@Mac454 not necessarily true. You can connect these to your 2.4 ghz network while your Alexa or Google Home Assistant is on 5 ghz and they will still be able to talk to each other as long as they are on the same network.
@Mac454 whys that? my 5g gh controls my 2.4g wemo’s just fine. they’re different ssid’s, but same subnet. and the api calls to control them go out to the internet, to the manufacturers server and back in. right?
@cengland0 Looking real close at these, I think these are a different model than the previous one. These have 2 USB ports and the previous one has 4. This new one has one outlet further away than the rest which would accommodate an AC adapter without blocking the adjacent outlet.
@mediocrebot This has to be new record - Estimated Delivery
Monday, February 3rd - Thursday, February 6th
I’m thinking mine will arrive tomorrow - even before February begins. Yesterday mine was Delivered to Partner Facility. Of course, my last order took a few weeks after arriving at the partner facility . . . so
@lichme I’ve got it set up in my office where I have a halogen desk lamp and a table lamp that uses a weird-shaped incandescent bulb in addition to two Hue bulb floor lamps. It had long annoyed me I couldn’t set a routine to turn all my office lights on at the start of the work day but with this I now do.
I did have a funny mishap - I plugged my Echo into it and then used Echo to turn the whole surge protector off and it took me a minute to figure out why I couldn’t get Echo to turn it back on.
@Kyser_Soze I disable it and it comes right back. I’ve tried to find out how to uninstall it, but it seems that you have to be a computer expert to do it. If you can find an easier way, I’d love to know. It eats up my resources something terrible!
@Tadlem43 I’ve watched a few youtube vids by this guy & went to his site: https://www.christitus.com/clean-up-windows-10/
I just followed the instructions there. I did the free win 10 upgrade last weekend after backing up all data and making an image of my os drive, then I followed the instructions but I was still having something hogging cpu cycles. It turned out that my desktop pic was changing every minute and was choking win 10 but win 8 never had a problem. I hardly look at it so I changed it to every 24 hrs. My system is i7 4700MQ with 16GB of ram, so I didn’t think it should be that big a deal, everything else has run fine for 5 years or so. Good luck.
get alerts if the breakers in my garage trip and the freezers lose power.
It might be fun to accomplish that in a Rube Goldberg manner. A couple starter ideas…
Point a cheap Wyze cam - powered by a separate circuit - at the indicator light on your freezer so you can remotely see if it is powered…
Or, rig a solenoid plugged into the freezer circuit - and stick also cheap Wyze security contacts on the solenoid such that when power is lost, the solenoid “opens” the Wyze security contacts, triggering an alert on your phone…
Don’t think you can. I use smart things hub and it will not let me add it to either the “IF” or “THEN” sections of an automation. I think only those devices that connect directly to Smart Things such as the Zigbee and Z-Wave devices allow you to use them in automations.
But hey, if you figure out how to do this, let me know.
Also if you can figure out how to use the same device in the “IF” and “THEN,” I would like to know too. For example, IF (Kitchen_Light == ON AND button_1 pressed) THEN Kitchen_Light = OFF. Doesn’t work for me because Kitchen_Light is in both parts of the Automation statement.
@cengland0 I’ve already used the same device in the if and the then, odd that it doesn’t work for you. For example. I have it set up so that if my hallway lights are on for 30 minutes, then shut them off.
I also have a TP-Link switch, and a TP-Link outlet that are wi-fi that don’t work with smart things out of the box, but I added them manually. That was a couple of years ago, but I believe it involved adding them as in the smartthings IDE (different from smartthings itself) after giving them a static IP, then setting up a listener/forwarding service in docker. It wasn’t easy, but it worked.
If nothing else, I should be able to give the surge protector a static IP, then ping it locally with a script, and on failure have it do something.
Edit: I should mention that I don’t use SmartThings itself for controlling anything. I enabled WebCore, which opens up tons and tons of options for SmartThings. If you haven’t seen it, definitely look into it. It will blow your mind on some of the stuff you can do with it.
I should mention that I don’t use SmartThings itself for controlling anything
Just guessing but that’s probably why you can have the same device in the IF and the THEN and I cannot.
I considered using Home Assistant instead of Smart Things but the only reason I haven’t gone that route is there’s no Android app for it, just iPhone. You can still access your devices via web browser though but I’m not sure I like that option.
Haven’t used Webcore with Smartthings yet but I did just learn how to install custom handlers from Github. Didn’t actually do that yet but wanted to make sure I knew how before I bought a multi-button device that didn’t have direct support.
The one I ordered from Morningsave was delivered today. Not sure what I am going to do with it. So not sure I need two more. Also have a couple of those Phillips smartplugs from Amazon I have not used.
Why does one want to control a power strip via wi-fi? I’ve got dozens of power strips right now in my household. I can see no reason to turn them off at this time. Am I missing something here? No I do not have some sort of speakers that always listening.
@Joedetroit not sure how useful it is but the powerstrip allows you to individually control devices plugged into it. Other than lamps and being able to control those when on vacation i don’t see how useful these smart plugs are.
@unksol I use one in my livingroom entertainment system. My Amplifier consumes 50 Watts when it’s off and just waiting to be turned on remotely and it generates a bunch of heat inside the cabinet. So I use the switch to turn it off when I’m not using it and just watching regular TV. That Western Digital Live also gets hot even when not using it.
When I want to watch a movie, I say, “Alexa I’m watching a movie” and it will then turn on the Amplifier, the Western Digital Live, and the LED Strip behind the TV.
I think the Amplifier consumes too much power when it’s off and I believe it’s because it has HDMI Passthrough technology which requires electricity. Phantom power that’s 1 or 2 watts would be okay for me but 50 watts is excessive.
@Joedetroit we live in an old attic apartment in boston. we don’t have any lightswitches except for the bathroom. our bedroom and kitchen only have one outlet. what does all this mean? it means alexa as well as smart switches and bulbs have completely eliminated problems such as:
blindly wandering into the apartment or a room at night and waving your arms around for a 4" pull string (made even more difficult if your hands are full with groceries or laundry or what have you)
having to do the above and then wedge your body/arms behind furniture where the switches on the cords to the lamps are because that’s where the one outlet is, and find the one you want in a sea of other cords
additionally, fun stuff like:
not having to get out of bed to turn off the lights at bedtime (i like to read or do crosswords before bed)
being able to plug the lights on the christmas tree in just once at setup each year, and not having to crawl underneath it to plug/unplug to turn on and off every day
saying “alexa i’m home” or “turn [on/off] [room]” and having several things turn on/off at once
with the color hue bulbs, being able to make scenes, or just change color or shades & brightness of yellow or blue light (we had the white hue before so i really thought the color hue would be unnecessary and pointless and i wouldn’t use it but i honestly love it.)
our situation is of course unique to a degree, but it really is useful and has improved our quality of life. and yeah, some of it is just for fun
@Joedetroit if you’ve ever done a whole home energy audit(I’ve been doing this not only to shave the electric bill, but also to develop a solar power system design without breaking the bank) for power consumption, you’ll typically find you can get your home’s ”resting state” consumption down to something like 300-400 watts.
Then you realize all those 3-30 watt power parasites actually add up. And that not all of them require 24x7 power to live well.
Smart plugs and smart power strips + scene and timer management to the rescue.
And then you finally see that fridge and chest freezer are persistent 100-175 watt consumers.
Cool stuff for a cheapskate in the Mehist form.
PS: perhaps a reach, but from your username, check out DTE’s Insight app and importantly, Insight hub that connects to the smart meter for instantaneous whole home power consumption. And as a bonus their “Dynamic Peak Pricing” rate plan brings power down to as low as 5 cents/KWh.
@sammydog01 I’ve seen one past deal where something got mixed up between how much was in stock and how much was configured for the deal. If there was any mistake like that, it’d be better for Mediocre’s storefronts to cut off all sales early (assuming something from the warehouse says it’s all been sold) than to sell as configured and then have to deal with issuing refunds.
@spiciernoodles It is different. Notice that I wrote all about that in one of the first messages. The image is from a previous sale on meh. The previous one had 4 USB ports and all the electrical outlets evenly spaced out. The new one has 2 USB ports and one electrical outlet further than the rest to handle an AC Adapter.
As I recall, the Merkury app requires(required) access to every setting and file on your phone to operate. I may be painting with a broad brush, but I’m not installing shit anymore that requires access to things like my contacts and photos. This practice may have changed but buyers should check the app.
Sorry to have to report this - it appears we did not set aside an amount for VMP hour today, so we are completely sold out. I’m still looking into how that happened, but I don’t believe there will be a further release today.
@dave And anyone that uses that coupon code should get a special icon next to their name to represent they are a cheapskate. Don’t do it right away though, wait until the coupon expires and then give it to everyone all at once.
You can use your own Icon but here are a few to get you started thinking about the type to add.
Interesting failure condition for this product: If you have multiple lamps plugged in, and you put them into a group, such as “lights” and are controlling it with Amazon Alexa…when you say “lights off” only one of the two lamps turns off (or on). It appears that the cloud or device can’t handle two requests delivered close together. Kinda annoying, as now I have to tell Alexa to turn on each light individually by name, instead of as a group. Not sure if the issue is with Greni, Murkery, Alexa, etc…