@whover makes the dash cam demo videos in the future:
Over 40% of traffic collisions occur at intersections. Therefore it’s important to know what kind of Field Of View video coverage a camera provides when entering an intersection.
The best possible way to illustrate this is at a stop sign (ideally a 4-way stop) so your audience can get a fair perspective of how long cross traffic stays within the FOV.
A camera with too narrow a FOV won’t actually show any cross traffic when entering an intersection (the image has effectively passed through the intersection before the vehicle enters the intersection). Whereas a wider FOV, say 170*, will actually show cross traffic until you’re nearly through the intersection.
In this case, the video doesn’t illustrate FOV in a way we, the viewers, can judge FOV performance.
We can see in the frame grab above, the nearest oncoming vehicle (the little dark colored crossover SUV to the left) is just crossing the nearside curb extension line of Branch Hollow Way, while the FOV vehicle is still a fair bit from the intersection.
So while the vehicles stopped at the light to the right of the FOV vehicle are still in frame just as the FOV vehicle enters the intersection, any cross traffic which may have been coming from the left would no longer be visible at the point the FOV vehicle enters the intersection.
Therefore, based upon the criteria asserted in my original post, this camera would probably receive a grade of “C” (meets minimum requirements). Suitable for an offering on a mediocre website, innit.
Weighing price versus capability, I’d say this is a fair purchase if you’re looking for piece of mind, and don’t really expect to ever have a need for the video to provide evidence in your behalf. If you’re more serious about protecting your interests, expect to spend more and get more. Probably twice as much for a camera with a wider 170* FOV.
Worth noting: Camera manufacturers can represent the FOV differently. There is a horizontal FOV (the value that matters most in this application), a vertical FOV, and some manufacturers will represent a “diagonal FOV”.
Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples when shopping out a device. Ideally a dash cam will offer 170* horizontal FOV. When mounted on the windshield, your image would ideally cover an area from A pillar to A pillar (the front windshield post on either side of your dash).
@trisk I got a cheap crap (was $14) 720p dashcam from woot that mostly sucks about two years ago. It came with a rather long (6-7’) cable. I ran the wire from my rear view mirror up to the edge of the windshield, then around the edge to the bottom left corner of the windshield where it drops down the left side of the dash (between the door and dash) and then under the edge of the dash back to the center where it plugs in. With the door closed only about 6" of the wire is visible, 3" above the mirror and the rest at the bottom left corner of the windshield. I originally used pieces of parking receipts (very thin thermal paper here in NY City) folded into thick but narrow strips to secure the wire, primarily because they were handy and planned to use clear silicone aquarium sealant to properly secure the wire. However, the folded bits of paper have worked so well that I’ve had no need to replace them.
There appears to be no provision to allow either detectors or GoPro type cameras anywhere on the windshield.
Approved devices may be used in three sections: Bottom left, bottom right, and center top:
(11) An electronic communication device affixed to the center uppermost portion of the interior of a windshield within an area that is not greater than five inches square, if the device provides either of the following:
(A) The capability for enforcement facilities of the Department of the California Highway Patrol to communicate with a vehicle equipped with the device.
(B) The capability for electronic toll and traffic management on public or private roads or facilities.
GPS (only) devices (specifically) are allowed in either of the corners, but not the center.
And cameras can also be in the center, provided that they are ‘event cameras’:
Can you turn off the speed display in the recordings?
Would suck to have an insurance claim rejected because they noticed you were 5 over the limit (who knows how accurate the GPS fix on this is, anyway).
“There is a major problem with the MiVue cameras. In the event of an impact or if you manually press the Event button, the camera only locks and saves that file from the point of impact or button onwards. Other cameras will save the entire clip or 30 seconds before the event. This way you can save what led up the wreck. If someone runs a red light, pulls out, etc you want to prove what caused the collision.”
@Thinkerer This appears to be simply incorrect, as noted in the comment made in response to the very review you are quoting. And, directly from the manufacturer’s product information: “Impact sensor triggers auto save of recorded video when impact occurs.” “G-Shock Impact Sensor – Lock Critical Video and Data - If a vehicle collision occurs, the built-in G-Shock Impact Sensor automatically locks the recorded video footage, location data, and date/time information prior to the incident, providing an accurate record of events. Videos may be played back on the device or on Mac and Windows based computers.”
@wa27 I would never ever ever do this for too many reasons to list – I think littering should be a punchable offense – BUT this reminds me of how much I hate it when fast food places don’t provide a trash can at the end of the drive through.
Then again, if there HAD been a trash can, this asshat would have chucked a full cup in it.
Alright, you guys, I need recommendations. Hubs and I work in a place where dash cams aren’t allowed. Of course, lots of cars have them built-in these days, and nobody is making the rich folks remove their mirrors, so the rule is bullshit.
I live in a place that is crawling with testosterone-poisoned idiots and elderly people who can’t hold their phone and their lane at the same time. I need a camera, dammit.
So the obvious solution is a model that replaces my rear view mirror and has long enough cables for full concealment. I do require a rear lens (or better, the ability to patch into my car’s backup camera), since 50% of all idiots are behind me.
True story: just this past Monday, around 4 PM, I totaled my Honda Civic. Single car, wet road, and I felt it slipping a bit earlier in the day so I slowed down when I was on it again, but still the front end broke loose at low speed in a curve, we crossed the center and hit the ditch next to the oncoming lane, the front wheels grabbed and the car rolled over on its roof.
Miraculously I have yet to find a single thing that was broken besides the damage to the car itself. Every glass and ceramic object in a box of stuff I was taking to work survived intact. My elbow got scraped and the 6-year-old’s knee got a little cut. A deputy was coming the other way and actually saw us hit and roll, so he was on-scene assisting almost before we came to rest.
We were the second accident on that road that afternoon. The people who had the first one were behind him getting a ride and saw us have ours; we ran into them later going into the hospital as we were coming out.
By 7:30 PM we were home eating carryout from Glory Days, which had actually been the original plan for the night prior to the accident. It was a weird day…
So yeah, I just picked up two of these. Too much random crap can happen on the road.