/showme diptych. left side: stylish 1990 supercomputer built from a thousand smart wifi dual plugs arranged in visually pleasing way. right side: the terminator
There’s a chance it can be reflashed to Tasmota, since it’s the pictured device on https://templates.blakadder.com/GSP1311.html - but that is a different model number and also sometimes they silently change the MCU inside the device so it’s incompatible. In for 2 sets anyway, which is almost certainly more than I need.
@yeppers Got mine today. Good news: tuya-convert just works! Worse news: the linked template is not correct, it causes malfunctioning (relay clicks itself on and off nonstop, at least). It only mentions “Relay1” and due to my own curiosity and assumption that tuya-convert wouldn’t just work, I’ve opened one of mine (don’t, they’re glued shut, not clipped!). It’s definitely got two relays in there. So I should be able to figure out a better Tasmota template. Eventually.
@arantius Thanks for the update. The good news is excellent, the worse news is less great. Mine arrived yesterday but based on your post I haven’t reloaded them yet.
I await agog to see if you come up with a new template, but no pressure, of course.
It’ll reboot, once it’s back up, copy/pasta this into the console and press enter again. (usually not necessary, but, if you’ve configured other modules trying to get it to work, it could be):
Module 0
It’ll reboot once more and once it’s back up, give it a test. Toggle 1 should power left outlet/left half of the power LED. Toggle 2 should power the right outlet/right half of the power LED. Single button press for the left and double button press for the right.
Set admin pass for security, name it and do any other fun stuff you want, then save the config to easily apply to your others.
After that, do the firmware upgrade and save the config again for the new firmware.
I submitted the template for this D variant to blakaddr as well so it will hopefully be available there in the near future.
Internal photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/XPFgEjBiHNd1fT5e9
(Not only is the case glued shut, the plugs are molded into the back such that you’ll need to cut it/them off too!) I can see power supply stuff, one relay for each outlet, and the controller. That’s it, no energy monitoring chips like in the first tasmota link above. There’s at least two fuses too, I’m pretty happy with what I can see from the internals.
What PHRoG has posted is almost the same as what I’ve figured out so far. There’s four LEDs behind the central button. It seems like the top two automatically turn on with each relay, while the lower pair is the first GPIO, so I’d put 320 for the first 0. Then you can use LedState ( https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Commands/#ledstate ) to get some feedback from the device.
@arantius@cfg83@yeppers awesome info…I only got one set of four and didn’t want to destroy one, so appreciate the info on the second set of LEDs!!! I didn’t even probe for them as the ones tied to the relays appear to fully illuminate the ring. I’ll add 320 to the template and post the update below as well as update my submission to blakadder.
Unfortunately, I can’t view the photos without requesting access and I’m not comfortable with that as I never created a burner Google account and I can’t now with the phone verification requirements, lol. Able to open to the public temporarily so I can snag them?
@arantius@PHRoG@yeppers I got an “invite” and was able to download them. I am not sure if my browser was logged into my google account, but it “just worked”.
@arantius@cfg83@yeppers ahhh…yup, it was only because I was signed in that it wanted me to choose an account to view. Trying in a private window didn’t have that stupid requirement and just popped right up!
Could you possibly post another pic or two of what appears to be a daughter board placed vertically that’s right underneath the right-hand relay too please?
@sligett I see that and it is slightly unnerving. I can’t imagine the product is actually like that. I guess this is just written off as AI slop. Good eye!
@sligett yes, but ideally both outlets would be A the same and B conforming to standards. The product image looks like someone designed half of it and mirrored it.
Man… Another brand name just being licensed to shill cheap electronics like Polaroid and so many others… Back in the 50s, Merkmak was the finest merkin maker the world had ever seen. Their merkins were so wonderfully wooly and didn’t chafe at all. No other merkin could come close to a Merkmak merkin and everyone knew it Now some venture capital firm is pimping their name for three cents an imprint. It’s just sad.
The 2.4GHz thing is my only issue with these. My router had to be set to separate 2.4 and 5 GHz bands for my older Roku to be “happy”. This then gave me some trouble with other items that played well with the combined bands. I ended up using an old 2.4 GHz only router which I hardwired to the main router since it’s in the same room as the Roku. That one is now dedicated for just Roku use at 2.4GHz with a separate SSID. All this was precipitated by my older Roku dying (which had ethernet capability).
OTOH my HBN outlets seem to be ok. So YMMV
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Also keep in mind that the 15 amp rating is for both (combined) sides of the outlet and if you have two of these plugged in (4 outlets) and try to turn on a toaster, microwave, coffee pot, and Vitamix at the same time you will definitely trip your breaker.
For those new to the “smart devices” party, and wondering why everybody is talking about installing new firmware on these right off the bat, the tl;dr on cheap “smart” devices like this is basically: never, ever plug them in and use them in the factory configuration, ever.
The factory firmware is usually one of a handful of common ones that have terrible bugs and no security to speak of, and updates from the manufacturer are pretty much unheard-of
Item 1 becomes an issue when you enable remote access (with some of them, you can’t not enable it and have it even work) because that remote access is often implemented by the device connecting to an Internet-exposed endpoint (which is often in the manufacturer’s leased datacenter overseas)
Combine items 1 and 2 and these things become an easy entry point for folks to scan for and either use as entry points into your home network (which you thought was protected by the firewall on your router) to infect your machines, or turn the smart devices into botnet devices themselves (or both)
In some cases these devices have been shown to store your Wi-fi password insecurely, allowing it to be extracted by anybody within broadcast range, who can now connect to your Wi-fi for unsavory things they might be doing so it won’t show up as coming from their own home network. Unlikely that you’ll be personally hit by that, but it happens, and lists of leaked and cracked Wi-Fi passwords circulate online just like the ones for things like e-mail accounts.
@kensey With respect to security flaws, the old tuya-convert repository (https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert) does a good job explaining the security issues that we know of in the pairing process. It’s great for us nerds who take advantage of that to install custom firmware, but scary from the perspective that these exploits were discovered 5-10 years ago and still present in the wild. (Though note, for most devices these days you’ll probably need tuya-cloudcutter https://github.com/tuya-cloudcutter/tuya-cloudcutter)
@kensey@Sompom confirmed tuya-convert works just fine on these {as far as I can tell they’re from 2019-ish). It’s a D variant tho so the standard template didn’t work. I’ve created a working template and gave the deets in a new reply at the bottom of this thread as well as submitted it to be added to the catalog.
Just FYI for those wanting to flash these to Tasmota, the existing GSP1311 template will not work for these as they’re the D variant (GSP1311D). Below is a template I created that works for it along with instructions on how to use it:
It’ll reboot (usually)…once it’s back up, copy/pasta this into the console and press enter again. (usually not necessary, but, if you’ve configured other modules trying to get it to work, it could be):
Module 0
It’ll reboot once more and once it’s back up, give it a test. Toggle 1 should power left outlet/left half of the power LED. Toggle 2 should power the right outlet/right half of the power LED. Single button press for the left and double button press for the right.
Set admin pass for security, name it and do any other fun stuff you want, then save the config to easily apply to your others.
After that, do the firmware upgrade and save the config again for the new firmware.
@arantius above did a tear-down and discovered a second pair of LEDs that can be used for LED State. Updated template/console commands below for including those:
@arantius@PHRoG I’m trying to use tuya-convert for this (via a fresh install on a pi 4). The plug is fresh out of the box, never connected with their app. With the device rapidly blinking, I connect my phone to vtrust-flash, then let tuya-convert continue. After the first SmartConfig send, the device LED turns off and then goes to a solid green light, and tuya-convert loops through resending smartconfig packets, but never succeeds. Any ideas? Maybe I got unlucky and have a newer firmware?
I just connected one through the app just to see (figured if I lose one no big deal), and it’s on firmware v1.0.2
Specs
Product: 4-Pack: Mini Dual-Outlet Smart Wi-Fi Plugs
Model: IT808
Condition: New
What’s Included?
Warranty
90 days
Estimated Delivery
Monday, Jul 27
What app does it use to pair? Some can use multiple.
@Verkato It looks like it works with Smart Life and Tuya.
@Verkato @yeppers thank you! Tuya is something I can finagle into Apple Home via HomeBridge.
The Googles suggest they can use the Geeni or Merkury apps. Can’t find anything definitive though.
/showme diptych. left side: stylish 1990 supercomputer built from a thousand smart wifi dual plugs arranged in visually pleasing way. right side: the terminator
@zippyus Here’s the image you requested for “diptych. left side: stylish 1990 supercomputer built from a thousand smart wifi dual plugs arrang…”
There’s a chance it can be reflashed to Tasmota, since it’s the pictured device on https://templates.blakadder.com/GSP1311.html - but that is a different model number and also sometimes they silently change the MCU inside the device so it’s incompatible. In for 2 sets anyway, which is almost certainly more than I need.
@yeppers You mind me read!!! Tasmota is my ONLY question when it comes to smart crap. And yes, I have also heard about MCU “upgrades”.
@yeppers Got mine today. Good news: tuya-convert just works! Worse news: the linked template is not correct, it causes malfunctioning (relay clicks itself on and off nonstop, at least). It only mentions “Relay1” and due to my own curiosity and assumption that tuya-convert wouldn’t just work, I’ve opened one of mine (don’t, they’re glued shut, not clipped!). It’s definitely got two relays in there. So I should be able to figure out a better Tasmota template. Eventually.
@arantius Thanks for the update. The good news is excellent, the worse news is less great. Mine arrived yesterday but based on your post I haven’t reloaded them yet.
I await agog to see if you come up with a new template, but no pressure, of course.
@arantius @yeppers I just got mine in…happen to have photos of the board so I don’t have to rip mine apart?
@arantius @yeppers @cfg83 …got it figured out.
If you want to use a template, use this:
I prefer the console, it’s easier than diving into the menus imo…to do that, just click on console and copy/pasta this into it, then press enter:
It’ll reboot, once it’s back up, copy/pasta this into the console and press enter again. (usually not necessary, but, if you’ve configured other modules trying to get it to work, it could be):
It’ll reboot once more and once it’s back up, give it a test. Toggle 1 should power left outlet/left half of the power LED. Toggle 2 should power the right outlet/right half of the power LED. Single button press for the left and double button press for the right.
Set admin pass for security, name it and do any other fun stuff you want, then save the config to easily apply to your others.
After that, do the firmware upgrade and save the config again for the new firmware.
I submitted the template for this D variant to blakaddr as well so it will hopefully be available there in the near future.
/giphy ta da
@cfg83 @PHRoG @yeppers
Internal photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/XPFgEjBiHNd1fT5e9
(Not only is the case glued shut, the plugs are molded into the back such that you’ll need to cut it/them off too!) I can see power supply stuff, one relay for each outlet, and the controller. That’s it, no energy monitoring chips like in the first tasmota link above. There’s at least two fuses too, I’m pretty happy with what I can see from the internals.
What PHRoG has posted is almost the same as what I’ve figured out so far. There’s four LEDs behind the central button. It seems like the top two automatically turn on with each relay, while the lower pair is the first GPIO, so I’d put 320 for the first 0. Then you can use LedState ( https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Commands/#ledstate ) to get some feedback from the device.
@arantius @PHRoG @yeppers Oh my goodness
.
@arantius @cfg83 @PHRoG
You guys are heroes! Thank you!
@arantius @cfg83 @yeppers awesome info…I only got one set of four and didn’t want to destroy one, so appreciate the info on the second set of LEDs!!! I didn’t even probe for them as the ones tied to the relays appear to fully illuminate the ring. I’ll add 320 to the template and post the update below as well as update my submission to blakadder.
Unfortunately, I can’t view the photos without requesting access and I’m not comfortable with that as I never created a burner Google account and I can’t now with the phone verification requirements, lol. Able to open to the public temporarily so I can snag them?
PANS! GLANDS! CRAYONS! AWESOME!
@arantius @PHRoG @yeppers I got an “invite” and was able to download them. I am not sure if my browser was logged into my google account, but it “just worked”.
@PHRoG I thought that was a public link, seems to work in a private window for me. How about https://mega.nz/folder/aNJUVT6D#usXm615X1EmdcBnT5Pqxrg ?
@arantius @cfg83 @yeppers ahhh…yup, it was only because I was signed in that it wanted me to choose an account to view. Trying in a private window didn’t have that stupid requirement and just popped right up!
Could you possibly post another pic or two of what appears to be a daughter board placed vertically that’s right underneath the right-hand relay too please?
@PHRoG Added, but it’s just the ESP carrier.
@arantius @PHRoG I figured it out, NM
@arantius @yeppers ?
The left outlet appears to have a wider slot on the right side?
@sligett I see that and it is slightly unnerving. I can’t imagine the product is actually like that. I guess this is just written off as AI slop. Good eye!
@sligett @SteelMan774
I was thinking the same thing. Surely it isn’t like that in real life.
@chuckwedin @sligett @SteelMan774
@troy @extramedium et al …Care to with in on this “feature”…
@chuckwedin @ExtraMedium @sligett @SteelMan774 @troy
Weigh in…
@chienfou @chuckwedin @sligett @SteelMan774 @troy I give this a 0% change of having what would essentially be an unusable plug, but I’ve never seen the product in person.
@chienfou @chuckwedin @ExtraMedium @sligett @SteelMan774 Also never seen the product in person but agree that it’s likely represented wrong in the photo. If you buy them, chime in and let us know!
@sligett the one side is supposed to be bigger than the other for polarity reasons. Hot side and neutral side.
@sligett yes, but ideally both outlets would be A the same and B conforming to standards. The product image looks like someone designed half of it and mirrored it.
Any word on matter or HomeKit compatibility?
Man… Another brand name just being licensed to shill cheap electronics like Polaroid and so many others… Back in the 50s, Merkmak was the finest merkin maker the world had ever seen. Their merkins were so wonderfully wooly and didn’t chafe at all. No other merkin could come close to a Merkmak merkin and everyone knew it Now some venture capital firm is pimping their name for three cents an imprint. It’s just sad.
/buy
@craigthom It worked! Your order number is: flighty-envious-horn
/showme flighty envious horn
@mediocrebot Here’s the image you requested for “flighty envious horn”
/buy
@sinless It worked! Your order number is: whimsical-exotic-needle
/showme whimsical exotic needle
@mediocrebot Here’s the image you requested for “whimsical exotic needle”
Has anyone tried this with Kasa/TP-Link and confirmed they do or don’t work with?
The 2.4GHz thing is my only issue with these. My router had to be set to separate 2.4 and 5 GHz bands for my older Roku to be “happy”. This then gave me some trouble with other items that played well with the combined bands. I ended up using an old 2.4 GHz only router which I hardwired to the main router since it’s in the same room as the Roku. That one is now dedicated for just Roku use at 2.4GHz with a separate SSID. All this was precipitated by my older Roku dying (which had ethernet capability).
OTOH my HBN outlets seem to be ok. So YMMV
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Can this do 240V AC inpuit?
@tinsami1 Once only for one spectacular instant!
Also keep in mind that the 15 amp rating is for both (combined) sides of the outlet and if you have two of these plugged in (4 outlets) and try to turn on a toaster, microwave, coffee pot, and Vitamix at the same time you will definitely trip your breaker.
For those new to the “smart devices” party, and wondering why everybody is talking about installing new firmware on these right off the bat, the tl;dr on cheap “smart” devices like this is basically: never, ever plug them in and use them in the factory configuration, ever.
@kensey can you point to a resource due these?
I’m interested.
@kensey With respect to security flaws, the old tuya-convert repository (https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert) does a good job explaining the security issues that we know of in the pairing process. It’s great for us nerds who take advantage of that to install custom firmware, but scary from the perspective that these exploits were discovered 5-10 years ago and still present in the wild. (Though note, for most devices these days you’ll probably need tuya-cloudcutter https://github.com/tuya-cloudcutter/tuya-cloudcutter)
@bsyris This post from 2019 from Matthew Garrett (an IoT security specialist and general Smart Guy About Stuff) goes over the basic issues: https://mjg59.dreamwidth.org/51910.html
Despite how old that post is, that’s still basically the state of things as I understand it.
@kensey @Sompom confirmed tuya-convert works just fine on these {as far as I can tell they’re from 2019-ish). It’s a D variant tho so the standard template didn’t work. I’ve created a working template and gave the deets in a new reply at the bottom of this thread as well as submitted it to be added to the catalog.
@PHRoG thanks for replying! Now I need to wait for these to come back around
@Sompom they popped up on SideDeal’s daily deal today, same price!
/buy good for tearing apart and trying to flash for home assistant use
@canneddirt It worked! Your order number is: charming-organized-quill
/showme charming organized quill
@mediocrebot Here’s the image you requested for “charming organized quill”
Just FYI for those wanting to flash these to Tasmota, the existing GSP1311 template will not work for these as they’re the D variant (GSP1311D). Below is a template I created that works for it along with instructions on how to use it:
If you want to use a template, use this:
I prefer the console, it’s easier than diving into the menus imo…to do that, just click on console and copy/pasta this into it, then press enter:
It’ll reboot (usually)…once it’s back up, copy/pasta this into the console and press enter again. (usually not necessary, but, if you’ve configured other modules trying to get it to work, it could be):
It’ll reboot once more and once it’s back up, give it a test. Toggle 1 should power left outlet/left half of the power LED. Toggle 2 should power the right outlet/right half of the power LED. Single button press for the left and double button press for the right.
Set admin pass for security, name it and do any other fun stuff you want, then save the config to easily apply to your others.
After that, do the firmware upgrade and save the config again for the new firmware.
/giphy enjoy!
@arantius above did a tear-down and discovered a second pair of LEDs that can be used for LED State. Updated template/console commands below for including those:
Template:
Console:
Then, after reboot (…if it reboots):
@arantius @PHRoG I’m trying to use tuya-convert for this (via a fresh install on a pi 4). The plug is fresh out of the box, never connected with their app. With the device rapidly blinking, I connect my phone to vtrust-flash, then let tuya-convert continue. After the first SmartConfig send, the device LED turns off and then goes to a solid green light, and tuya-convert loops through resending smartconfig packets, but never succeeds. Any ideas? Maybe I got unlucky and have a newer firmware?
I just connected one through the app just to see (figured if I lose one no big deal), and it’s on firmware v1.0.2
@arantius @SkyyPunk green light?
Got pics of the plug, front and back, including clear pic of text on the back?
Not 1000% sure, as I was tired when I did mine…but, 99.999% sure the lights on mine are blue.
These popped up on SideDeal’s daily deal today for the same price and are confirmed to be convertible to Tasmota (template/instructions above).