Is that up to code?
@RiotDemon Let me rephrase that, is it safe? I doubt it was up to code before.
@sammydog01 right now it doesn’t look like it’s to code because it’s too close to the front of the stud without a nail plate.
As long as you use the wire holder at the back of the box, it’s fine.
@RiotDemon Good point. The wire holder has a clip so hopefully it’s OK. Thanks! This photo may or may not be sideways. I’m off to find some patches.
@sammydog01
ETA:
For covering such a cutout, I find it’s easier to trim out the hole and use a new piece of sheet rock with a bevel cut so the new piece won’t just fall in. Screw in the new piece onto the stud, just above and below the cutout.
@sammydog01 if you use the drywall piece patch from the link, use the old pancake box as a template to cut the hole.
@RiotDemon @narfcake Instead of following your advice I bought a patch big enough to cover the whole thing. I figured I could cut a hole in the middle. Except it is made out of sheet metal. So I used every tool in the box and cut out a circle like shape and slapped it on the wall. It’s kind of wavy on the right but I’m beyond caring right now. The image is probably sideways again but fuck it. Thanks!
@narfcake @sammydog01
Haha, at least it works.
Excited to see how “good” the final results look!