@alose That seems to just be for the keypad. The lock is curiously missing from Amazon, so can’t check its price, but it’s available in a package with a camera for $75:
@alose@ShotgunX
If you google Bosma Aegis Smart Door Lock
You’ll see there was a listing for $149.98 on Amazon
When you click it takes you to the same link Meh posted.
@alose This requires a little extra work. Scroll down a little further after the price. Next to the keypad button is the lock button. Click on that, $77.66 shows up. $107.65 total. Keypad and lock are listed separately. A little less than meh’s Amazon price.
@meponder I lost a lot of respect for him when he started selling his disk detainer lock picking tool to anyone. I bet bike thefts took a jump after that. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised. He’s supposedly a lawyer.
@meponder@tweezak Nah, those things are mainly for legitimate use or actual lockpicking fans, and require some know-how to use. There isn’t a lock out there that can withstand 30 seconds of a Dewalt (even Ryobi) cordless angle grinder, even with zero skill or experience of the user. Once those hit the market is when bike theft really became anyone’s game. Plus, countless social experiment videos show that nowadays people don’t bat an eye at thieves doing their thing, be it with power tools, bolt cutters, or even portable generators powering the power tools. Best bet is to ride a rusty piece of junk if in a bike theft area.
@jester747@meponder There was one shackle lock designed to defeat angle grinders. He featured it once. The shackle was a standard shackle but it had over 2” of aluminum covering the entire thing. The idea was that you left the lock on the rack all the time. The aluminum would fill up multiple wheels and the 2” thickness made 4” grinders useless. It had to be picked.
@meponder@tweezak There are a few angle-grinder resistant locks out there (ones I’ve seen use layers of fancy steel and graphene; aluminum can be cut like butter). They typically cost $300-400 and weigh upwards of four pounds. They are very very impressive… taking almost two whole minutes to be cut through by an angle grinder. Ruining a disc or three in the process. Here’s the thing though, at that tier it becomes almost impossible to find something to lock the bike to that isn’t itself extremely easy to cut through, and if the object justifies such an expensive lock, cutting through the hollow tubing of a typical city bike rack becomes more and more “worth the effort”. I once had a nice but not too special Fuji (worth maybe 500 bucks if it were brand new) taken from a stop sign by the thief cutting the pole, and all I had was an OK-ish u-lock. In summary, something very valuable should not be left unattended regardless of what lock is used. That’s why I suggest to just ride a beater with a decent enough lock to not make the effort worth a thief’s time compared to the next bike and if (when) it gets stolen anyway you just go get another one without having lost too much.
@jester747@meponder@tweezak And no matter how beat the bike looks, strip the maker decals from it unless they say Huffy, Ozone, Roadmaster, or something equally well-known as being utter crap. Even Schwinn is still good enough for a newb thief to think worth stealing. I know someone here in Houston whose CDale has been locked in public places almost daily, but left alone because he acquired some Huffy stickers for it, and added some structural-looking duct tape to it in a couple of spots. But without a steal-something-else lock, even a Huffy will evaporate in seconds.
@jester747@meponder The purpose of the aluminum (2" radius) was not to be cut resistant but to fill up wheels forcing replacement and that you couldn’t even reach the steel core with a 4" wheel. Pretty clever, actually.
I just watched it again and I’d forgotten he had to build a special tool for the core on this lock because the only ones available are hand made by a guy in Europe.
@jester747@meponder@werehatrack Spray paint is a good theft deterrent too. A real crap job with matte paint that covers the aluminum parts and stuff too. People may think you stole it though.
@ohhwell@rhildebr But it interfaces through WiFi instead of having a relay in the keypad complete the circuit which powers up the drive motor.
The LPL has defeated the latter type by shorting out
the wires to bypass the relay. This one avoids that physical vulnerability, but adds some unknown hacking risk.
And, as you point out, this is only as secure as your existing lock. The LPL would probably be in by the time you’ve read this far…
@ohhwell@rhildebr@rpstrong I was recently reading about burglars jamming Wi-Fi and defeating alarm systems. This can’t be far behind. Linking to your phone via Bluetooth is much more secure. I work on things of this nature for my job.
I’ve had one of these for a year or so. It works fine. I don’t use the automatic lock/unlock detection from my cell phone. I do use fingerprint and key code functions. It also works fine with the deadbolt keys. I have it connected to Alexia for locking, but not for unlocking. The cell phone app warns when batteries are getting low and that is useful. I seem to get about four months from the motor batteries using it many times a day as folks go in and out. I’ve yet to change the keypad batteries. Installation is not quite as easy as the propaganda would suggest. It depends on your deadbolt. Mine was a contractor special that came with the house and was old and sloppy. I replaced it with a deadbolt from Consumer Report’s recommended list. That required a bit of fitting work with both the lock face and the jam plate.
No local API on the bridge, meaning once the cloud goes down, most of the functionality vanishes. No telling if you could even change door codes. I have no idea what Bosma’s financial health is to guess at that.
As long as you accept the possibility it could become abandonware, this is a really cheap way to see if you like smart locks.
What is happening here?? Are we to believe this handyman had previously struck his thumb with a hammer? Or (more likely) that BOSMA could not afford a proper hand model and just went with Gary from the mailroom.
So… I was actually thinking about pulling the trigger until I read this:
“To lock and unlock the door manually, just turn the whole lock to the right or left depending on the orientation of your deadbolt”
Kind of defeats the purpose of a deadbolt as anyone can smash one of the small panes next to door, reach in and unlock the door. It’s why I’ve passed on other smart locks before.
@rpstrong in my case, they’re not big enough to fit a whole body through. But by and large I agree. I don’t like the windows there.
Not the house doesn’t have plenty of windows a body could fit through… But louder and more conspicuous to break one of those… There again, no neighbours near enough to see/hear if someone broke a downstairs window.
@WilhelmScreamer A potential vulnerability, but to me, ‘point of failure’ would mean a scenario where the lock wouldn’t function. In this case, any failure of the lock could kill the ‘smart’ functions, but both the key and the twist button would function normally.
My security deadbolt: it’s rusted shut. (Yeah I’m years behind disassembling and applying CLR to it.)
To get into the house inconspicuously, you have to jump up to the unlocked 2nd floor rear window from the tress.
Until I get too old and/or out of shape to do that, I think it’s a decent deterrent. (No, WD40 is not going into my lock.)
This is not yet showing as shipped yet, but expected delivery was Jan 2nd-Jan5th.
I got notification that FedEx will be making a delivery tomorrow (5th) and Meh is just about the only company that sends me anything via FedEx… I’m assuming this is what is arriving tomorrow and the database just didn’t get updated to mark as passed on to shippers?
Anyone ever receive anything from Meh before it officially is marked as “shipped”?
Received and installed mine today. Hardware installation was easy enough. Bluetooth/Wifi/Network setup was a royal pain!
Once I installed the app, I downloaded the app, signed up for an account, and added the device. It immediately requested a firmware update — Then claimed it couldn’t connect via Bluetooth causing firmware update to fail (How did it know I needed a firmware update then?)
Even more perplexing, that failure effectively caused the app to lock up, so I force closed it, and reopened it. It skipped the firmware update request and went straight to calibration. That went perfectly smoothly, moreover the lock worked fine through the app, manually turning it, or pressing on the front of it.
So the next step per the instructions was to plug in the WiFi gateway and enter pairing mode. Got the flashing blue light on the gateway, but no flashing green light on the lock. Turned out to be user error as I assumed it was a good idea to replace the thin black foam between the battery compartment and the magnetic cover/button – but this covered up the light I was supposed to look for.
Once removed, it still took a couple more goes for it to recognize the gateway, then it wanted to connect to my WiFi network (2.4Ghz only) select my SSID, enter the password, wait a couple minutes, fail. Try several times. Cuss, sit down for a bit on the other end of the house to email support.
For shits and grins, I tried the firmware update again about 50’ away from the lock instead of the (within 15’ the instructions indicated) firmware downloads and installs with no problem. Still not connecting to my network though.
Unplugged the WiFi Extender near the front door where the lock was installed. Still won’t connect to my network. Close and reopen the app again, and finally it connects and everything seems to be functional at last, even after replacing the extender.
Anyway, it’s very finicky, or at least was for me, but it’s now integrated with Google Assistant and the timing is great as I’m currently in a loaner vehicle from the dealership, so don’t have my Homelink button to open my garage door to enter the house for the time being. (I hate digging out physical keys)
Fingers crossed that it will work reliably and thankfully the physical key will always work. Let’s just hope it doesn’t decide to spontaneously unlock my front door though.
Specs
Product: Bosma Aegis Smart Door Lock & Wireless Bluetooth Fingerprint Keypad Bundle
Condition: New
Bosma Aegis Smart Door Lock
Model: AEGIS-DL
Bosma Wireless Bluetooth Fingerprint Keypad
Model: AEGIS-KEYPAD
What’s Included?
Price Comparison
$149.98 at Amazon
Warranty
1 Year Warranty
Estimated Delivery
Tuesday, Jan 2 - Thursday, Jan 4
my dyslexia kicked in and I read BDSMA.
pass.
@alacrity I’ll take one.
@ShotgunX it sounds like bondage with asthma
@alacrity @ShotgunX if you don’t get an asthma attack with bondage, you’re doing it wrong.
BOSMA NUTS
@CraigDanger For that, you need one of the Ballsy shavers
Not sure if Amazon is doing their price war BS, but it is currently $30 today.
@alose That seems to just be for the keypad. The lock is curiously missing from Amazon, so can’t check its price, but it’s available in a package with a camera for $75:
https://www.amazon.com/BOSMA-Doorbell-Auto-Unlock-Auto-Lock-Compatible/dp/B08ZQ5Q1FS
@alose @ShotgunX
If you google Bosma Aegis Smart Door Lock
You’ll see there was a listing for $149.98 on Amazon
When you click it takes you to the same link Meh posted.
@alose This requires a little extra work. Scroll down a little further after the price. Next to the keypad button is the lock button. Click on that, $77.66 shows up. $107.65 total. Keypad and lock are listed separately. A little less than meh’s Amazon price.
I read the company name as Bosnian and had thought they were selling “the pick I invented with Bosnian Bill.”
@meponder I understood that reference
@meponder I lost a lot of respect for him when he started selling his disk detainer lock picking tool to anyone. I bet bike thefts took a jump after that. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised. He’s supposedly a lawyer.
@meponder @tweezak Nah, those things are mainly for legitimate use or actual lockpicking fans, and require some know-how to use. There isn’t a lock out there that can withstand 30 seconds of a Dewalt (even Ryobi) cordless angle grinder, even with zero skill or experience of the user. Once those hit the market is when bike theft really became anyone’s game. Plus, countless social experiment videos show that nowadays people don’t bat an eye at thieves doing their thing, be it with power tools, bolt cutters, or even portable generators powering the power tools. Best bet is to ride a rusty piece of junk if in a bike theft area.
@meponder @tweezak He was a corporate litigator - just another shark in the tank. But he retired in order to focus on his YouTubing.
@jester747 @meponder There was one shackle lock designed to defeat angle grinders. He featured it once. The shackle was a standard shackle but it had over 2” of aluminum covering the entire thing. The idea was that you left the lock on the rack all the time. The aluminum would fill up multiple wheels and the 2” thickness made 4” grinders useless. It had to be picked.
@meponder @tweezak There are a few angle-grinder resistant locks out there (ones I’ve seen use layers of fancy steel and graphene; aluminum can be cut like butter). They typically cost $300-400 and weigh upwards of four pounds. They are very very impressive… taking almost two whole minutes to be cut through by an angle grinder. Ruining a disc or three in the process. Here’s the thing though, at that tier it becomes almost impossible to find something to lock the bike to that isn’t itself extremely easy to cut through, and if the object justifies such an expensive lock, cutting through the hollow tubing of a typical city bike rack becomes more and more “worth the effort”. I once had a nice but not too special Fuji (worth maybe 500 bucks if it were brand new) taken from a stop sign by the thief cutting the pole, and all I had was an OK-ish u-lock. In summary, something very valuable should not be left unattended regardless of what lock is used. That’s why I suggest to just ride a beater with a decent enough lock to not make the effort worth a thief’s time compared to the next bike and if (when) it gets stolen anyway you just go get another one without having lost too much.
@jester747 @meponder @tweezak And no matter how beat the bike looks, strip the maker decals from it unless they say Huffy, Ozone, Roadmaster, or something equally well-known as being utter crap. Even Schwinn is still good enough for a newb thief to think worth stealing. I know someone here in Houston whose CDale has been locked in public places almost daily, but left alone because he acquired some Huffy stickers for it, and added some structural-looking duct tape to it in a couple of spots. But without a steal-something-else lock, even a Huffy will evaporate in seconds.
@jester747 @meponder The purpose of the aluminum (2" radius) was not to be cut resistant but to fill up wheels forcing replacement and that you couldn’t even reach the steel core with a 4" wheel. Pretty clever, actually.
I just watched it again and I’d forgotten he had to build a special tool for the core on this lock because the only ones available are hand made by a guy in Europe.
@jester747 @meponder @werehatrack Spray paint is a good theft deterrent too. A real crap job with matte paint that covers the aluminum parts and stuff too. People may think you stole it though.
@tweezak
This is the reason for the 7 1/4" circular saw with an abrasive wheel blade.
@meponder @tweezak @werehatrack Love that! Huffy stickers on a nicer bike is genius!
Can’t wait to come home and find my entry keypad has been stolen, woo
Did Lock-Picking Lawyer actually write that flavor text?
@kensey I just googled “flavor text” and this is a term I like very much.
Knock Knock Knock Knocking on Bosma’s Door
I look forward to the LPL video defeating this lock
@rhildebr Well, it uses your existing deadbolt lock so…
@ohhwell @rhildebr But it interfaces through WiFi instead of having a relay in the keypad complete the circuit which powers up the drive motor.
The LPL has defeated the latter type by shorting out
the wires to bypass the relay. This one avoids that physical vulnerability, but adds some unknown hacking risk.
And, as you point out, this is only as secure as your existing lock. The LPL would probably be in by the time you’ve read this far…
@ohhwell @rhildebr @rpstrong I was recently reading about burglars jamming Wi-Fi and defeating alarm systems. This can’t be far behind. Linking to your phone via Bluetooth is much more secure. I work on things of this nature for my job.
How does this work if you don’t have wireless fingerprints?
@werehatrack Sheesh, do you still have wired fingerprints? That’s soooo 20th century.
@khearn @werehatrack …Or blue teeth, for that matter?
@ircon96 @khearn @werehatrack my teeth are yellow, too much coffee, am I incompatible with this lock?
Of course this isn’t a Fluke. They make electrical test equipment, not door locks. It’s good stuff, and I would be astonished to see any of it here.
@werehatrack
Yep. Was hoping to see a deal on an off-brand DMM. Bonus points if it was yellow.
Disappointed.
@werehatrack I love my Klein, and it’s not a Fluke.
TO BE FAIR Fluke has done a good job on the repairs for my techs when I’ve had to send in their equipment. I’ve just never had to send in a Klein.
I’ve had one of these for a year or so. It works fine. I don’t use the automatic lock/unlock detection from my cell phone. I do use fingerprint and key code functions. It also works fine with the deadbolt keys. I have it connected to Alexia for locking, but not for unlocking. The cell phone app warns when batteries are getting low and that is useful. I seem to get about four months from the motor batteries using it many times a day as folks go in and out. I’ve yet to change the keypad batteries. Installation is not quite as easy as the propaganda would suggest. It depends on your deadbolt. Mine was a contractor special that came with the house and was old and sloppy. I replaced it with a deadbolt from Consumer Report’s recommended list. That required a bit of fitting work with both the lock face and the jam plate.
No local API on the bridge, meaning once the cloud goes down, most of the functionality vanishes. No telling if you could even change door codes. I have no idea what Bosma’s financial health is to guess at that.
As long as you accept the possibility it could become abandonware, this is a really cheap way to see if you like smart locks.
As a long time LPL viewer, I appreciate the effort.
I have come to the conclusion that it is not smart to buy any product that has “smart” in the name.
One of the best product descriptions ever
LPL for the win 
What is happening here?? Are we to believe this handyman had previously struck his thumb with a hammer? Or (more likely) that BOSMA could not afford a proper hand model and just went with Gary from the mailroom.
@shanesny Homie hit their other thumb with the same hammer it too.
I can’t imagine wanting to trust bluetooth to be secure enough to keep your front door locked.
@TwiNaga I live out in the country… If someone is going to break into my house they would smash a window rather than hack the Bluetooth.
No door lock will stop a determined thief, they’re about stopping crimes of convenience.
@TwiNaga FWIW, Tesla vehicle owners rely on bluetooth to secure their vehicles.
@TwiNaga Both Bluetooth (to the hub) and WiFi (to your router),
Within 6 months we’ll see a surge of posts here from everyone who has been locked out from their home. I wouldn’t trust this on a chicken coop.
I’m in. (And luckily I don’t have a chicken coop.)
Have had an August for the past 8 years and it’s started grinding. Bluetooth sends the signal, but the August says,“Nope.”
How long will this last? Who knows? But in the meantime, my door will open.
So… I was actually thinking about pulling the trigger until I read this:
“To lock and unlock the door manually, just turn the whole lock to the right or left depending on the orientation of your deadbolt”
Kind of defeats the purpose of a deadbolt as anyone can smash one of the small panes next to door, reach in and unlock the door. It’s why I’ve passed on other smart locks before.
@OnionSoup what’s to stop someone from doing the same on a normal deadbolt?
@brasknote there’s a keyhole on the other side so it requires a key to lock/unlock from inside.
@OnionSoup Sounds to me like having windows next to the door defeats the purpose of the door.
@rpstrong in my case, they’re not big enough to fit a whole body through. But by and large I agree. I don’t like the windows there.
Not the house doesn’t have plenty of windows a body could fit through… But louder and more conspicuous to break one of those… There again, no neighbours near enough to see/hear if someone broke a downstairs window.
@OnionSoup @rpstrong The window allows the would-be burglar to see the Doberman waiting on the other side of the door.
@macromeh @rpstrong at my house they would know from the barking.
People 1 mile away would know from the barking.
Not a fan of adding an additional point of failure to security
@WilhelmScreamer A potential vulnerability, but to me, ‘point of failure’ would mean a scenario where the lock wouldn’t function. In this case, any failure of the lock could kill the ‘smart’ functions, but both the key and the twist button would function normally.
Email said
Too bad. They make good meters and I would have a good use for one, if there were a deal.
Ah screw it… Despite my misgivings I went ahead and ordered one anyway. I think the auto lock and door ajar notifications outweigh my reluctances.
Ok…y’all convinced me to give this one a shot. Gotta burn that coupon anyway!
/buy -c 5FORYOUDEC2023
@PHRoG It worked! Your order number is: crimson-polar-coal
/image crimson polar coal
@mediocrebot
/giphy crimson-polar-coal
@PHRoG crap. Forgot I had a coupon.
My security deadbolt: it’s rusted shut. (Yeah I’m years behind disassembling and applying CLR to it.)
To get into the house inconspicuously, you have to jump up to the unlocked 2nd floor rear window from the tress.
Until I get too old and/or out of shape to do that, I think it’s a decent deterrent. (No, WD40 is not going into my lock.)
@pakopako please don’t die in a fire.
This is not yet showing as shipped yet, but expected delivery was Jan 2nd-Jan5th.
I got notification that FedEx will be making a delivery tomorrow (5th) and Meh is just about the only company that sends me anything via FedEx… I’m assuming this is what is arriving tomorrow and the database just didn’t get updated to mark as passed on to shippers?
Anyone ever receive anything from Meh before it officially is marked as “shipped”?
@OnionSoup It has happened, yes. In my personal case, the package has arrived before the tracking number was provided more than once.
Received and installed mine today. Hardware installation was easy enough. Bluetooth/Wifi/Network setup was a royal pain!
Once I installed the app, I downloaded the app, signed up for an account, and added the device. It immediately requested a firmware update — Then claimed it couldn’t connect via Bluetooth causing firmware update to fail (How did it know I needed a firmware update then?)
Even more perplexing, that failure effectively caused the app to lock up, so I force closed it, and reopened it. It skipped the firmware update request and went straight to calibration. That went perfectly smoothly, moreover the lock worked fine through the app, manually turning it, or pressing on the front of it.
So the next step per the instructions was to plug in the WiFi gateway and enter pairing mode. Got the flashing blue light on the gateway, but no flashing green light on the lock. Turned out to be user error as I assumed it was a good idea to replace the thin black foam between the battery compartment and the magnetic cover/button – but this covered up the light I was supposed to look for.
Once removed, it still took a couple more goes for it to recognize the gateway, then it wanted to connect to my WiFi network (2.4Ghz only) select my SSID, enter the password, wait a couple minutes, fail. Try several times. Cuss, sit down for a bit on the other end of the house to email support.
For shits and grins, I tried the firmware update again about 50’ away from the lock instead of the (within 15’ the instructions indicated) firmware downloads and installs with no problem. Still not connecting to my network though.
Unplugged the WiFi Extender near the front door where the lock was installed. Still won’t connect to my network. Close and reopen the app again, and finally it connects and everything seems to be functional at last, even after replacing the extender.
Anyway, it’s very finicky, or at least was for me, but it’s now integrated with Google Assistant and the timing is great as I’m currently in a loaner vehicle from the dealership, so don’t have my Homelink button to open my garage door to enter the house for the time being. (I hate digging out physical keys)
Fingers crossed that it will work reliably and thankfully the physical key will always work. Let’s just hope it doesn’t decide to spontaneously unlock my front door though.