I also want to replace the tray because it’s corroded and my laundry room is on the second floor. Here’s a photo:
Yikes! But it has a drain. I didn’t know it has a drain. When I look up how to remove it on the internet they have a pretty photo of a fitting to unscrew. I can’t feel a fitting I can unscrew. It looks like just a hole. If I just pull on it the drain pipe comes with it. Help? (Note: this tray was installed by the builder and you know they cheap out on everything.)
The pipe HAS to be connected to the tray with a fitting - you can bit the builder didn’t solder it on! It’s probably just super corroded. Spray the area with W-D 40, let it sit for a while, then try getting a wrench on it.
@sammydog01 There’s probably a flex hose connected to the underside of the tray if there is no obvious nut or compression fitting showing on the top surface of the tray. Try lifting the tray, from the look of it it’s going to crumble anyway. you may have to use a putty knife or screw driver to scrape away the gunk from around the drain hole and get down to the surface to really see anything
@cranky1950 OK so there is a hose that goes down in the hole in the floor? Is there a chance that I can dislodge it and never see it again? Do I need to scrape off the putty on top to see if it comes loose?
@sammydog01 A chance yeah, but probably not much of one. The way around that is if come through the pan tie fishing line to it as you loosen the fitting so you can remove the fitting but the string will stay tied to the hose. The installers had to keep the drain accessible so there should be enough slack to do that. If it’s hard mounted then the drain will just stay in position.
@sammydog01 Looks like they had sheetmetal shop make the pans and braze a fitting to the pan. if you raise the pan slowly there is probably some sort of flex hose or pipe connected to it from below. How long has the pan been in place?
@cranky1950 Now that I look at it it’s metal not putty- welded or whatever the correct term is. The pipe is metal. I can lift it up a bit. If I stick a wire down there it bottoms out at maybe 8 inches down so I assume there’s a bend. Which I’m pretty sure means I’m done and need to hire a professional. Which sucks because I’m pretty confident I can fix the washer.
@sammydog01 Looks like your pan was leaky too. You should probably get a handyman to do the job. I would volunteer but I’m not driving 7 hours.
The job is cut off the old pan at the bottom of the fitting.
Then find the new pan you want and find a drain connection the will fit inside the drain pipe. and a bandaid
that will fit both the old pipe and the new drain. It’ll be something like 1"X1-1/2"
You may need to open the hole in the floor enough so the bandaid will fit.
Assemble the pan and drain.
Connect the drain to the pipe.
Then screw the pan in place.
@cranky1950 I have an upstairs washer too. Where does one find a replacement pan? Before I bought this place, they put in new carpet, threw out the metal pan from the alcove, covered the well with linoleum, and left me a large plastic “skid” thing that had a crack down the middle. It wouldn’t have fit into the space anyway. There’s a plastic drain pipe sticking up though under where the washer goes.
@cranky1950 Thanks for the help. I now know at least what to talk to the guy about. I’ll probably hit up the plumbing service we have a contract with, especially since I have no idea where that pipe goes.
@sammydog01 I had no fucking idea “they” had pre-made pans. The metal pan looked custom (it probably was) This pan looks perfect! 7 available at my favorite Home Depot! Cool!
My drain hole is in the middle but I bet that could be changed…Imma gonna haf to have somebody do some sub-floor work anyway before I sell/rent this place. Thanks!
Also I bought this washer in 1989. Should I try to replace all the rubbery things when I’m in there? And is a metal tray a good idea? It makes it easy to do repairs because it’s bendy but I do like plastic.
@sammydog01 - Since the washer is pushing 40, I’d set some money aside for a new one rather than try replacing the hoses (though they or their connections certainly will eventually fail.) It’s just as likely that the motor will go - or spring connections etc - it’s like a car, when things start burning out, you have to ask whether it’s worth it to keep replacing stuff or get a new one.
@therealjrn If you get a washing machine in your fuko I will drive to your house to pick it up. Unless it’s broken, which it probably would be.
(Congrats!)
What brand is this? The leaky part almost looks like a filter or trap for the drain line, but it must have been connected to something else before you took the picture, right?
Edit: I’ve never used a tray. Is that just something you sit the washer in in case it leaks? If so, I think plastic would probably be better.
The hose connections look pretty good otherwise. How much water is coming out? Maybe the cover for that trap came off and you’re just getting a splash here and there, but if it’s a lot of water I’ll bet you’ve got a sock in a drain hose somewhere!
If it’s a magic chef or norge or pennecrest or maytag, if you’ve an older established maytag dealer around they will probably have parts sitting on the shelf. However Whirlpool owns maytag now and they don’t make legacy parts any longer.
@sammydog01 Short of the transmission being bad, pay whatever it costs to fix it. That maytag is golden.
The $300 whirlpool/roper/amana/admiral machines are not bad by the way, our maytag gave up the ghost 4 years ago and that’s what we bought at homedespot for $199 on sale. I did have to replace the lid lock switch module last year $15 off the internet, $500 if it’s a service call. It’s the same module they use on the $1000 washer.
@medz@sammydog01@Barney somewhere or other I read that Mark Twain said something along the lines of when a kid turns 13 you put them in a pickle barrel and feed them through the knot hole. When they turn 16 you seal up the knot hole. What I’d like to know is when do you take them out? Mine is not ready yet and she is no longer a teen.
@sammydog01 Just had to hang it up in the gym locker. The clean water on the towel would air-dry in 24 hours and be fine. I still use towels at home more than once. (heated, air circulating towel rack speeds the drying process) Wife and child, however, tend to drop their towels on the floor after first use rendering them tainted for further usage. (what with the cat and dog hair and god knows what soiling the floor) For some reason, I’m the only one who washes towel loads…inconsiderate women-folk I live with…
@aetris Ummm that hasn’t worked and mine is 25. Instead she hope I support her in the manner in which she would like to become accustom. Only when I landed in HUD housing and she couldn’t come with by their rules did she sort of, kind of, a little big go away. But what she is doing now is mooching off of someone else. Maybe the barrel has this invisible string attached that we don’t see that needs cut?
Being connected to a fitting at the top of the tub, I’d assume it’s a fill hose. With the square plastic opening at the top of the hose, I’d think they are using this for a vacuum break. This (if I’m right) would prevent the backfeed of wash water. I’d check hoses around the area for cracks, check the plastic thingy for cracks, check hose clamps & the downflow side hose for something plugging it???
@daveinwarsh Ohhh…see I thought that was on the bottom of the drum, but I see it at the top now in the main pic. certainly a fill hose. I agree that it’s either a loose fitting or if the hose is cloged or partially blocked causing it to backup over that plastic part.
Edit: undo the clamp on the hose going to the drum and blow air through it and/or pour water down it to see if it gets into the tub without resistance.
@sammydog01 Being [probably] chronologically younger than that guy in the video, but older where joint mileage/wear is concerned, I would have a different first step.
Put the washer up on Milk Crates, my hydraulic lift table, or anything else that would allow me to work on it w/out squatting on the floor all day.
Then use drill/driver and requisite bits instead of Manuel’s tools.
For a second floor washer, you have to have a tray. A thick plastic one would be much better, as others have said. Hopefully, the contractor had it connected to a drain somehow. Of course, that would require a ‘trap’ to prevent sewer gasses from entering the house, so I’m interest what that drains to! Let me know.
For around $300 you can get a Roper or Hotpoint machine that is “dumb” and probably similar to what you have now. For a little more you can get some upgraded settings and bigger capacity.
A plastic pan should be around $25-35. Just make sure you measure your washer that it will fit. Comes in different sizes.
Good luck fixing it. I fixed my Roper years ago when I broke the lid switch by letting the lid slam. That’s about all I know about fixing them.
Wow, @sammydog01 - You have seriously impressed me again! I once tried to change my own oil but lost a screw in the engine. Now I leave the mechanical stuff to professionals.
Hey, could you look at my water heater? The hot water seems to last only half as long as it once did.
@KDemo I was just going to say that- mine has two elements and when the bottom one burned out I had half as much hot water. I paid Sears to fix it. That was before I discovered YouTube help videos.
@RiotDemon My hot water heater needs fixed too. The landlord put in one that isn’t much over knee high and you can’t even get a bathtub full of hot water out of it (I have turned it up all the way too). I need one of those fixes that turns it into a full sized one but still fits in the same space.
@OldCatLady Well then if I get the landlord (well likely can’t get the landlord to do anything - I have a slum lord) buy a pile of their car batteries, connect the water pipe to their terminals, can they they then be jury rigged to produce hot water rather than electricity? (grin)
@RiotDemon Most homes do not have sufficient power for a full electric tankless water heater; apartment buildings will be even less likely. Per the unit’s specs:
Household Amperage Required (Amps) 100
An older property might not even have a 100 amp service!
@kidsandliz Sorry. I don’t think TARDIS water heaters exist.
@narfcake that was my mistake, I didn’t link the proper one. The one I meant to link was an add on. It uses 110v with a standard 15amp plug. It’s a booster. Sits on top of your water heater, or shortly down the line on the hot side.
Yes, tankless usually needs an upgrade in electric. Luckily here in Florida the water isn’t very cold, so the smaller units usually work fine for households with 1-2 people. Those need a twin 40a breaker or a 60a. So some breaker panels would have enough room for expansion… But yes, electricians are usually involved to pull new wiring. Some houses don’t have a choice because they don’t have room for bigger water heaters and with the new guidelines, all standard size water heaters are bigger than before. I don’t know if that’s the case in @Kidsandliz’s situation or if her landlord is just a jerk.
@sammydog01 I did that once and had all these white chunks come out. Gross. Made me a believer in doing it. The problem I have is I have to buy a length of hose stuff as there is usually no drain on the floor to just send the water into, although once I lived where there was a dirt floor in the basement (the shower was in the basement too and you had to stand on a wood pallet as the water just went onto the floor and so you’d otherwise be standing in mud) and I finally decided just to wear boots and just drain it onto the floor. That hot water heater was gross based on all the calcium deposits that drained out. The mud floor I ended up with that took 3 days to dry out explained why in that rental people only did that once and never again.
sammydog01 ---- really, a 40 year old washer? shell out a few hundred bucks and either buy a new cheapie or someones used unit that works ok for really cheap, at 40 years it is not worth it to fix. hell in dog years its 280 years old!!! if you aren’t mechanically inclined, don’t replace your water heater elements, you are messing with electricity and water. a handy man can install a new one quickly and they are not that expensive. if the heater has water scale in it, its not really worth replacing the heater, the capacity has been restricted by the scale inside it. you didn’t ask for it but that’s my two cents worth, which is not worth even half that amount. good luck!!!
@bayportbob Some of the old ones are far more bomb proof and clean better than the new, water efficient, ones. Mine is 1983 and besides, it has only broken once (although it has an issue now too) I hope it will be only one I will ever have to buy.
@bayportbob - that was my bad math, I said pushing 40 but if he got it in '89 it’s really only 28. I do KIND of agree with @Kidsandliz though - I have some appliances I inherited from the parental units, some stuff was built to last!
@bayportbob My appliance guy said to keep it as long as possible. I just ordered twenty bucks worth of parts- that may fix it. I have replaced the water valve a couple of times and the belt too but this is the first time it has leaked. It’s cousin the dryer went to the junkyard in the sky a few years ago when the motor went. I bought one and couldn’t figure out how to put it in.
@narfcake I have an interesting collection of tools I’ve used once.
Funny story about the water heater, the guy from Sears came to fix it. This was at least 15 years ago before it was easy to find help on youtube. I told him he could run the drain hose out the garage- he said if you replace the element really fast you don’t need to drain the water heater. A few minutes later he asked for towels- lots of them. We managed to save the hardwood floors.
Often times, buying the tools is still less than the cost of a single service call. And if something happens again, you’re already covered.
For larger tools, sometimes it’s more cost effect to buy instead of renting too. I have a drywall hoist in the garage, originally purchased new by someone else who bought it “because it’s cheaper than renting and I get to use it on my time”. He used it to sheetrocked his garage and studio for the cost of a one-day rental; I get full use for the cost of weekend rental.
@narfcake There is a great source for limited use consumer grade tools: in one simple word- “Harbor Freight” [w/ emailed or texted coupons].
For automotive projects, Auto Zone will “rent” tools. Quoted because the rental fee is really just a security deposit- they return it in full when you return the tool[s].
The most fun I have had with a rental in years was when we rented a mini-trackhoe to regrade our pond bank and dig out a big tree stump- it was kinda like being in a video game- joysticks and all…
@sammydog01 - Yikes!
Mine is under the kitchen counter. To get to it, I have to move the stove, then move the microwave & stand.
The first one lasted ~50 yrs, the age of the house. I had it replaced in 1999 and have had problems with the elements several times.
A plumber came out and couldn’t fix it and charged me $100 and recommended an electrician. The electrician came out and fixed it and wouldn’t take any money.
@PhysAssist Yep. The kicker is that their a lot of their tools have improved in quality over the years while other brands coughCraftsmancough has gotten worse. Why pay 3x the price elsewhere for hand tools that are still imported anyway?
That said, I have some HF hand tools in my junkyard bag that didn’t look pretty when I bought them nearly 20 years ago and aren’t looking any better nowadays, but they’ve held up just fine. The only exception was the breaker bar – I broke two of those. Replaced/upgraded with no hassles at all, though, and that one has held up even when throwing a 3’ cheater pipe on it.
I will say that their power tools still aren’t on par with the better major brands, though. That’s not to say that they’re totally unworthy, though; depending on the price, they can still be a good value. I’m definitely choosier there, though.
@narfcake Much of Craftsman tools have gone to shit lately. I’ve gotten more Klein tools lately, Mac tools are still OK as are Snap-On and probably Matco. Buy a phillips Klein screwdriver & see how long it’ll last (unless you hammer on it)…
@jbartus Wiha has good stuff. I have their electricians screwdriver set & a set of micro drivers of theirs. I don’t own any Felo tools. I’ve got some Knipex tools that are great! They have the best waterpump pliers around & I have a very small Knipex bolt-cutter (as small as a pair of pliers) that are freaking amazing.
@daveinwarsh Felo’s ergonic line is fantastic. All I currently own from Wiha is an interchangable bit set with both driver and ratchet, it’s phenomenally well made.
I don’t think I’ll ever own anything Snap On or Mac, too pricy. I prefer to research the leading brand in a given space and buy that rather than hook my wagon to an overpriced brand name. Snap On and Mac are quality but there is equivalent quality to be had without the household name markup.
@daveinwarsh For quality tools, check out estate and yard sales in mid-high priced neighborhoods. Older is better. You become a vulture, hunting for tools no longer needed by recently deceased home hobbyists, to recycle. Very Zen.
@daveinwarsh The sparkys usta come on the job with their new tools and laugh at my beatup Klein tools and talk about their craftsman lifetime warranty. I’d tell them, why would I by tools that I know are gonna break?
@OldCatLady I’ve found nice USA or German made tools at Goodwill also. I go there looking for old tools or electronic equipment.
Seems like the yard sales around here are all baby clothes and little glass vases.
The estate sales have people that go around & buy everything useful in the first 4 minutes. Professional stuff-buyers, I guess.
Most of my tools are probably 30+ yrs old & still in great condition. I also have a lot of operational hand tools from 1900-1960’s that I display & occasionally use like these:
@narfcake Agreed on all counts. As for power tools, I have been buying refurbished Hitachi ones from Big Sky Tools, and have not been disappointed [nor had a failure in the 2-3 years I have been shopping there.
@cranky1950 Klein tools are always keepers, but quite spendy for how often I use [or lose, or lend and lose] a lot of my tools. If I were in the trades and not just a hack w/e homeowner wannabe, that’s all I’d own too, but it ain’t so…
I try really hard to stay out of our local Harbor Freight. I go in for one thing and come out with ten different things that look neat. Often the things have wheels, just because.
@daveinwarsh The old drain pan is welded to a metal drain pipe so I need to call in a professional to replace it. I hope the floor is OK. I ordered $20 of parts for the washer and think I can fix it (50% certainty). I’ll let you know the final result.
@narfcake Yeah, it’s rusty. Plus there’s not a really good way of attaching the drain because of the weld. I guess I could drop a piece of hose down there but I’m not even sure where it drains to.
@sammydog01 since its just a pan for emergency drips, I would just cut out what I could, maybe put a piece of pvc liner under the edges of the old pan… Cut a hole in a new plastic pan, add a bulkhead union to attach a short piece of pipe to drop it into the old pipe.
@jbartus The pan is actually fastened to the drain line. With molten metal. OK it’s not molten anymore. If it just sat in there I could take it apart. Which I can’t.
@sammydog01 You might be the one to make it right, then. Given that it was brazed onto the sheet metal suggests that it was NOT a plumber that installed it but a sheet metal fabricator.
@narfcake 3/4" I think. I bought a crappy plastic drain pan to show the plumber- it is 1-1/2". The plumber is coming tomorrow- I’m gonna ask if he can set it up with a fitting so I can replace it if it cracks. Fingers crossed.
DIY as I noted before. To make it a standard fitting now, screw down a 3/4" pipe flange on top, with a gasket (or silicone) in between.
/image 3/4" pipe floor flange
@sammydog01 it’s a drain, not a supply line, so it doesn’t hold any pressure. Therefore it doesnt have to seal, unless the line backs up water will never be standing in it to leak. anything that directs the lowest part to inside the pipe is going to be good enough. As long as it’s all downhill into the pipe the water will go where you want.
your washing machine drain line is a great example of this. The drain hose is just inside the standing pipe so the water has to go down the pipe.
So replacing the pan and pipe and soldering the connection may be overkill. Assuming the pan is secured enough to not be moved by a spin cycle, you shouldn’t have to solder it to the pipe.
I admitted defeat and scheduled a ream job from the plumber. The washer parts haven’t come in yet but I’ll probably screw that up too. At least the water will drain when it pours out. I’ll let you know.
/giphy agony of defeat
Oh, and I found the local laundromat this morning. Good times!
My new part came and I installed it. Took three minutes. The old one was definitely the source of the leak and probably also the rust in the pan. I need to keep a better eye on this stuff.
(That white part is supposed to be covered with rubber. It’s completely blown out.)
The plumber came today. He took out the metal pan, fixed a plastic fitting onto the pipe, and installed a plastic pan. Yay! Now if it breaks I can replace it easily and we can replace the linoleum too! Then he screwed it into the floor. WHY OH WHY would you take a plastic pan with a watertight seal on it and put screws through it? He said to keep it from moving around. It will have a big fucking washing machine sitting on it to keep it from moving around.
He promised the caulk he put around the screws will make it water tight. I will add more caulk.
You’re absolutely right that the washing machine will keep it from moving around. An alternative option would have been a rubber sheet underneath – BUT NOT SCREWS THROUGH IT!!!
@sammydog01 The spin cycle on an unbalanced washer could definitely move the pan around and stress the fitting to the drain pipe or the pipe itself. Screws wouldn’t be my first choice (tacking it down with adhesive on the bottom would be my instinct) but caulk around them should be ok. This pan shouldn’t fill up like a bathtub but direct any leaks to the drain instead of letting them disperse freely throughout your second floor.
@sammydog01 Calm down. It’s not like the pan is going to be holding standing water, also the screws embedded in the plastic surface will be pretty water tight. The pan exists to channel water to the drain and the water should go away quickly anyway.
@OldCatLady meh, some things really matter, some things don’t. They guy could have your mastic to stick it to the floor but used screws. It’s not really a big deal. If there is water there long enough for the screws to leak a bit, then she’s got really big other problems.
@OldCatLady One of my bosses in Florida had an old washer and the water pump sprung a leak that he couldn’t fix because the company went under years before. So instead of buying a new washer, he built a cinderblock sump around it and had a bilge pump pumping the water out the garage wall. And my wife says I’m cheap.
@djslack@oldcatlady@cranky1950 Here’s a photo- the drain pipe sticks up about 1/2 inch over the base of the tray. The drain only works if there is a lot of water- small leaks sit in the pan- up to a half inch of water. That’s my concern- a slow leak that wets the bottom but isn’t really obvious.
@sammydog01 Well, it’s better than nothing, and fastening it firmly to the floor may prevent any additional strain on the drainline if the washer moves during times of unbalanced spinning.
@medz unless you were joking this is an example of everything wrong with the internet. I’m ashamed to have a comment like this be part of the community here. Nobody has any business reviewing the guy other than the one person here who was his customer.
Damn, the builder really cheaped out when they placed that drain. That’ll keep the 2nd floor dry anyway. I see why the specially designed the pans for this application. You’re going to be mopping up that pan anyway, you don’t want standing water in your house.
The up side is hopefully you won’t really need the pan. But it should work ok when you do.
@sammydog01 I’d be tempted to remove the screws & carefully silicone-caulk all around the edge of the base and screw-holes. You probably don’t need to do the drain area & I wouldn’t lift up on it much at all. Then put the screws back in with more silicone.
@sammydog01 use 3m 5200 you can get a small tube at home despot. mostly for your own peace of mind, because really the screw heads are going to be pretty water tight.
You might also want to remove the lock nut on the drain and silicone around it and run the nut back down.
@daveinwarsh@cranky1950 That pan is installed exactly how I would have done it. The washing machine can move quite easily under the spin cycle (ours moves 6+ inches at times). Had he used an adhesive if there was an issue the pan would have to be destroyed to get to the drain, and probably the drain would be damaged as well. A couple of well placed screws, through a small hole that is sealed with caulk will hold the pan in place and will not leak much if at all. That pan should never have water in it anyway, if it does you have a bigger problem that should be addressed before it becomes a catastrophe.
@sammydog01 I wish I could of seen what he used to attach to the metal pipe because the fitting that is attached to the pan is pretty much what I would of used. It connects to pvc pipe so I’m curious as to what he used.
@sammydog01 honestly for the likelihood of water actually sitting in this pan and the minute amount that would maybe seep out around the screw heads and caulk I wouldn’t worry about it. You’re literally talking less than a thimble full of water leaking out around those screws over the course of a day, if that. The pan is meant to be bone dry except in the case of a massive failure, it’s really a non-issue and probably the best way to install the pan.
@cranky1950 I bought some silicone caulk. Yes I know it’s OK without extra but I put some on there anyway. I’ll let it cure overnight and plop that washer in there tomorrow.
When I looked up commercial trays they all had that fitting up off the bottom like that. I guess that’s how it’s done.
The leak I had in the washer had obviously been going on for a while before the rubber completely let go. This should fix that- a small amount of water from each wash load would evaporate pretty easily in this pan without rusting it out. That’s what I was hoping for.
@RiotDemon That’s what he said. He changed his mind or someone at the office changed it for him. I prefer the plastic pan- no rusting and I can change it out easily. It would have been stupid to solder another metal one on there.
I just ran a load of hot water and clorox. There was a slow leak in the front right corner. I hope it’s either from when I turned on the water and didn’t have the hoses tight enough (that was a pain to fix) or possibly some rubber that shrank during the extended dry time that will fix itself. Either way it’s not much and that’s why I wanted a nice plastic pan without holes in it.
The funnest part was putting the washer in the tray. I have been sliding it in and out by bending down the metal (Don’t judge- that’s how the repair guy did it way back when). So I had to horse a 150 to 200 pound washer over a two inch lip. I used a couple of 2X4’s to slide it over the lip. My back hurts. A lot. But I will have clean clothes tonight.
Addendum: Water started pouring out of the same spot as before during the second cycle. I’m cleaning out my turtle tank cleaning hose to use to fill the washer for now. Then I can see If there is enough space in the pan to take the washer apart or I may call a professional and hope he doesn’t destroy my new pan. There will be alcohol involved in there.
@sammydog01 Shit.
I’d first see if you can tip the top & double-check hoses for cracks, hose clamps & that the new part ain’t in backwards or something.
Finding helpful teenagers is as rare as finding $50 while walking down the road blindfolded…
@daveinwarsh and @cranky1950 and anyone else who might be able to help- the front panel of my washer has two screws at the bottom that come out. Then I generally swing the bottom of the front panel out to disengage the clips. I can’t pull it out because of the front of the nice new pan. Short of putting spacers under all four corners to raise the whole washer up does anyone have a suggestion? It doesn’t tip back- it’s tight against the wall. And my back still hurts.
@sammydog01 You have to raise up the machine. Spacers is it. Tilt it to one side and put a brick under it, then tilt it on the brick side and put a brick under the other side or hunks of 4X4. Put a flattened cardboad box agains the wall to save the paint.
or you can take a sabre saw and cut down the front of the pan, but the kind of defeats the purpose of the pan.
@sammydog01 From what I see of the pic, you should be able to pull themach forward enough to tilt it back enough to get the front above the top of the pan put something under the frontside of the washer to hold up while you remove the panel then put the washer back so you can run a cycle and see where the water is coming from. Kind of walk it forward dont pull it.
@sammydog01 I have to agree with the spacers idea. I don’t think a screwdriver or anything can jimmy it open, you want those clips to fit tightly when you are done.
@sammydog01 watching the video, he wets it… But doesn’t show what he wets it with… I’m going to assume spit because I didn’t see a little container of water sitting around.
Maybe a little tiny bit of dawn dish soap.
@sammydog01 Don’t use petroleum-based lube on rubber things! On that you can trust me… If you have a silicone or water-based lube, you can probably use that.
@medz@riotDemon The KY worked nicely-I think I got it in there correctly. Water is still spewing out. Maybe a plug downstream? I just ordered the whole assembly with new hoses for $50 (including an extra ten bucks for fast shipping). Fingers crossed.
@sammydog01 I keep a silicone grease on hand for plumbing issues, lube o-rings, etc… A container lasts a long long time. I also use it to keep refrigerator drawers sliding smoothly…
@daveinwarsh I tested it out with the top open. Water was rushing through the plastic piece. Maybe it’s supposed to do that? It didn’t seem right.
The new part attaches to the water valve and the tank. I can’t get the hose off- some asshole put the clamp in a really hard to access place. Oh yeah, that was me when I switched out the water valve.
Plus the top only opens part way because it hits the wall. I couldn’t figure out yesterday why I had little bruises all over my right shoulder. Mystery solved.
I’m taking a break before I bust something else. I have time to mess with it on Friday.
I’m starting to think I should have called the appliance guy to begin with. Hindsight, right?
@sammydog01 at this point you have to do anything, up to and including a full renovation of your home, to solve this issue that you got yourself into as a minor diy problem. To call a repairman is to admit defeat. This is the diy code.
@sammydog01 I still think this part is a vacuum break of some kind. To prevent water (if it over-fills to the top) from backing into your water supply. If the water sprays out above the tub, you can do without that damn thing.
The tub would have to be full & the solenoid fail open and your water pressure fail, causing wash water to backfeed into your water supply. I guess it could happen…
Then, you’d just get a hose coupler (maybe 3/4"??).
Shit. Wish I was there to help.
@daveinwarsh It is the vacuum break. A bunch of online people just took them out. At this point since I have a new one that’s already hooked up to hose on both ends it’s almost foolproof. Almost.
So it broke again over Labor Day and blew smoke all over the house. I have been pretending I enjoy the company at the laundromat but finally pulled out my laptop and researched the symptoms. It might be a bad bearing (belt moves, drum doesn’t, grease spattered underneath). A new one goes for $60. They also suggest replacing some other stuff too- mounting stem kit for $70 and belts for $24.
Should I buy the bearing and see how things go or junk it?
@sammydog01 At the rate you are going you might end up paying more in repairs than it costs to replace. When you think about replacing it though don’t get sucked into sunk costs. You have already spent what you have spent. Is it a good enough machine to continue to replace parts with or is it perhaps basically worn out?
@sammydog01 It’s probably time. I think you’ve gotten every worth out of the machine already.
Personal preference: skip LG and Samsung. Frigidaire hasn’t been all that good in recent times either; their slightly older ones were decent, though. GE remains to be seen, though given how they were before, they’ll probably improve under Haier.
@narfcake@sammydog01 Go for a Speed Queen! It’s going to be about 850 dollars, but a Whirlpool will probably have you at least replacing broken knobs in less than four years.
@Limewater@narfcake Fun fact, I just looked up washer reviews on Consumer Reports and the only top loaders rated below that exact Whirlpool (38/100) were three Speed Queens (31/100). I’m not sure I trust Consumer Reports anymore.
@Limewater@narfcake@sammydog01 Our 12 yr old Kenmore front loader is over 12 yrs old. Has done 4 - 6 loads a week including large rugs. Never had any problems. We like front loaders because they use much less water (for our septic system) and can clean large bulky things better. Always leave the door of a front loader open when not in use to prevent musty smells.
ps… On anything (like a washer & dishwasher) using a solenoid to open/close a water valve, I use a mini in-line hammer arrestor to help prevent damage & leaking hoses…
@sammydog01 Might think about Craigslist for a replacement. I’ve seen some really nice units for cheap when people are moving & the machines have to go.
Go with front-loader for reduced water usage & less wear on clothes. I think the top-load agitators have shorter run times & some people swear clothes are cleaner.
@compunaut@sammydog01 I like with the older top loaders (with an older dryer) that the length of time it takes to wash the clothes matches the length of time it takes to dry them.
@sammydog01 so $154 in parts and then basically the only things you haven’t replaced on it are the motor, solenoids, timers, water level switch and the actual drum and shell? Many of those parts don’t fail often (but keep an eye on that level switch, when it fails it sucks), so there’s a good chance this extends its life significantly. If it performed well for you, I’d figure that into a comparison with a new one. But if you’ve been eyeing the new hotness machines in the appliance stores or just thinking this one is a bit loud or takes too long, it’s a good opportunity to upgrade for sure.
@djslack There’s a water pump in there too, right? Also I did get some smoke- maybe just the belt but it didn’t smell like rubber to me. Can I tell if I damaged the motor when the drum jammed? I plan on taking it apart to make sure it’s not just a sock jammed under the drum, just in case.
@sammydog01 my bad, I thought the water pump was what you replaced recently. I didn’t reread any of the thread.
I guess my point was look at what else is left to fail when considering repair vs replace.
Motors are relatively easy. Brushes can wear out, bearings can fail/wear out, and if overheated they can burn up. Brushes are usually replaceable and pretty easy. If it spins smoothly and quietly bearings are ok. If windings burn up you’ll smell it, but many motors include a thermal fuse to protect against that, and when it goes they just stop until it either resets or is replaced depending what kind it is.
@Limewater@narfcake Another fun fact- my jackass plumber put in my tray sideways so I only have a depth of 29 inches from the wall. I can probably buy and install a new one, but what a dick. The extra 2 inches if he put it in properly would probably also make it possible to take the front panel off without putting it up on blocks.
@sammydog01 I know how you feel about that old machine of yours. I got an old Kenmore from my mom when I set up my old bedroom into a laundry room for her after she could no longer safely go down the basement steps. At that time I bought her a stackable Kenmore so she didn’t have to bend over to load her laundry, plus it didn’t take up much room.
This was over a dozen years ago, so her old machine is probably around 25 years old and just keeps perking away. I just sold her stackable to a friend. I would have kept it but my laundry space wasn’t configured to where it would fit.
Anyway, what I’m trying to say is that the old machines are the bestest. They pretty much last forever – until they don’t.
Update: Although I have enjoyed meeting new people twice a week at the laundromat I called in the repair guy. Turns out the washer has its own breaker and it was tripped, and when he plugged it back in the motor smoked. So it’s the motor which is maybe $350 to repair.
He gave me two new washers to pick from, so off to Lowes. He also said the reason the new machines break is because the feds require washing machines to spin at twice the rmp of the old ones to reduce energy consumption with the dryer. I haven’t looked that up but it sounds legit. He also said buy the warranty.
@sammydog01 New ones break more often because there are more parts to break. Used to be basically tub/drum, motor, rollers, and belt. Now, appliances are “smart” and have more buttons/switches, circuits, digital displays, and computers in them.
@sammydog01 Well, you gave the washer a full life filled with the joys of laundry washed completely.
I’m glad you see it’s time to just let it go to the laundromat in the sky…
@RiotDemon He recommended either the Whirlpool WTW5000DW or the GE GTW485ASJWS. (I think- I already can’t find the sheet with the info on it.) My husband said get the Whirlpool so I did. And I bought a 5 year warranty so I don’t to mess with this motherfucker again. At least for 5 years.
6 years ago I bought the bottom of the line Amana washer at best buy for 199.00 it is still cranking away. The lid sensor died 2 years ago but it was only 20 bucks off the internet and is the same sensor that whirlpool uses in their 1000.00 machine so figure if you buy a whirlpool you’re looking at a $400.00 service call in 3-4 years.
@cranky1950 I paid $120 for a 5 year warranty for my new $500 Whirlpool so I will indeed not be paying for a $400 service call in 3-4 years. It will be in 5 years and a week because that’s how things break if you buy the warranty.
Step 1- take it apart. This went pretty well. Thanks youtube!
The water is coming out about where this thing is. I guess I need a new one. Anyone know what it’s called?
I also want to replace the tray because it’s corroded and my laundry room is on the second floor. Here’s a photo:
Yikes! But it has a drain. I didn’t know it has a drain. When I look up how to remove it on the internet they have a pretty photo of a fitting to unscrew. I can’t feel a fitting I can unscrew. It looks like just a hole. If I just pull on it the drain pipe comes with it. Help? (Note: this tray was installed by the builder and you know they cheap out on everything.)
The pipe HAS to be connected to the tray with a fitting - you can bit the builder didn’t solder it on! It’s probably just super corroded. Spray the area with W-D 40, let it sit for a while, then try getting a wrench on it.
And to replace, definitely go with plastic!
@aetris
@sammydog01 There’s probably a flex hose connected to the underside of the tray if there is no obvious nut or compression fitting showing on the top surface of the tray. Try lifting the tray, from the look of it it’s going to crumble anyway. you may have to use a putty knife or screw driver to scrape away the gunk from around the drain hole and get down to the surface to really see anything
@aetris Fitting? Pffft! These guys were in love with putty. My kitchen drain plumbing was full of it.
That looks kind of dirty.
@cranky1950 OK so there is a hose that goes down in the hole in the floor? Is there a chance that I can dislodge it and never see it again? Do I need to scrape off the putty on top to see if it comes loose?
@sammydog01 A chance yeah, but probably not much of one. The way around that is if come through the pan tie fishing line to it as you loosen the fitting so you can remove the fitting but the string will stay tied to the hose. The installers had to keep the drain accessible so there should be enough slack to do that. If it’s hard mounted then the drain will just stay in position.
@sammydog01 Looks like they had sheetmetal shop make the pans and braze a fitting to the pan. if you raise the pan slowly there is probably some sort of flex hose or pipe connected to it from below. How long has the pan been in place?
@cranky1950 25 years or so. The pan is my big issue now as I’m not sure how much water damage there is beneath it. The washer is over the garage.
@cranky1950 Now that I look at it it’s metal not putty- welded or whatever the correct term is. The pipe is metal. I can lift it up a bit. If I stick a wire down there it bottoms out at maybe 8 inches down so I assume there’s a bend. Which I’m pretty sure means I’m done and need to hire a professional. Which sucks because I’m pretty confident I can fix the washer.
@sammydog01 Try to lift it from the front and look underneath it might not be as horrible as you think.
@cranky1950 It’s wet and rusty under there.
@sammydog01 TWSS
@sammydog01 Looks like your pan was leaky too. You should probably get a handyman to do the job. I would volunteer but I’m not driving 7 hours.
The job is cut off the old pan at the bottom of the fitting.
Then find the new pan you want and find a drain connection the will fit inside the drain pipe. and a bandaid
that will fit both the old pipe and the new drain. It’ll be something like 1"X1-1/2"
You may need to open the hole in the floor enough so the bandaid will fit.
Assemble the pan and drain.
Connect the drain to the pipe.
Then screw the pan in place.
@cranky1950 I have an upstairs washer too. Where does one find a replacement pan? Before I bought this place, they put in new carpet, threw out the metal pan from the alcove, covered the well with linoleum, and left me a large plastic “skid” thing that had a crack down the middle. It wouldn’t have fit into the space anyway. There’s a plastic drain pipe sticking up though under where the washer goes.
@therealjrn Home Depot has them- this one is a cheapie they have in stock.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Low-Profile-Washer-Tray-in-White-PM7X2DS/205415883
@cranky1950 Thanks for the help. I now know at least what to talk to the guy about. I’ll probably hit up the plumbing service we have a contract with, especially since I have no idea where that pipe goes.
@sammydog01 I had no fucking idea “they” had pre-made pans. The metal pan looked custom (it probably was) This pan looks perfect! 7 available at my favorite Home Depot! Cool!
My drain hole is in the middle but I bet that could be changed…Imma gonna haf to have somebody do some sub-floor work anyway before I sell/rent this place. Thanks!
@sammydog01
TWSS
@therealjrn I think there’s no drain hole in the pan. You have to drill it. (TWSS)
@sammydog01 Oh, you know i can drill it. sheeit.
Also I bought this washer in 1989. Should I try to replace all the rubbery things when I’m in there? And is a metal tray a good idea? It makes it easy to do repairs because it’s bendy but I do like plastic.
@sammydog01 - Since the washer is pushing 40, I’d set some money aside for a new one rather than try replacing the hoses (though they or their connections certainly will eventually fail.) It’s just as likely that the motor will go - or spring connections etc - it’s like a car, when things start burning out, you have to ask whether it’s worth it to keep replacing stuff or get a new one.
@aetris My appliance guy said to keep it until they ran out of parts. Which may be today.
@sammydog01 If I get a washing machine in my Fukobukuro: Meh-rathon Edition (my first!) I promise to have meh send it to you instead.
@therealjrn If you get a washing machine in your fuko I will drive to your house to pick it up. Unless it’s broken, which it probably would be.
(Congrats!)
@sammydog01 I have no idea what my Fukobukuro: Meh-rathon Edition is going to have…the possibilities are mind-boggling.
What brand is this? The leaky part almost looks like a filter or trap for the drain line, but it must have been connected to something else before you took the picture, right?
Edit: I’ve never used a tray. Is that just something you sit the washer in in case it leaks? If so, I think plastic would probably be better.
The hose connections look pretty good otherwise. How much water is coming out? Maybe the cover for that trap came off and you’re just getting a splash here and there, but if it’s a lot of water I’ll bet you’ve got a sock in a drain hose somewhere!
@medz Maytag
@aetris It’s on the fill side.
If it’s a magic chef or norge or pennecrest or maytag, if you’ve an older established maytag dealer around they will probably have parts sitting on the shelf. However Whirlpool owns maytag now and they don’t make legacy parts any longer.
@cranky1950 Maytag. My appliance guy inherited the business from his dad, so maybe?
@sammydog01 Short of the transmission being bad, pay whatever it costs to fix it. That maytag is golden.
The $300 whirlpool/roper/amana/admiral machines are not bad by the way, our maytag gave up the ghost 4 years ago and that’s what we bought at homedespot for $199 on sale. I did have to replace the lid lock switch module last year $15 off the internet, $500 if it’s a service call. It’s the same module they use on the $1000 washer.
I’d forget about trying to repair the washer and just buy more socks and shirts from meh.
@Barney I have a teenager that takes 3 showers a day and uses a fresh towel every time.
@sammydog01 That’s silly. Get a towel drying rack.
@sammydog01 My condolences on having a teenager.
@Barney I don’t think @medz has a teenager.
@sammydog01 He will someday.
@sammydog01 when I was a teenager, I used the same towel for gym class all week long.
@medz
/giphy ewww stinky
@medz @sammydog01 @Barney somewhere or other I read that Mark Twain said something along the lines of when a kid turns 13 you put them in a pickle barrel and feed them through the knot hole. When they turn 16 you seal up the knot hole. What I’d like to know is when do you take them out? Mine is not ready yet and she is no longer a teen.
@Kidsandliz
You don’t take them out. You screwed up.
@Barney the definition of bung hole seems to have drifted a bit between then and the 1990’s.
“Kid, get yer pie hole up to the bung hole, it’s feedin’ time!”
@Barney Yeah I sure did! LOL
@djslack Maybe he was using the current definition…
@Barney, @Kidsandliz - I think you take them out of the barrel but stop feeding them, so they go away.
@sammydog01 Just had to hang it up in the gym locker. The clean water on the towel would air-dry in 24 hours and be fine. I still use towels at home more than once. (heated, air circulating towel rack speeds the drying process) Wife and child, however, tend to drop their towels on the floor after first use rendering them tainted for further usage. (what with the cat and dog hair and god knows what soiling the floor) For some reason, I’m the only one who washes towel loads…inconsiderate women-folk I live with…
@aetris Ummm that hasn’t worked and mine is 25. Instead she hope I support her in the manner in which she would like to become accustom. Only when I landed in HUD housing and she couldn’t come with by their rules did she sort of, kind of, a little big go away. But what she is doing now is mooching off of someone else. Maybe the barrel has this invisible string attached that we don’t see that needs cut?
Being connected to a fitting at the top of the tub, I’d assume it’s a fill hose. With the square plastic opening at the top of the hose, I’d think they are using this for a vacuum break. This (if I’m right) would prevent the backfeed of wash water. I’d check hoses around the area for cracks, check the plastic thingy for cracks, check hose clamps & the downflow side hose for something plugging it???
@daveinwarsh Ohhh…see I thought that was on the bottom of the drum, but I see it at the top now in the main pic. certainly a fill hose. I agree that it’s either a loose fitting or if the hose is cloged or partially blocked causing it to backup over that plastic part.
Edit: undo the clamp on the hose going to the drum and blow air through it and/or pour water down it to see if it gets into the tub without resistance.
@medz Resistance is futile…
@daveinwarsh BINGO! I’m trying to find that thing online- water poured down the hose so I think I need a replacement.
@daveinwarsh OK it looks like it may be available although it looks entirely different and I have to buy it in several pieces.
@daveinwarsh found a youtube video!
@sammydog01 “injector”, eh?
@medz It’s tiny.
/giphy tiny injector
@sammydog01 Wow my mind is dirtier than giphy today.
@sammydog01 Being [probably] chronologically younger than that guy in the video, but older where joint mileage/wear is concerned, I would have a different first step.
Put the washer up on Milk Crates, my hydraulic lift table, or anything else that would allow me to work on it w/out squatting on the floor all day.
Then use drill/driver and requisite bits instead of Manuel’s tools.
For a second floor washer, you have to have a tray. A thick plastic one would be much better, as others have said. Hopefully, the contractor had it connected to a drain somehow. Of course, that would require a ‘trap’ to prevent sewer gasses from entering the house, so I’m interest what that drains to! Let me know.
@daveinwarsh You know a lot about warsher machines. Fitting name.
/giphy warsh
@medz Yeah. 30+ yrs as a building mechanic.
I had to fix everything, mostly on commercial equipment.
For around $300 you can get a Roper or Hotpoint machine that is “dumb” and probably similar to what you have now. For a little more you can get some upgraded settings and bigger capacity.
A plastic pan should be around $25-35. Just make sure you measure your washer that it will fit. Comes in different sizes.
Good luck fixing it. I fixed my Roper years ago when I broke the lid switch by letting the lid slam. That’s about all I know about fixing them.
For the drain pan, look for a locknut on at the fitting. It’ll look like this.
/image PVC fitting locknut
Unscrew that, then replace the pan.
@narfcake Nope. That would be too easy.
Wow, @sammydog01 - You have seriously impressed me again! I once tried to change my own oil but lost a screw in the engine. Now I leave the mechanical stuff to professionals.
Hey, could you look at my water heater? The hot water seems to last only half as long as it once did.
@KDemo might need to replace one of the elements. Fairly simple as long as you can follow instructions.
There’s a way to test the element with a volt meter, but I’m sure someone else could explain it way better than I could.
@KDemo I was just going to say that- mine has two elements and when the bottom one burned out I had half as much hot water. I paid Sears to fix it. That was before I discovered YouTube help videos.
@RiotDemon My hot water heater needs fixed too. The landlord put in one that isn’t much over knee high and you can’t even get a bathtub full of hot water out of it (I have turned it up all the way too). I need one of those fixes that turns it into a full sized one but still fits in the same space.
@Kidsandliz Tesla can do it with their car batteries.
@Kidsandliz need to replace the whole thing with a tankless or add on an extra one, something like this one, but maybe with better reviews:
https://m.lowes.com/pd/HEATWORKS-Model-1-240-Volt-12-kW-Tankless-Electric-Water-Heater/999929340
@OldCatLady Well then if I get the landlord (well likely can’t get the landlord to do anything - I have a slum lord) buy a pile of their car batteries, connect the water pipe to their terminals, can they they then be jury rigged to produce hot water rather than electricity? (grin)
@RiotDemon Most homes do not have sufficient power for a full electric tankless water heater; apartment buildings will be even less likely. Per the unit’s specs:
An older property might not even have a 100 amp service!
@kidsandliz Sorry. I don’t think TARDIS water heaters exist.
@narfcake that was my mistake, I didn’t link the proper one. The one I meant to link was an add on. It uses 110v with a standard 15amp plug. It’s a booster. Sits on top of your water heater, or shortly down the line on the hot side.
Yes, tankless usually needs an upgrade in electric. Luckily here in Florida the water isn’t very cold, so the smaller units usually work fine for households with 1-2 people. Those need a twin 40a breaker or a 60a. So some breaker panels would have enough room for expansion… But yes, electricians are usually involved to pull new wiring. Some houses don’t have a choice because they don’t have room for bigger water heaters and with the new guidelines, all standard size water heaters are bigger than before. I don’t know if that’s the case in @Kidsandliz’s situation or if her landlord is just a jerk.
@RiotDemon Landlord is a jerk.
@sammydog01
In areas with high mineral content in the water sediment settles in the tank decreasing the capacity of stored water in the tank.
We should all be draining the tank with the drain every six months or so to flush sediment.
@KDemo see above
@meh427 Yep, they told me to do that. I added it to the list of things I should do but don’t.
@sammydog01 I did that once and had all these white chunks come out. Gross. Made me a believer in doing it. The problem I have is I have to buy a length of hose stuff as there is usually no drain on the floor to just send the water into, although once I lived where there was a dirt floor in the basement (the shower was in the basement too and you had to stand on a wood pallet as the water just went onto the floor and so you’d otherwise be standing in mud) and I finally decided just to wear boots and just drain it onto the floor. That hot water heater was gross based on all the calcium deposits that drained out. The mud floor I ended up with that took 3 days to dry out explained why in that rental people only did that once and never again.
sammydog01 ---- really, a 40 year old washer? shell out a few hundred bucks and either buy a new cheapie or someones used unit that works ok for really cheap, at 40 years it is not worth it to fix. hell in dog years its 280 years old!!! if you aren’t mechanically inclined, don’t replace your water heater elements, you are messing with electricity and water. a handy man can install a new one quickly and they are not that expensive. if the heater has water scale in it, its not really worth replacing the heater, the capacity has been restricted by the scale inside it. you didn’t ask for it but that’s my two cents worth, which is not worth even half that amount. good luck!!!
@bayportbob Some of the old ones are far more bomb proof and clean better than the new, water efficient, ones. Mine is 1983 and besides, it has only broken once (although it has an issue now too) I hope it will be only one I will ever have to buy.
@bayportbob - that was my bad math, I said pushing 40 but if he got it in '89 it’s really only 28. I do KIND of agree with @Kidsandliz though - I have some appliances I inherited from the parental units, some stuff was built to last!
@bayportbob My appliance guy said to keep it as long as possible. I just ordered twenty bucks worth of parts- that may fix it. I have replaced the water valve a couple of times and the belt too but this is the first time it has leaked. It’s cousin the dryer went to the junkyard in the sky a few years ago when the motor went. I bought one and couldn’t figure out how to put it in.
@aetris FYI, @sammydog01 is female.
@bayportbob She’s mechanically inclined enough, and these old Maytag top loading washers hold up a lot lot lot lot better than new washing machines.
Also, replacing a water heater element isn’t rocket science at all. Some common sense, like shutting off the breaker first, and tools, and it’s easily DIY.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
@narfcake I have an interesting collection of tools I’ve used once.
Funny story about the water heater, the guy from Sears came to fix it. This was at least 15 years ago before it was easy to find help on youtube. I told him he could run the drain hose out the garage- he said if you replace the element really fast you don’t need to drain the water heater. A few minutes later he asked for towels- lots of them. We managed to save the hardwood floors.
@sammydog01 What an ass.
Often times, buying the tools is still less than the cost of a single service call. And if something happens again, you’re already covered.
For larger tools, sometimes it’s more cost effect to buy instead of renting too. I have a drywall hoist in the garage, originally purchased new by someone else who bought it “because it’s cheaper than renting and I get to use it on my time”. He used it to sheetrocked his garage and studio for the cost of a one-day rental; I get full use for the cost of weekend rental.
@narfcake There is a great source for limited use consumer grade tools: in one simple word- “Harbor Freight” [w/ emailed or texted coupons].
For automotive projects, Auto Zone will “rent” tools. Quoted because the rental fee is really just a security deposit- they return it in full when you return the tool[s].
The most fun I have had with a rental in years was when we rented a mini-trackhoe to regrade our pond bank and dig out a big tree stump- it was kinda like being in a video game- joysticks and all…
@sammydog01 - Yikes!
Mine is under the kitchen counter. To get to it, I have to move the stove, then move the microwave & stand.
The first one lasted ~50 yrs, the age of the house. I had it replaced in 1999 and have had problems with the elements several times.
A plumber came out and couldn’t fix it and charged me $100 and recommended an electrician. The electrician came out and fixed it and wouldn’t take any money.
Hope I can find his number again.
@KDemo Good luck! You may want to toss a water alarm in there when it’s open. I bought mine here. Just don’t call Sears.
@PhysAssist Yep. The kicker is that their a lot of their tools have improved in quality over the years while other brands coughCraftsmancough has gotten worse. Why pay 3x the price elsewhere for hand tools that are still imported anyway?
That said, I have some HF hand tools in my junkyard bag that didn’t look pretty when I bought them nearly 20 years ago and aren’t looking any better nowadays, but they’ve held up just fine. The only exception was the breaker bar – I broke two of those.
Replaced/upgraded with no hassles at all, though, and that one has held up even when throwing a 3’ cheater pipe on it.
I will say that their power tools still aren’t on par with the better major brands, though. That’s not to say that they’re totally unworthy, though; depending on the price, they can still be a good value. I’m definitely choosier there, though.
@narfcake Much of Craftsman tools have gone to shit lately. I’ve gotten more Klein tools lately, Mac tools are still OK as are Snap-On and probably Matco. Buy a phillips Klein screwdriver & see how long it’ll last (unless you hammer on it)…
@daveinwarsh even better get a good set from Felo or Wiha
@jbartus Wiha has good stuff. I have their electricians screwdriver set & a set of micro drivers of theirs. I don’t own any Felo tools. I’ve got some Knipex tools that are great! They have the best waterpump pliers around & I have a very small Knipex bolt-cutter (as small as a pair of pliers) that are freaking amazing.
@daveinwarsh Felo’s ergonic line is fantastic. All I currently own from Wiha is an interchangable bit set with both driver and ratchet, it’s phenomenally well made.
I don’t think I’ll ever own anything Snap On or Mac, too pricy. I prefer to research the leading brand in a given space and buy that rather than hook my wagon to an overpriced brand name. Snap On and Mac are quality but there is equivalent quality to be had without the household name markup.
@jbartus Cool. I like, collect & use quality tools.
I’ll look into Felo. Not sure who has them but that’s what the internet is for. Thanks
@daveinwarsh Amazon and eBay were my sources. They’re imported from Germany so…
@daveinwarsh For quality tools, check out estate and yard sales in mid-high priced neighborhoods. Older is better. You become a vulture, hunting for tools no longer needed by recently deceased home hobbyists, to recycle. Very Zen.
@daveinwarsh The sparkys usta come on the job with their new tools and laugh at my beatup Klein tools and talk about their craftsman lifetime warranty. I’d tell them, why would I by tools that I know are gonna break?
@OldCatLady I’ve found nice USA or German made tools at Goodwill also. I go there looking for old tools or electronic equipment.
Seems like the yard sales around here are all baby clothes and little glass vases.
The estate sales have people that go around & buy everything useful in the first 4 minutes. Professional stuff-buyers, I guess.
Most of my tools are probably 30+ yrs old & still in great condition. I also have a lot of operational hand tools from 1900-1960’s that I display & occasionally use like these:
@cranky1950 Thirty years ago when I was an electrician, we all used Klein. Still have those tools. Guess it depends on the region.
@daveinwarsh I have a drill like that! It’s my favorite for small jobs.
@cranky1950 sparkys?
@jbartus Apprentice Electricians
@walarney I still only use Klein of course I’ve had them for 30 years.
Oh, man, I missed a lot of tool talk.
@narfcake Agreed on all counts. As for power tools, I have been buying refurbished Hitachi ones from Big Sky Tools, and have not been disappointed [nor had a failure in the 2-3 years I have been shopping there.
@cranky1950 Klein tools are always keepers, but quite spendy for how often I use [or lose, or lend and lose] a lot of my tools. If I were in the trades and not just a hack w/e homeowner wannabe, that’s all I’d own too, but it ain’t so…
I try really hard to stay out of our local Harbor Freight. I go in for one thing and come out with ten different things that look neat. Often the things have wheels, just because.
@OldCatLady Sure but you need to go to tractor supply for John Deere humming bird feeders or International Harvester door mats.
@OldCatLady I often buy the stuff with wheels, just in order to take them off and put them on other stuffs…
@cranky1950 and my wife hates when I go in there almost as much as HF… for the same reason- spend all day, and buy too much…
I forgot about this thread.
How’s the washer repair going??
Did you get the old pan replaced/was it hooked to a drain?
@daveinwarsh The old drain pan is welded to a metal drain pipe so I need to call in a professional to replace it. I hope the floor is OK. I ordered $20 of parts for the washer and think I can fix it (50% certainty). I’ll let you know the final result.
@sammydog01 Can a new pan just go over the top of the existing one? If the drain hole lines up, this could work.
@sammydog01 I’m assuming the drain pan is only in case of overflow and that the washing machine doesn’t actually drain into it?
@RiotDemon Yes, or drips.
@narfcake That might work temporarily but I would like it fixed the right way before the floor rots.
@sammydog01 Did the leak get to the underside of the existing pan? If not, then doubling up shouldn’t be an issue.
@narfcake Yeah, it’s rusty. Plus there’s not a really good way of attaching the drain because of the weld. I guess I could drop a piece of hose down there but I’m not even sure where it drains to.
@sammydog01 does the piece of metal pipe that’s attached completely come up when you lift the drain pan?
@RiotDemon It comes up a bit but I think it has a bend about 6 inches down. So if I keep pulling I’m looking at actual plumbing work.
@sammydog01 since its just a pan for emergency drips, I would just cut out what I could, maybe put a piece of pvc liner under the edges of the old pan… Cut a hole in a new plastic pan, add a bulkhead union to attach a short piece of pipe to drop it into the old pipe.
@sammydog01 What diameter is the hole? If a tube can slip inside of it, take a pair of tin snips and cut the pan leaving it “flanged”.
I’ll sketch something up in a bit …
@sammydog01 Basically what my thought was is to leave the existing fitting and turn the existing pan into a flange mount.
(Sorry. The back of the receipt was the only piece of scratch paper I have handy.)
New pan goes over with its drain tube inserted into this existing tube. A “flange” is kept so there’s no way it’d fall into the floor.
@RiotDemon GMTA. My post was within seconds of yours.
@narfcake @RiotDemon Thanks but I would really like this done the right way considering the washer is on the second floor.
@jbartus The pan is actually fastened to the drain line. With molten metal. OK it’s not molten anymore. If it just sat in there I could take it apart. Which I can’t.
@sammydog01 You might be the one to make it right, then. Given that it was brazed onto the sheet metal suggests that it was NOT a plumber that installed it but a sheet metal fabricator.
What’s the diameter of the drain hole?
@sammydog01 yeah I deleted my post when I questioned what I was saying and revisited your earlier posts.
@jbartus Thanks for this comment so people don’t think I’m a psychopath who talks to myself.
@narfcake 3/4" I think. I bought a crappy plastic drain pan to show the plumber- it is 1-1/2". The plumber is coming tomorrow- I’m gonna ask if he can set it up with a fitting so I can replace it if it cracks. Fingers crossed.
@sammydog01 you mean you aren’t?
@jbartus Nope, my mother had me tested.
@sammydog01 but I’m a figment of your imagination
@narfcake Estimate of $369.54 to replace the pan with another metal one soldered to the drain pipe. That seems high. Is that high?
@sammydog01 Ouch.
DIY as I noted before. To make it a standard fitting now, screw down a 3/4" pipe flange on top, with a gasket (or silicone) in between.
/image 3/4" pipe floor flange
I can sketch some more up later today.
@sammydog01 it’s a drain, not a supply line, so it doesn’t hold any pressure. Therefore it doesnt have to seal, unless the line backs up water will never be standing in it to leak. anything that directs the lowest part to inside the pipe is going to be good enough. As long as it’s all downhill into the pipe the water will go where you want.
your washing machine drain line is a great example of this. The drain hose is just inside the standing pipe so the water has to go down the pipe.
So replacing the pan and pipe and soldering the connection may be overkill. Assuming the pan is secured enough to not be moved by a spin cycle, you shouldn’t have to solder it to the pipe.
@narfcake I like the idea but I think it has to be flush with the floor since the pan will sit on it.
@djslack I think it is overkill too. Maybe if I can stabilize the drain pipe and run a piece of Tygon tubing down it…
@sammydog01
I’m totally impressed by this project.
I like the blue on your walls. Reminds me of the blue in my bedroom!
I admitted defeat and scheduled a ream job from the plumber. The washer parts haven’t come in yet but I’ll probably screw that up too. At least the water will drain when it pours out. I’ll let you know.
/giphy agony of defeat
Oh, and I found the local laundromat this morning. Good times!
@sammydog01 I hate it when reality wins over wonderful theories. OTOH, this has been really educational.
@sammydog01 Well at least once at the laundromat you can run all your loads at the same time and get out of there sooner…
@sammydog01 I wish some of us were closer to help.
@RiotDemon Aw, thanks.
My new part came and I installed it. Took three minutes. The old one was definitely the source of the leak and probably also the rust in the pan. I need to keep a better eye on this stuff.
(That white part is supposed to be covered with rubber. It’s completely blown out.)
@sammydog01 So when is the repair person showing up to fix the rest?
@dashcloud Wednesday
“Always keep your little white part covered by the rubber, kids.” - @sammydog01
@sammydog01 Nice!
The plumber came today. He took out the metal pan, fixed a plastic fitting onto the pipe, and installed a plastic pan. Yay! Now if it breaks I can replace it easily and we can replace the linoleum too! Then he screwed it into the floor. WHY OH WHY would you take a plastic pan with a watertight seal on it and put screws through it? He said to keep it from moving around. It will have a big fucking washing machine sitting on it to keep it from moving around.
He promised the caulk he put around the screws will make it water tight. I will add more caulk.
I should have kept an eye on that guy.
@sammydog01 GRRRRR!
You’re absolutely right that the washing machine will keep it from moving around. An alternative option would have been a rubber sheet underneath – BUT NOT SCREWS THROUGH IT!!!
@narfcake I didn’t cry. I was proud of myself.
@sammydog01 I would of demanded that he redo it. What a jerk.
@RiotDemon I would have been prouder of myself if I had done that. Baby steps.
@sammydog01 caulking will be fine. Just check it occasionally to make sure it didn’t dry up or anything. Don’t know if he used quality stuff.
@sammydog01 Glad this is finally over, sorry that it didn’t go exactly the way you had planned (thanks @RiotDemon!).
@sammydog01 The spin cycle on an unbalanced washer could definitely move the pan around and stress the fitting to the drain pipe or the pipe itself. Screws wouldn’t be my first choice (tacking it down with adhesive on the bottom would be my instinct) but caulk around them should be ok. This pan shouldn’t fill up like a bathtub but direct any leaks to the drain instead of letting them disperse freely throughout your second floor.
@djslack I think the goal is to channel a flash flood, and the operator would notice the leak immediately.
@sammydog01 Would a can of spray leakstop expanding caulk make you feel more secure?
@sammydog01 Calm down. It’s not like the pan is going to be holding standing water, also the screws embedded in the plastic surface will be pretty water tight. The pan exists to channel water to the drain and the water should go away quickly anyway.
@cranky1950 …wow.
@OldCatLady meh, some things really matter, some things don’t. They guy could have your mastic to stick it to the floor but used screws. It’s not really a big deal. If there is water there long enough for the screws to leak a bit, then she’s got really big other problems.
@OldCatLady One of my bosses in Florida had an old washer and the water pump sprung a leak that he couldn’t fix because the company went under years before. So instead of buying a new washer, he built a cinderblock sump around it and had a bilge pump pumping the water out the garage wall. And my wife says I’m cheap.
@djslack @oldcatlady @cranky1950 Here’s a photo- the drain pipe sticks up about 1/2 inch over the base of the tray. The drain only works if there is a lot of water- small leaks sit in the pan- up to a half inch of water. That’s my concern- a slow leak that wets the bottom but isn’t really obvious.
@sammydog01 Well, it’s better than nothing, and fastening it firmly to the floor may prevent any additional strain on the drainline if the washer moves during times of unbalanced spinning.
Post the guy’s name and company info. We’ll ruin his reputation for you.
@medz unless you were joking this is an example of everything wrong with the internet. I’m ashamed to have a comment like this be part of the community here. Nobody has any business reviewing the guy other than the one person here who was his customer.
@jbartus yeah, just a joke.
@medz I didn’t get his name but here’s his photo.
@sammydog01 are you sure it wasn’t this guy?
@medz
Damn, the builder really cheaped out when they placed that drain. That’ll keep the 2nd floor dry anyway. I see why the specially designed the pans for this application. You’re going to be mopping up that pan anyway, you don’t want standing water in your house.
The up side is hopefully you won’t really need the pan. But it should work ok when you do.
Where did he put the screws?
@cranky1950 The other three corners.
@sammydog01 I’d be tempted to remove the screws & carefully silicone-caulk all around the edge of the base and screw-holes. You probably don’t need to do the drain area & I wouldn’t lift up on it much at all. Then put the screws back in with more silicone.
@sammydog01 use 3m 5200 you can get a small tube at home despot. mostly for your own peace of mind, because really the screw heads are going to be pretty water tight.
You might also want to remove the lock nut on the drain and silicone around it and run the nut back down.
@daveinwarsh @cranky1950 That pan is installed exactly how I would have done it. The washing machine can move quite easily under the spin cycle (ours moves 6+ inches at times). Had he used an adhesive if there was an issue the pan would have to be destroyed to get to the drain, and probably the drain would be damaged as well. A couple of well placed screws, through a small hole that is sealed with caulk will hold the pan in place and will not leak much if at all. That pan should never have water in it anyway, if it does you have a bigger problem that should be addressed before it becomes a catastrophe.
@sammydog01 I wish I could of seen what he used to attach to the metal pipe because the fitting that is attached to the pan is pretty much what I would of used. It connects to pvc pipe so I’m curious as to what he used.
@sammydog01 honestly for the likelihood of water actually sitting in this pan and the minute amount that would maybe seep out around the screw heads and caulk I wouldn’t worry about it. You’re literally talking less than a thimble full of water leaking out around those screws over the course of a day, if that. The pan is meant to be bone dry except in the case of a massive failure, it’s really a non-issue and probably the best way to install the pan.
@RiotDemon It looks like he glued the metal to the PVC. I totally could have done that.
@sammydog01 lol, wut. I thought he was going to solder some new fitting on?
@cranky1950 I bought some silicone caulk. Yes I know it’s OK without extra but I put some on there anyway. I’ll let it cure overnight and plop that washer in there tomorrow.
When I looked up commercial trays they all had that fitting up off the bottom like that. I guess that’s how it’s done.
The leak I had in the washer had obviously been going on for a while before the rubber completely let go. This should fix that- a small amount of water from each wash load would evaporate pretty easily in this pan without rusting it out. That’s what I was hoping for.
@RiotDemon That’s what he said. He changed his mind or someone at the office changed it for him. I prefer the plastic pan- no rusting and I can change it out easily. It would have been stupid to solder another metal one on there.
@sammydog01 did they at least charge less?
@RiotDemon Nope but he was here for 2 hours so it’s hard to complain. And it’s better this way.
@sammydog01 Glue wouldn’t transition well, so I’m thinking a compression fitting + nipple.
@narfcake Let’s hope so. It’s hard to see and I’m not taking it apart.
@sammydog01 Here’s hoping that you’d never need to take it apart again too.
It’s done (more or less).
I just ran a load of hot water and clorox. There was a slow leak in the front right corner. I hope it’s either from when I turned on the water and didn’t have the hoses tight enough (that was a pain to fix) or possibly some rubber that shrank during the extended dry time that will fix itself. Either way it’s not much and that’s why I wanted a nice plastic pan without holes in it.
The funnest part was putting the washer in the tray. I have been sliding it in and out by bending down the metal (Don’t judge- that’s how the repair guy did it way back when). So I had to horse a 150 to 200 pound washer over a two inch lip. I used a couple of 2X4’s to slide it over the lip. My back hurts. A lot. But I will have clean clothes tonight.
Addendum: Water started pouring out of the same spot as before during the second cycle. I’m cleaning out my turtle tank cleaning hose to use to fill the washer for now. Then I can see If there is enough space in the pan to take the washer apart or I may call a professional and hope he doesn’t destroy my new pan. There will be alcohol involved in there.
@sammydog01 don’t you have teenagers to help??
@sammydog01 darn.
@RiotDemon Teenagers helping. Hahaha!
@sammydog01 Shit.
I’d first see if you can tip the top & double-check hoses for cracks, hose clamps & that the new part ain’t in backwards or something.
Finding helpful teenagers is as rare as finding $50 while walking down the road blindfolded…
@sammydog01 Of course it had to be Saturday afternoon. Sorry.
@RiotDemon @sammydog01 or even a brother (mine sucks).
@daveinwarsh and @cranky1950 and anyone else who might be able to help- the front panel of my washer has two screws at the bottom that come out. Then I generally swing the bottom of the front panel out to disengage the clips. I can’t pull it out because of the front of the nice new pan. Short of putting spacers under all four corners to raise the whole washer up does anyone have a suggestion? It doesn’t tip back- it’s tight against the wall. And my back still hurts.
@sammydog01 Spacers is probably your best option. Some blocks of 2x4 will work.
@sammydog01 You have to raise up the machine. Spacers is it. Tilt it to one side and put a brick under it, then tilt it on the brick side and put a brick under the other side or hunks of 4X4. Put a flattened cardboad box agains the wall to save the paint.
or you can take a sabre saw and cut down the front of the pan, but the kind of defeats the purpose of the pan.
@sammydog01 From what I see of the pic, you should be able to pull themach forward enough to tilt it back enough to get the front above the top of the pan put something under the frontside of the washer to hold up while you remove the panel then put the washer back so you can run a cycle and see where the water is coming from. Kind of walk it forward dont pull it.
@cranky1950 Or I could take a sabre saw and cut down the middle of the washer front panel. Hmm…
@sammydog01 get your teenagers to help lift it.
@RiotDemon HAHAHA! I do have a husband. Maybe he’ll help.
@cranky1950 I was hoping there would be a “stick a screwdriver in there and pop it out” type solution.
@sammydog01 You can do that but you’ll bend the panel and it’ll never fit right again
@sammydog01 Just walk if forward and have someone hold it tilted back while you remove the panel.
@sammydog01 I would hope someone would help… I mean, you shouldn’t be breaking your back.
@sammydog01 I have to agree with the spacers idea. I don’t think a screwdriver or anything can jimmy it open, you want those clips to fit tightly when you are done.
Update:
Got the washer apart. My back is doing OK.
The injector wasn’t seated properly. I can’t get it seated properly- the rubber lip rolls back:
Can I use something like KY to get it in there? Do I just need to find another supplier that uses heavier rubber?
@sammydog01 watching the video, he wets it… But doesn’t show what he wets it with… I’m going to assume spit because I didn’t see a little container of water sitting around.
Maybe a little tiny bit of dawn dish soap.
@sammydog01 Don’t use petroleum-based lube on rubber things! On that you can trust me… If you have a silicone or water-based lube, you can probably use that.
@sammydog01 there is also a special water proof grease you can buy at hardware stores.
@medz @riotDemon The KY worked nicely-I think I got it in there correctly. Water is still spewing out. Maybe a plug downstream? I just ordered the whole assembly with new hoses for $50 (including an extra ten bucks for fast shipping). Fingers crossed.
@sammydog01 I keep a silicone grease on hand for plumbing issues, lube o-rings, etc… A container lasts a long long time. I also use it to keep refrigerator drawers sliding smoothly…
@sammydog01 I thought you tested flow downstream and said there was no resistance? (emptied into tub with no probs)
@sammydog01 See if… when you close the top down, does it hit the fitting & throw it out of alignment?
@medz Yes. I’m desperate to save my self-esteem so I’ll try this.
@daveinwarsh I tested it out with the top open. Water was rushing through the plastic piece. Maybe it’s supposed to do that? It didn’t seem right.
The new part attaches to the water valve and the tank. I can’t get the hose off- some asshole put the clamp in a really hard to access place. Oh yeah, that was me when I switched out the water valve.
Plus the top only opens part way because it hits the wall. I couldn’t figure out yesterday why I had little bruises all over my right shoulder. Mystery solved.
I’m taking a break before I bust something else. I have time to mess with it on Friday.
I’m starting to think I should have called the appliance guy to begin with. Hindsight, right?
@sammydog01 at this point you have to do anything, up to and including a full renovation of your home, to solve this issue that you got yourself into as a minor diy problem. To call a repairman is to admit defeat. This is the diy code.
@sammydog01 I still think this part is a vacuum break of some kind. To prevent water (if it over-fills to the top) from backing into your water supply. If the water sprays out above the tub, you can do without that damn thing.
The tub would have to be full & the solenoid fail open and your water pressure fail, causing wash water to backfeed into your water supply. I guess it could happen…
Then, you’d just get a hose coupler (maybe 3/4"??).
Shit. Wish I was there to help.
@daveinwarsh It is the vacuum break. A bunch of online people just took them out. At this point since I have a new one that’s already hooked up to hose on both ends it’s almost foolproof. Almost.
@sammydog01 Operative word is “almost”. Right? Cuz otherwise this saga won’t have the requisite number of chapters before a satisfying conclusion.
Is this still going on? Gosh I wander off for a couple of days and it’s like I never left
@cranky1950 You sound like my husband. “Do we need to buy a new washer?” NOOOO! I just need a few more weeks.
Guess what I’m doing right now. Come on, guess. GUESS DAMMIT!
@sammydog01 washing dishes?
no wait I wan’t to change my guess…
washing a car?
@thismyusername Close. Sooooo close.
@sammydog01 icing your back?
@sammydog01 Cussing.
@sammydog01 Laundromat. You need company, I think. Here’s an Aussie firefighter.
@OldCatLady If he was at the laundromat I wouldn’t have fixed my washer. WHICH I DID!
@sammydog01 Congratulations! Bullheadedness and experimentation win again! What did you do?
/giphy persistence
@sammydog01 Washing Laundry! You fixed it. I knew you could do it. CONGRATS!!
@OldCatLady I replaced the broken part. That sounds kind of pathetic now that I hear it. Especially since it took exactly a month.
By the way I used one of these and I love them- you should sell them again.
https://meh.com/forum/topics/2-for-tuesday-ideaworks-multi-use-led-area-lights
Wahoo! Congratulations! @sammydog01 fixed her washer!
/giphy fireworks
@OldCatLady then there is washing machine vs fireworks:
Congrats @sammiedog01! Always worth saving these old machines as they are so much better than the new ones.
@Kidsandliz That’s excellent.
Laundry party at sammydog01’s place!
/giphy laundry party
Is that you @medz?
@Barney sure…
@medz Nice, um, legs.
@medz I call bullshit!
@cranky1950
/giphy calling bullshit
Congrats, may the sudz be with you.
So it broke again over Labor Day and blew smoke all over the house. I have been pretending I enjoy the company at the laundromat but finally pulled out my laptop and researched the symptoms. It might be a bad bearing (belt moves, drum doesn’t, grease spattered underneath). A new one goes for $60. They also suggest replacing some other stuff too- mounting stem kit for $70 and belts for $24.
Should I buy the bearing and see how things go or junk it?
@sammydog01
@sammydog01 Junk it.
@sammydog01 At the rate you are going you might end up paying more in repairs than it costs to replace. When you think about replacing it though don’t get sucked into sunk costs. You have already spent what you have spent. Is it a good enough machine to continue to replace parts with or is it perhaps basically worn out?
@medz @sammydog01 Take it behind the barn and shoot it.
@sammydog01 Yeah. Put it out of it’s misery.
@sammydog01 It’s probably time. I think you’ve gotten every worth out of the machine already.
Personal preference: skip LG and Samsung. Frigidaire hasn’t been all that good in recent times either; their slightly older ones were decent, though. GE remains to be seen, though given how they were before, they’ll probably improve under Haier.
If water usage isn’t a concern, this top loader is $430, delivery included:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-3-5-cu-ft-Top-Load-Washer-with-Agitator-White/1000064061
@narfcake @sammydog01 somehow I don’t think the 30+ year old machine was very water conscious.
@narfcake @sammydog01 Go for a Speed Queen! It’s going to be about 850 dollars, but a Whirlpool will probably have you at least replacing broken knobs in less than four years.
@narfcake Thanks- I’ll keep that in mind. I think I’ll probably stick with an agitator top loader but maybe not.
@Limewater We looked up Speed Queen- I need to stop by the appliance place. A few years of repair-free use would be very nice.
@Limewater @narfcake Fun fact, I just looked up washer reviews on Consumer Reports and the only top loaders rated below that exact Whirlpool (38/100) were three Speed Queens (31/100). I’m not sure I trust Consumer Reports anymore.
@narfcake @sammydog01 Actually, I may need to rescind my recommendation.
It looks like they changed things dramatically for their 2018 model, and not for the better.
https://thewirecutter.com/blog/speed-queen-washer/
Bummer!
@Limewater @narfcake @sammydog01 Our 12 yr old Kenmore front loader is over 12 yrs old. Has done 4 - 6 loads a week including large rugs. Never had any problems. We like front loaders because they use much less water (for our septic system) and can clean large bulky things better. Always leave the door of a front loader open when not in use to prevent musty smells.
ps… On anything (like a washer & dishwasher) using a solenoid to open/close a water valve, I use a mini in-line hammer arrestor to help prevent damage & leaking hoses…
@sammydog01 Might think about Craigslist for a replacement. I’ve seen some really nice units for cheap when people are moving & the machines have to go.
Go with front-loader for reduced water usage & less wear on clothes. I think the top-load agitators have shorter run times & some people swear clothes are cleaner.
@compunaut @sammydog01 I like with the older top loaders (with an older dryer) that the length of time it takes to wash the clothes matches the length of time it takes to dry them.
@Kidsandliz Me too, but the older machines simply don’t match the energy efficiency of the new ones.
@sammydog01 so $154 in parts and then basically the only things you haven’t replaced on it are the motor, solenoids, timers, water level switch and the actual drum and shell? Many of those parts don’t fail often (but keep an eye on that level switch, when it fails it sucks), so there’s a good chance this extends its life significantly. If it performed well for you, I’d figure that into a comparison with a new one. But if you’ve been eyeing the new hotness machines in the appliance stores or just thinking this one is a bit loud or takes too long, it’s a good opportunity to upgrade for sure.
@djslack There’s a water pump in there too, right? Also I did get some smoke- maybe just the belt but it didn’t smell like rubber to me. Can I tell if I damaged the motor when the drum jammed? I plan on taking it apart to make sure it’s not just a sock jammed under the drum, just in case.
@sammydog01 my bad, I thought the water pump was what you replaced recently. I didn’t reread any of the thread.
I guess my point was look at what else is left to fail when considering repair vs replace.
Motors are relatively easy. Brushes can wear out, bearings can fail/wear out, and if overheated they can burn up. Brushes are usually replaceable and pretty easy. If it spins smoothly and quietly bearings are ok. If windings burn up you’ll smell it, but many motors include a thermal fuse to protect against that, and when it goes they just stop until it either resets or is replaced depending what kind it is.
@Limewater @narfcake Another fun fact- my jackass plumber put in my tray sideways so I only have a depth of 29 inches from the wall. I can probably buy and install a new one, but what a dick. The extra 2 inches if he put it in properly would probably also make it possible to take the front panel off without putting it up on blocks.
@sammydog01 I know how you feel about that old machine of yours. I got an old Kenmore from my mom when I set up my old bedroom into a laundry room for her after she could no longer safely go down the basement steps. At that time I bought her a stackable Kenmore so she didn’t have to bend over to load her laundry, plus it didn’t take up much room.
This was over a dozen years ago, so her old machine is probably around 25 years old and just keeps perking away. I just sold her stackable to a friend. I would have kept it but my laundry space wasn’t configured to where it would fit.
Anyway, what I’m trying to say is that the old machines are the bestest. They pretty much last forever – until they don’t.
@Barney I’m sad to see it go. Maybe I should take it out to the backyard and set it on fire like the Vikings did?
@sammydog01 We all have fond memories of you and your old machine.
“Farewell faithful friend.”
Update: Although I have enjoyed meeting new people twice a week at the laundromat I called in the repair guy. Turns out the washer has its own breaker and it was tripped, and when he plugged it back in the motor smoked. So it’s the motor which is maybe $350 to repair.
He gave me two new washers to pick from, so off to Lowes. He also said the reason the new machines break is because the feds require washing machines to spin at twice the rmp of the old ones to reduce energy consumption with the dryer. I haven’t looked that up but it sounds legit. He also said buy the warranty.
And, yes, I feel like a failure.
@sammydog01 New ones break more often because there are more parts to break. Used to be basically tub/drum, motor, rollers, and belt. Now, appliances are “smart” and have more buttons/switches, circuits, digital displays, and computers in them.
@medz He said the electronics are a big problem, but the drum spinning faster is hard on everything.
@sammydog01 spin speed is probably what pre-wrinkles my jeans too…
@sammydog01 If you have a part number, perhaps check eBay for a good used motor?
@narfcake @sammydog01 Don’t listen to 'em! It’s dead. Move on.
@sammydog01 I will be adding to your thread soon with dryer repair
I hope you get to drying clothes at home soon!
@narfcake He said you might want to fix it, then I pointed out the puddle of oil.
@sammydog01 Oh, right.
@sammydog01 Well, you gave the washer a full life filled with the joys of laundry washed completely.
I’m glad you see it’s time to just let it go to the laundromat in the sky…
@sammydog01 what machines did he suggest?
@RiotDemon He recommended either the Whirlpool WTW5000DW or the GE GTW485ASJWS. (I think- I already can’t find the sheet with the info on it.) My husband said get the Whirlpool so I did. And I bought a 5 year warranty so I don’t to mess with this motherfucker again. At least for 5 years.
6 years ago I bought the bottom of the line Amana washer at best buy for 199.00 it is still cranking away. The lid sensor died 2 years ago but it was only 20 bucks off the internet and is the same sensor that whirlpool uses in their 1000.00 machine so figure if you buy a whirlpool you’re looking at a $400.00 service call in 3-4 years.
@cranky1950 I paid $120 for a 5 year warranty for my new $500 Whirlpool so I will indeed not be paying for a $400 service call in 3-4 years. It will be in 5 years and a week because that’s how things break if you buy the warranty.
You shouldda bought a speed queen. Aside from the cool name they’re still built like a tank.