@plymouthdave@RogerWilco Remember that Lithium Ion cells tend to have about a 300-500 cycle lifespan before they fall below 80% capacity. Leaving them fully charged for a long time can also degrade the batteries. Best to store long term at about 40-60% state of charge to get this to last a long time. Daily use, charging to full and discharging to say 10%? It’ll last 1-2 years before you start to see capacity issues or a cell failure.
Batteries like this with Lithium Iron Phosphate cells (abbreviated to LiFePO4) go 3,000 to 5,000 cycles before falling to 80% capacity, so 10 times the lifespan but do not cost 10x more than this.
When shopping, look at Watt Hours. While the Amp Hours or milliAmp Hours are interesting, unless they tell you the Voltage, they are hiding things. You get Watt Hours by multiplying the system voltage (usually 3 or 12 volts for these type of devices) by the number of Amp Hours capacity of the battery to get Watt Hours.
The higher the voltage, the more efficient the device will be.
3 volts at 96 Amp Hours = 288 Watt Hours
12 volts at 24 Amp Hours = 288 Watt Hours
For example, for $159 today get a CTECHi 200 watt max, 240 Watt hour (20 amp hour at 12 volts) LiFePO4 system similar to this, though 1/3rd the capacity, but will theoretically have a 10 times longer lifespan.
For $271 the Wattfun 300 watt max 298 Watt Hour (96 Amp Hour at 3.1 volts) will last 10 times longer.
The most equivalent I could find is the GoLabs R300, 299 Watt Hours, 300W max draw, $220 – this would retain its capacity 10 times longer than this item being sold due to the different type of battery inside. GoLabs may use crappy cells though, they claim 2000 cycles, whereas Grade A prismatic cells should manage 3000-5000 cycles before degrading below 80% capacity.
@awk@Dynamik tHE FACT YOU CAN CHARGE WITH SOLOR MAKES IT GOOD FOR ME JUST WORRIED THEY DIDN’T GET THESE WITH BAD BATTERIES READY TO EXPIRE IN THE NEXT 24 MONTHS, WOULD YOU BUY THIS IF IT WAS MANUFACTURED IN 2017?
@CraigDanger That’s a showstopper for me. My other intended use would be to power a boom-box radio for shooting at a drive-in with the grandkids next summer. (Drive-in theaters are scarce in New England because it’s a seasonal biz, and the price of the land is makes it hard to turn a profit.)
The last time I used the car’s radio, I needed a boost. I want a power bank that’s got me covered either way. Belt and suspenders.
I might be in the market, but I already got the refurbed Kodiak Power Station 100 from meh back in 2019, so I am not in the market. Yesterday I used the Kodiak on a Silvertone practice amp. Ran like a champ.
@cfg83, Wow, that Silvertone [Sears] brand brought back memories. My intro into the music/guitar world was by a guy who had a black Silver-tone guitar & dat super cheap Silvertone practice amplifier! Thanks, for the fn memories, cfg83!!…Man, Man, Man!
@cfg83@plymouthdave, Yeah, my 1st amp was a Fender Reverb Amp & I think it had tubes, but since that was around '65, my mind may b playing tricks on me. It do seems that I noticed one of them tubes turn a glowing blue & vibrate when I cranked up the reverb in her,…I don’t think I dreamed that, nor fn imagined that while on Purple Microdot , or Texas White- Lightning acid
@EricJA I can’t tell if this thing has a car cigarette lighter style output, but that is what you want to look for to run a CPAP for multiple nights. You get the car adapter for your machine and power it that way. Significantly more efficient usage of the power–you’d get a couple nights instead of a few hours from this if it has that dc output.
@EricJA If you get the DC cord for the CPAP (most have awailable)and run it without the heat/humidity it should run for a few nights. I got a similar power bank so I could take my CPAP when we travel because the CPAP specific ones were ridiculously expensive and couldn’t be used for anything else.
@davidtomlin@EricJA It had two DC outputs AND the accessory adaptor for plugging in 12-volt car devices. Yes, you get WAY more time from your CPAP getting the DC converter cord and running it that way.
So, I’m not seeing a wattage rating on the inverter, an amperage rating on the USB ports, or information as to what standards the USB-C port supports (QC, PD, bidirectional charging?). Perhaps I’ve missed them, but if not I’ve found the following by searching “The Internet ™”.
It looks like the inverter handles 200 watts (assumed to be Peak, which would have it at 140-160 continuous)
[EDIT: The Walmart listing also lists the inverter at 300 watt, which could have it at 200 watt continuous?]
2x USB A - 3.1A
1x USB A - QC3.0
1x USB-C - USB-PD 45W
As far as the documentation I’ve found goes, it doesn’t look like the machine can be charged by the USB-PD port, but if someone finds out otherwise please do let us know! That’s the make or break feature for me personally, because I’m lazy and I like using my laptop charger for everything.
Mine arrived today. It’s physically smaller than I was expecting, but that’s OK. The internal batteries were at 27% according to its own meter, and it’s charging now. I’ll run a few tests to see how it stacks up as a 12V power source versus a UB12220 SLA battery.
I’m in Houston. FXG from the DFW area is generally overnight, and I suspect mine was one of the first of these to get out.
I’ve got it set up running 12V power to a laptop with a mostly-empty battery, a cell phone (ditto), and one other USB device that needs charging, and so far it looks like I can expect about five hours of runtime at this load - which probably means a good bit more than that in fact, once the device batteries are charged. If I was using the power via the 110V inverter, I suspect that my runtime would be about half that. Hurray for Dell laptops with a 12V-capable power brick!
I connected my LG 300-watt solar panel through a buck converter to charge it at 24V. It displayed up to about 55 watts. The specs on the box says charging voltages:. DC 13 to 24V/2.4A,. It’s about 60-watt. I don’t think this unit supports higher power charging unless I increase the voltage, but I don’t want to risk it.
Got mine out of storage and charged it up. It only took 1.5 hours to charge starting from a single blinking bar (empty).
It says “FUL” but only has about 50 wh of power stored up, and the bar graph immediately drops down to one bar.
Opened it up, and the first group of cells (between large black wire and small red wire) is at 3.5 volts, while the other two are at their max voltage of 4.2 volts.
So, a severe pack imbalance (due to storage?) leading to reduced capacity. I’m manually charging just the low part of the pack to get them all up to 4.2v.
Opening tips: You should just unsolder the large red wire that goes to the bottom circuit board. There isn’t enough play to remove/access the battery otherwise without unscrewing both the AC and DC circuit boards.
Will these work with any solar panels? Many years ago (10 maybe?) I bought goal zero solar panels and have been using them in conjunction with a small yeti (bought a few years ago), which I think might be dead now. I hang the panels outside my window and just charge my small devices whenever they need it (PS controllers, heaphones, keyboards, mice, tablet, etc.).
@Narwalt Video above user demonstrates a monitor with a very long run time. Smart TV obviously will use more amps/watts therefore with much less run time. For your Super Bowl party in your backyard it will work nicely.
@Narwalt@whomeyesu TV size is probably more important with wattage consumption than smart vs dumb tv. Those back lights or OLEDs take a lot of power and the larger the TV, the more back lighting is needed.
i LOVE GADGETS LIKE THIS BUT I NEED TO KNOW IF THE BATTERIES WERE MANUFACTURED 5 YEARS AGO OR RECENT, MAKES THE WHOLE DIFFERENCE ON THE LONGEVITY OF THIS ITEM SO, MEH LET ME KNOW AND I’LL BE IN FOR MAYBE MORE THAN 1 AS GIFTS TY IN ADVANCE
Yikes, @mellowirishgent. Way to disparage an entire profession. I actually AM an English teacher, and I didn’t say anything to invoke your wrath.
Though I probably should mention that you seem to have a faulty understanding of contractions and apostrophes…
@mike808 THINK ABOUT THIS MIKE, HOW EASY WOULD IT HAVE BEEN TO JUST IGNORE ME? BUT YOU, NO, YOU HAD TO MENTION THE LARGE TYPE WHICH IS MEANIGLESS, YOU ARE TRYING TO HARD TO BE MEAN SPIRITED, MOB MENTALITY OVER WHAT CAPS? DID I MAKE YOUR DAY?FEEL BETTER I’M GOING ON 70, 90% BLIND AND ONE FOOT IN THE COFFIN. GREAT JOB MIKE 808.YOU’RE A GEM.
@mellowirishgent it is unnecessary what you are doing and honestly toxic to this community. It seems you are set out to provoke and then lash out.
Writing all caps is typically considered as yelling in online forums and poor netiquette. Exceptions may exist such as specific disabilities. But your responses after that suggests you are just here to troll.
@datruandi TROLL WITH WELL OVER 200 PURCHASES THATS FUNNY I ASKED A VERY GOOD QUESTION AND YOU TURNED IT INTO A SHIT SHOW NOT EVERYONE LAYS DOWN TO BULLIES BECAUSE THATS EXACTLY WHATS GOING ON HERE 99% OF MY POST ARE JUST FINE SO TONITE I TYPE IN CAPS AND I’M NOT FIT FOR THE FORUM QUIT BEING A BULLY AND BE MORE CONSIDERATE I DIDN’T SLAP YOU JUST TYPED IN CAPS FOR CHRIST SAKES GIVE IT A BREAK
@datruandi 8/10 POST ARE PEOPLE TRYING TO BE CLEVER AND UNRELATED TO THE TOPIC OR PRODUCT, ITS LIKE THE LETS SEE WHO CAN BE THE MOST CLEVER FORUM, OR LETS ATTACK THIS GUY NOT BOTHERING ANYONE BECAUSE HE TYPED IN CAPS LETS LET HIM KNOW THATS NOT OK HOW DARE HE TYPE IN CAPS DOESEN’T HE KNOW HOW OFFENSIVE THAT IS ? GO PLAY XBOX AND TAKE YOUR ANGER OUT THERE.
@mellowirishgent the ability to buy stuff is not correlated to acting like a troll or not.
Your behavior is trolling. You intentionally keep using all caps just to annoy people and lash out including directly insulting people who tell you that it is considered shouting.
I wonder if you would be so “nice” if it were not online.
netiquette is established for well over 3 decades now.
Maybe show some common sense?
@datruandi IF SOMEONE LIKE YOUR SELF IS OFFENDED AT CAPS WHAT DOES THAT SAY ABOUT YOU? ON TILT 24/7 JUST WAITING FOR THAT ONE GUY TO TYPE IN CAPS LISTEN TO YOURSELF, GROW UP BRAT I ASKED A SIMPLE QUESTION THE MANUFACTURE DATE THATS NOT TROLLING IF NO ONE WANTS TO ANSWER FINE BUT THE CAP THING WELL ESTABLISHED FOR 30 YEARS ,UMM CORNY WOKE LEFT IF YOU DON’T GET YOUR WAY YOU DESTROY YOUR EVERYTHING THATS WRONG WITH THIS COUNTRY MINDING OTHER PEOPLES BUSINESS . PREACHING WHATS RIGHT AND WRONG WHO MADE YOU THE MEH POLICE? FOR THE RECORD I HAVE CLOSE TO 1200 LIKES TO MY COMMENTS YOU HAVE 300 EXPLAIN HOW I RECIEVED 1200 LIKES IF I AM A TROLL? SEEMS YOU ARE THE ONE TROLLING ME ?
@mellowirishgent I am happy for you that you received so many likes. It must mean a lot to you. I suggest to try to learn to listen instead of the online equivalent of yelling. This convention together with other aspects of netiquette emerged sometime in the 80s mostly in Usenet and has been around since then. You can of course choose to ignore it, but don’t wonder then why people think of you being rude and a troll if you keep doing it even though you have been told about it.
@mellowirishgent did I use rude language towards you or was I impolite to you? What does that make you feel bullied? Maybe you are the triggered one after all? You started the diatribe about the “woke left” that has nothing to do with this forum.
You can do indeed mostly what you want, but don’t expect everybody to agree with you and shut up.
I would be interested in this for getting a laptop to run even a couple of hours, with the docking station and a monitor or two would be perfect. With the idea of being able to function a little bit if I had to work remotely in a hopefully short power outage.
Update; After several hours of playing possum vs all proddings, it responded to the charger and took for fecking ever to charge back up. It’s anybody’s guess wherher it will nonchalantly act like nothing was wrong. We ahall see.
After recharging, it acted like it was going to be normal. For several hours, it continued to forecast that it had 9 to 10 hours of runtime available. Then, abruptly, the bar gauge for the battery capacity plummeted from three bars to two bars to one in a short period, and it gave up again.
Further adventures; the second attempt to recharge produced The Smell Of Impending Release Of Magic Smoke, and the battery charge state indicator never climbed above one bar. At that point, I decided that exploratory surgery was warranted. So far, nothing crispy has been detected visually. It appears that the welded-together battery pack (24 INR18650 2500mAh cells, look genuine) is probably okay, but I want to discharge it safely before doing much of anything else.