FeiYu Tech MiNi 3D Camera Gimbal
1My ninja gimbal arrived this afternoon. That is to say, my super-stealthy looking FeiYu Tech MiNi 3D gimbal.
Purchased from Digital Tech Zone on Aliexpress. Purchased on July 6, received on July 20. Two weeks processing and delivery. Not bad. Nearly everything I've purchased from Aliexpress sellers has been delivered in a timely manner. I checked with the seller before purchasing to confirm I'd be receiving the latest version of this gimbal. Early production models had some structural deficiencies which resulted in stability issues in some installations. The version I received was, in fact, the latest structural design, as well as some changes to the controller hardware and a firmware bump.
Total cost (after discounts and coupon code) was $141.62. That's a pile of dosh, but for a 3D gimbal, I feel like it's very reasonable.
My initial impression after taking it out of the box? It seems like a very well made piece of kit. Lots of thought went into the design and aesthetics. In addition to feeling solid and sturdy, the fit and finish is top shelf. And let's face it... it just LOOKS cool! LOL!
Included in the box was:
- Gimbal
- Anti-jello mount with 6 ball points
- Tarot style rail mount
- USB cable and adapters for firmware upgrades and configuration
- Connection cables for power, axis control, VTX and GoPro FPV
- Instruction manual and warranty card
There were three features which sold me on this purchase:
- 255 degree yaw axis rotation
- GoPro pass-thru connection in the camera mount
- 3 mode functions that can be controlled remotely
The 255 degree yaw axis rotation is pretty self-explanatory. You can manually rotate the gimbal on it's yaw axis from -120* through +130*. Depending on the mode function, it will continue full motion compensation, even when looking backwards at your flight path.
The GoPro pass-thru connection is a unique feature I haven't seen on any other gimbal. There's a short patch cable (included in the box) to connect your GoPro to the camera mount. This pass-thru port passes along your GoPro's video and audio through the gimbal to the main connection points at the top of the gimbal mount. This makes for a clean and easy connection to your VTX gear. As an added bonus... it also incorporates a power/charge function through the same port. I can use my GoPro without a battery.
The 3 mode functions are a bit more difficult to comprehend when you read about them. They are:
- Heading Follow Mode - Camera Pitch and Roll angles remain constant, heading follows the nose position,pitch can be control by RC
- Heading And Pitch Follow Mode - Camera Roll angle remains constant. Heading follow the nose position and Pitch follow the elevation of the aircraft.
- Heading Lock Mode - Heading, Pitch and Roll are all locked to point at one position. Heading and pitch can be control by RC .
First things first... I have to install this onto one of my drones. It's intended home is the Walkera Tali H500 hexacopter. But for now I think I'll put it on either the Quanum Nova, or the Cheerson CX-20 for ease of installation. They both have power and AUX outlets on the bottom of the fuselage for easy gimbal connection.
Once I get a chance to check it out I'll post some pics and a video of it in action.
So far... not plugged in yet... but I'm pretty impressed with the thing.
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Did a quick and dirty installation and test of the new gimbal tonight. Video was recorded on the GoPro H3+ Black in 1080p/60 "Normal View".
Dang this thing has lightning fast response time. I'd say it's twice as fast as my Walkera G-3D with a heck of a lot more travel in every axis. This was recorded with the GoPro battery installed. I expect the responsiveness to improve a bit when I remove the extra weight of the camera battery and run power through the gimbal.
Just for fun I also wired up a VTX via the gimbal pass-thru and monitored the experience on my Devo F12e. Everything worked great.
The only thing I haven't figured out: How to set the operating modes either manually, or via an AUX channel. Maybe tomorrow night? Maybe not. I have SO many drone projects on the bench right now. I'm anxious to get back to assembling the 250 project, so maybe the gimbal will have to wait for this weekend.
Video is uploaded and is now processing on YouTube. Should be live in a few minutes...
@ruouttaurmind I have been messing with configuration on my Quanum Nova. I only have 2 AUX ports with easy access through the bottom of the fuselage. I'm shooting in the dark here because the instructions say NOTHING about how to connect and configure mode control lines. So I disconnected Pitch control and connected Mode Control to that AUX channel. Now I can switch between the various modes by rotating the AUX1 pot. When rotated completely CC I can control yaw with AUX2 pot.
I guess I'm going to have to open up and route an additional AUX line through the fuselage, then map that line to one of the switches on the remote TX. Then I guess it's a matter of messing with various frequencies to figure out which activates what mode.
Still love it! Don't love the instructions so much. ;-)
@ruouttaurmind,
Did you find a solution?
I'm new here. I bought a mini3D and am trying to figure it out how to install it.
you used the original holes or created new ones?
Best R
@fferro For mounting I created an adapter plate (on 3D printer; but just as easily done with hand tools and a drill).
As far as the mode control and pan/pitch controls, I pretty much just gave up on controlling pan, and left my aux channels connected to mode, and pitch.
What are you mounting it on?
@ruouttaurmind So, you connect red/black (power), blue (pitch) and brown/black (mode) to the base of the drone and that's it. We just have to be careful with the polarity on the power, right?
Thank you for your advices
@fferro Yes, that's the leads I'm using. I've left the white Yaw control disconnected and the Yellow/Black Video disconnected.
Power is the only thing that can damage your gimbal. As long as you have the power polarity correct, and you're connecting to a power source that provides at least 7VDC (mini3D is rated for 7VDC-17VDC power), nothing else is going to cause damage if connected incorrectly. Your controls may not work right, but no damage will occur.
What kind of UAV are you connecting to?
@ruouttaurmind I have a cheap and old Cheerson CX 20 (or quanum nova).
which is the best way to keep the legs of the drone out of sight of the camera? Is that possible?
Thank you!
@fferro I have a CX-20 and a Nova. I love them! For me, they fly great, they're versatile and well designed for upgrades. For example the servo and power connectors on the bottom of the fuselage, and the two AUX channels on the TX (both connected to the servo ports on the bottom). Installing my first cheap Chinese gimbal only took about five minutes before everything was installed and working, and I was ready to fly. Plus, MissionPlanner compatible right out of the box!
I still use the OEM landing gear, so I get them into the shot on a regular basis, but I just edit out in post with a scene fade and nobody's the wiser. I DO wish the OEM landing gear was taller though. Once you've got a gimbal mounted, there's not much ground clearance.
There are a couple of after market landing gear options available, and modifying the original gear would be easy-peasy. Maybe one day I'll get around to it. But for now, I'm satisfied.
Hi @ruouttaurmind, nice to meet you.
I have a couple of questions about the CX 20 but I guess this is not the proper place. May I post it in another or mail to you?
Thanks
Happy to help if I can, @fferro! You can start a new thread, maybe in the Tech section?
@ruouttaurmind How do you mount the mini3D to the CX 20?
I've seen some using the two original holes, but looks like them are a little shifted. Also, the connectors are blocked by the base of the gimbal and a notch must be cut to free them again.
I heard that some choose to mount the gimbal vertically to avoid this...
@fferro I mounted mine using a Walkera Quick Rail top plate, and a 3D printed spacer on top of the mini3D. This does two things: 1. It allows me to quickly remove the gimbal for travel, repair or adjustment. 2. It gives me about 1/4" of clearance between the mounting plate and the connectors on the bottom of the fuselage. When mounting, I connect the mini3D connectors for power and signal, slide the gimbal onto the rail, then plug the cable harness into the back of the gimbal.
@fferro My top plate mod. Sorry for the fuzzy #2 pic, but I think you prolly get the idea.
The same thing could be accomplished with a small piece of scrap aluminum. Just cut and file to size, drill mounting holes for the fuselage, and mounting holes for the mini3D. Then, when you screw the mini3D to the plate, just use some aluminum or plastic/nylon spacers.
But the Walkera rail plate and rail was less than $10 from Aliexpress and adds the ability to mount/unmount the gimbal in about 20 seconds.
@ruouttaurmind with so much clearance at the top, you left little or no safe space to maneuver when landing, right? You must be a very good pilot.
You add anti-vibration gel to get better videos I guess. I bought damping balls with more stiffness to reduce them. I hope to get good results too.
@fferro I think the pictures may be a little misleading. Once mounted, the whole adapter plate and spacers only add about 1/4" to the assembly. So I'm only 1/4" closer to the ground. I'll post a pic of the gimbal mounted to the CX-20 when I get home from work today.
@ruouttaurmind OK. For now I will install it using holes provided in the base...
Tomorrow will be my maiden flight with the new gimbal on my Cx 20. New and balanced 3 props blades also.
Do I have to recalibrate something on my CH 20? Why? Could the gimbal interfere with some electronic equipment? (an electromagnetic field may be)...
Is it ok to mount it using the original holes or is it better to concentrate on the center of gravity?
Thanks
@fferro Sorry I haven't followed up with a pic of my mini3D mounted to the CX-20. Mea culpa.
I've mounted mine a bit more forward of COG. This helps keep the rotors and landing gear out of the camera view a bit. Remember the flight controller will attempt to compensate for any balance issues, so unless you've got it sticking WAY out there, you should be reasonably ok. It may slide forward a bit in manual mode, but it seems to do well in GPS/Loiter mode.
Nothing needs to be recalibrated in the CX-20. As long as it's level when you connect the battery, the flight controller will do the rest.
Gimbal is unlikely to interfere with anything, particularly on this model. Flight controller, GPS and magnetometer (compass) are all mounted well away from the gimbal, up above in the top of the fuselage. There have been some potential issues reported on models with the magnetometer mounted on the leg (like Phantom) due to the proximity of the metal gimbal and gimbal electronics, but in your case, you're golden. No worries there.
Have you flown the CX-20 yet, WITHOUT the gimbal? It's definitely best to fly a bit before doing any mods so you can be sure the model is flying properly, and to get used to the controls and flight characteristics before adding another 200+ grams of weight onto it. It still flies well with the gimbal, but it flies a bit more like a dump truck than a Bentley GT Speed with the added weight. If you aren't familiar with flying it yet, definitely get at least half a dozen flights under your belt before strapping on the gimbal.
@ruouttaurmind Thank you for the advice. I'm a good pilot in manual mode.
The cable to my camera came with 4 connectors, so the gopro takes power from there.
I do not want this, to free the 3S LiPo and only power the CX 20.
Is it possible?
Which ones do I have to take off to let my composite video on but not the 5V?
I know there is a 100K resistor on the PCB to turn on the output from the camera but do not know which connector it needs.
@fferro If I understand your message correctly, you do NOT want to power your GoPro from the mini3D gimbal. You only want the video passthrough, not the power. Is that correct?
I'm sorry I don't recall which of the four wires are for power. I think it's the two inside wires. But you can confirm this by connecting the cable to the Mini3D gimbal, and NOT the GoPro, then check for 5VDC between inside pair, and outside pair. Wherever you find the +5VDC, remove that pin from the connector on either end. Put a little heat shrink tube over it as insulation, so you can come back later and remove the insulation and reinsert the pin if you ever decide you want this feature.
@ruouttaurmind Every went smooth with my new gimbal. Thank you for your help.
I cut off the power to the gopro camera, just cutting the first of the four cables.
Now I fixed some issues with the camera feeding through its own battery, and keep the FPV function.
I cannot upgrade the firmware. The gimbal bind with the PC software but for some reason it does not complete the upgrade.
Feiyu-Tech told me I have to send the gimbal to them but this is not an option, because the delivery from my country cost as much as the product itself.
I will have to fix it from here... May be some USB connector issues... I can deal with this but nothing more.
I control the pitch only even both aux channels are working. I guess the gimbal is in a Mode where I can control this function only.
How do I know in which mode the gimbal is? I can not connect the gimbal to the setting software even.
Do I have to connect the brown/black cable to S1 or S2 and try to change the mode with one of the remote controllers?
@fferro You can connect the gimbal pitch control to one servo port, and the mode wires (black/brown) to the other. Then you can use the dials on your CX-20 controller. One dial will adjust pitch, the other will adjust mode.
There is no way to tell which mode the gimbal is in without a "practical test". This means moving the CX-20 and watching how the gimbal respond.
If you want more control of gimbal, you will need to upgrade your radio system to add more channels. You would need a 10 channel radio transmitter, and a 10 channel receiver. 10 channels will allow you to control gimbal pitch, gimbal mode and gimbal yaw, plus still control all of CX-20 functions.
@ruouttaurmind The gimbal has a blue LED where the cables get into the base. Blinks different showing the mode is set.
Heading And Pitch Follow - Blue LED Blinking 1 pulse
Heading Follow - Blue LED Blinking 2 pulses
Heading Lock - Blue LED turns on
@fferro Excellent information. I never noticed.
Did you get mode control working on AUX2 (S2) on the CX-20?
@ruouttaurmind Yes! after some errors... and trials... more errors...
First one: the first time I power on the gimbal through the 12V at the PCB on the base of the CX 20... there was a burn out...
I guess the cable (very thin) cannot support this power consumption.
I cut out both cables, ground and +12V to the PCB. And added another 12V to power on the gimbal directly from the battery.
To avoid another failure, I cut out the +5V to the same PCB (the red one which came paired with the signal cable from -2, white at the receptor).
Then I found out that there is no ground to the servo signals, so: I added another cable from the ground of the radio receptor (-2) to the ground at the S1/S2 of the PCB (these two are connected together).
Now I have mode change and Pitch control...
Brown/Black to S1 and Blue to S2 of the PCB.
Yet I have no yaw control, because there is not another free channel...
@ruouttaurmind MY AUX CONTROLS ARE NOT DOING ANYTHING TO THE GIMBAL, BROWN BLACK TO S1, BLUE TO S2, IT TRIES TO MOVE BUT NOTHING HAPPENING, AM I MISSING SOMETHING
@andavis642, did you check the connections inside the CX 20? some units does not have any leds between the RX and the PCB at the base.
Nice and with its vertical installation this could be a nice addition to the FPV quads.
@DJMajickMan Sure, right up there on top deck!
@ruouttaurmind actually I was thinking the last mounting method at the front of the quad. Help adjust your center of balance too.
@DJMajickMan Good point on COG. If battery is towards rear, camera up front, it prolly balances out.
@DJMajickMan good if you're flying tame... I don't even want my fpv cam lens out in front of the frame because I feel sure I'm going to smack something going fast :)
@djslack Well driving at a wall at 88 miles an hour isn't advisable unless you're in a Delorean rebuilt by Doc Brown. ;) but yeah I guess that could be a concern.
However, you could probably still mount close to the front but not over the nose so that the fuselage takes the brunt of the impact, and still giving you some decent COG adjustment. I just think having it, with everything else, top mounted is going to mess with the COG making it top heavy. Sort of like when I first mounted my dual battery kit on the P1.1.1 and they were mounted low it caused a lot of hard to control turns and adjustments. Once I remounted with them closer to the fuselage it flew much smoother.
Banggood has the FieYu Tech MiNi 3D gimbal on sale for $139.99 FROM THE USA WAREHOUSE! Pay a couple dollars less than I did when I ordered from China, but have it in 2 days!
This is the new, improved version with structural and firmware improvements. If you want a 3 axis gimbal, this deal is the best game in town right now.
With your glowing review... I want. 149.39 currently on Banggood though, CN warehouse.
@sportykev PASS! Run away, screaming! DO. NOT. BUY.
@ruouttaurmind do not buy period, or do not buy the one they advertise specifically?
@sportykev Read my full reply below. I absolutely recommend a pass on this one from FYT (FeyYu Tec).
If you want an affordable 3D gimbal, consider the Walkera G-3D or the Tarot. I haven't owned a Tarot, but like the Walkera, replacement parts are readily available.
Safe to say that the 4-ball joint version is the first revision aka not the good one?
@sportykev The 4 ball version is the original. 6 ball is the second generation. There are more improvements than just the number of balls.
@ruouttaurmind
@sportykev Buckle-up SK, 'cause here's this on that:
DO. NOT. BUY.
I received my gimbal about a month ago. It included the wrong GoPro interface cable. I've been going back and forth with FYT, also the seller, also hours of searching the interwebs trying to get the GoPro charge/video cable that should have come with the gimbal.
FYT wants to charge me US$31 to send me a "free" cable (that's almost 1/4 the cost of the entire gimbal including shipping!). And the seller is completely clueless.
If I had it to do over, I would pass on this gimbal. Here's why:
Support from the manufacturer is horrible; support from most sellers is a joke. FYT doesn't have any kind of vetting program, so anyone can (and does) sell their products. Unfortunately, FYT refers support issues to the seller, then the sellers don't know squat about the FYT product they're selling. And they don't care. Once the seller has your money and the buyer has their gimbal, as far as they are concerned they've fulfilled their responsibility.
No... and I mean NO spare parts are available. Anywhere. As much trouble as I've been having trying to get the missing GoPro interface cable, I figured I'd just purchase one. But I can't find a seller who offers one. I'd also like to have a spare controller board interface cable (power, signal, video, etc). But again, nobody seems to sell them. Lack of parts are a particular problem, especially considering...
These things are puff pastry! Puff pastry I say. The entire pitch and roll assembly are connected to the yaw arm by a THIN PLASTIC HOUSING. This thin plastic is VERY easy to damage.
After tiring of waiting for the GoPro cable, I took mine for a test flight last weekend. I saddled it up to the Tali and took to the sky.
On landing, I was caught up in prop wash, I bounced my landing a bit. The six rubber anti-jello balls pulled loose from the mounting bracket, and the entire lower half of the gimbal fell about 10 inches to the ground, breaking in half. This landing wasn't even rough enough to tip over the Tali, but the six balls came out and the cheesy plastic gimbal broke in half.
Very VERY poor design! Very thin plastic housing holding the whole thing together? Sure, I recognized the housing was plastic, but I surmised there would be some kind of aluminum bracket inside holding it all together. Nope. Just crappy plastic.
So now my US$140 gimbal is useless since replacement parts are nonexistent.
Further, if that's not enough reasons to skip this gimbal, the video I was able to record before the mishap was rubbish! Horrible jello effect, and awful juddering during yaw rotation of the aircraft. When rotating the Tali, the gimbal struggles for smooth motion in the yaw axis, then overshoots and rebounds 2 or 3 times before stopping. My US$130 Walkera G3-D gimbal is much, much more stable. Plus, the Walkera is all aluminum. Plus, Walkera repair parts are EVERYWHERE. For CHEAP. I've completely rebuilt my Walkera G3 from cheap, readily available replacement parts purchased from eBay, Banggood, AliExpress and even GoodLuckBuy. Parts are plentiful and SO inexpensive it's almost like stealing them. And they're solid aluminum (in the case of the G3 anyway).
I've gone back and forth with FYT trying to get a new plastic housing. They insist the gimbal must go back to the factory for repair, and refuse to provide a new crappy plastic housing. Now I'm in the process of drafting a replacement part. Ideally my new part will incorporate an aluminum support inside a 3D printed housing to fix this massive design flaw.
I encourage you to reconsider. I am out US$140 on this plastic piece of crap gimbal. Please learn from my bad experience!
@ruouttaurmind appreciate the feedback!! The test vid on the site looked amazing but I trust your judgement. It's unfortunate that there is so little support out there for us tinkerers. I kind of feel this way with the Eachine 2D BGC from Banggood. I just cannot get it working properly and so few documentation and/or 10s of revisions I don't know what's what anymore. I just want a solid product from a solid manufacturer.
Is this the Walkera you are praising? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walkera-G-3D-3-Axis-Brushless-Camera-Gimbal-For-iLook-ILOOK-Gorpo-3-3-Black-US-/181561634226
I'd gladly pay premium to not have to deal with meshed up #$!@
@sportykev Aye, that's the G-3D gimbal. I have one (I've crashed and repaired twice now) and @garyhgaryh also has one.
I won't say it's the smoothest, most awesome 3D gimbal on the market, but priced $200 less than the Zenmuse it delivers very good performance, and a smoother picture than the FYT (caviat: the FYT has faster response, but the Walkera is smoother in all axis).
If you're loaded, and dosh is not a consideration, pay the big bucks for a Zenmuse 3d. If you're like the rest of us, the G-3D is a great plug-n-play option.
Something else to consider if you wish... I have a new-in-box Walkera aluminum G-2D gimbal that a disreputable Amazon seller sold as a 3D gimbal. (we wound up agreeing on a partial refund). I'd send it your way via USPS Priority for $75 and you'd have it by Friday (I'd bench test it first to make sure you can plug-n-play without any problems when it arrives).
@ruouttaurmind oh my, what an offer. I would have considered it if I didn't already sink $50 on this banggood gimbal. I'm at the point where I just want something better, and while I'm at it, get another axis working. I'm definitely not going to buy a zenmuse that practically cost more than the drone itself! I'm sorry you got ripped on AMZ, I would've disputed with my CC at that point! G-3D it is. Do you know if I can pitch using my transmitter lever?
Thanks!
@sportykev You can pitch with your transmitter lever. It will basically connect exactly like your current gimbal. It should be plug-n-play. At least of the 3 Walkera gimbals I've installed so far, all three have worked out of the box without any tuning or tweaking.
@ruouttaurmind WORD UP. Did the G-3D have a number of iterations too? I'm checking eBay, looks like about $140 shipped is the best price. Tarot seems to be in the same ballpark as well.
@sportykev G-3D had some firmware revs, but hardware has been pretty much unchanged since it's release. It's been stable for a very long time.
This is the lowest price I found on the Walkera G-3D: $122.90 after seller coupon is applied.
When you're viewing the item, make sure you click on the "Get a $6 coupon" button before adding the item to your cart. Then on checkout the $6 discount will automagically be applied.
@ruouttaurmind whoa sweet find. What's with all these banggood-like websites? Are these genuine wares? Is the market that much bigger outside the states for drone stuff?
@sportykev Whereas Banggood and Gearbest and the like are solely owned and operated storefronts, AliExpress is sort of like China's version of Amazon. Payments are processed by, and transactions guaranteed by AliExpress (it's parent company, Alibaba, has been a B2B source since the late '90's). Like eBay and Amazon, the competition is all within the same website, so it forces the sellers to offer their best possible deals. Unlike eBay and Amazon, Chinese sellers have an advantage because the company is in China and fees are proportionately lower. So prices are often 20% to 30% lower (or more). Since I started buying on AliExpress I have seldom found what I was looking for at lower prices anywhere else.
RE: the drone market... it's quite strong in the UK and western Europe. Eastern Europe has a firm market as well. Australia and NZ also have very active drone communities as well. Little to no regulation helps strengthen the non-US market as well. I wish I had been involved in this hobby when it first started to emerge in the US and was completely unregulated.
@ruouttaurmind good background and makes complete sense. I'm apprehensive about wares from China due to heavy counterfeiting, and the shipping time leaves little to desire. Anyhow, I'm going to pick this up, though by the time it gets to me in NY, it'll be winter :) snowflake aerial shots!
@sportykev Due to the complexity of the gimbal manufacture and assembly, and the (relatively) modest market size, I would say it's unlikely you'll find a counterfeit Walkera gimbal. It's not like popping out fake Ray Ban Wayfarers or Coach purses, innit.
@ruouttaurmind Hmm I suppose! Ordering!
So, canceled my order on AliExpress. Ordered from eBay vendor instead for $7.10 more. But I'll get it in 3-4 days instead of 30-40 days. LOL SO WORTH IT MAN. money today > money tomorrow!
@sportykev 3 to 4 days is well worth seven bucks. I'm with you on that one.
FWIW, the longest I've waited for anything from an AliExpress seller is just over 2 weeks. In fact, my first AliExpress order arrived in four days. Of course that's no guarantee that one day I'll be sitting there waiting the full 40 days for something. That's happened on eBay in the past when ordering from Chinese sellers. And my first order from Banggood took every second of 59 days. After that I was surprised I ever placed another order with them. LOL!
@ruouttaurmind It's all in the timing I suppose, if you get your order in time to make that boat!
Oh my... "Delivered, Front Door/Porch". Must. Get. home. Now!
@sportykev Your G-3D? Sweet!!
@ruouttaurmind Yup, trying to install now. Looks pretty straight forward. Shorter power cable with the Walkera, but I think I'll tape into the aux power cables in that little hole. Assume red is power and grey is ground?
How did I even miss this review! Thanks for the update!
@garyhgaryh Gary, check out the update here.
Craptastic, G-3D doesn't come with the right mount for the fuselage LOL
@sportykev If you haven't sorted it yet, I'll dig out my P1 and see if I can come up with a simple, elegant solution for you. As I recall, when I put the G2 on the Phantom, I only used one mounting screw. But I also tied the gimbal assembly to the landing gear with some dental floss on two corners... just in case that screw worked loose.
FWIW, dental floss is amazingly strong and very, very lightweight. It's my preferred method of tying off cables and the like. A double knot of dental floss weighs about 1% of a nylon zipper tie and 75% less than kite string.
@ruouttaurmind seems like a usable solution, with the dental floss! I also just noticed that... I need longer landing gear!! this Walkera is HUNG LOW! (haha...)
@sportykev Ya, that extra third motor drops it down a couple more cm.
I forgot you've got the G3... with the quick rail mount. Since the rail will be permanently mounted to the P1, I would...
@ruouttaurmind yea great idea. I don't feel comfortable with just one screw. The G-3D is significantly heavier than the china 2D jammies. Wires are all over the place I need to tidy up. I won't be flying this until I get taller landing gear, otherwise, the quality is very nice, and it was relatively painless to get it going and lined up nicely. I just need to work on the pitch angles and I should be good to go. Any recommendation on landing gear?
@sportykev Do you have a 3D printer? Or a buddy with one?
These spacers go between the stock gear and the fuselage. SO easy, and you can make them as tall or short as you need.
@ruouttaurmind no buddies with a 3D printer :( Guess I'll check eBay/Amazon for CF pair.