Ryobi 1/2"-drive brushless HP cordless impact wrench; the lug nut can come off with or without breaking the stud, but it will be coming off. (Ima lookin’ at you, stainless-steel-clad factory lugs on way too many Chrysler and Ford products.) (We hates them, Precious, yess! Tricksy and devious, looks all pretty down in their holeses in the wheel, but they wants to bulge and slip and never come free! But we know how to defeat them, oh yes! We hammers the socket on, the one with big sharp teeth, and use the long handle or the fierce impact beast!)
@werehatrack I was amazed how the function of the cordless electric impacts can put out more usable torque than pneumatic impacts in most cases because of their shorter hammer throw or more frequent but smaller impacts as part of their design (because electric components and battery necessity versus high volume air ones). Makes the use of torque sticks almost useless for all but the oldest and nearly worn out models. The TTC on YouTube has a lot of cool content.
@werehatrack@GetClosure I have a trailer that is made from the frame/bed/axle of an old junked pickup. I use it behind my tractor for various hauling chores. The tires are shot and I have been struggling with the lug nuts to get the wheels off for installation of new tires. I’ve tried pretty much every lube/rust dissolver available. The impact wrench (pneumatic or electric) does nothing. I tried heating the lug nuts with a torch and whacking them with a hammer to break them loose. I tried handle extensions on the wrench, to the point that the wheel studs just turned in the hub. I guess the next step is the “hot wrench” (i.e., cutting torch) and then just replace the studs with new ones. PITA
@macromeh Personally, that’s kind of what I’d go with. Project Farm also does a good comparo of penetration oils if you’re still on that step but I’ve always had a hard time with extractions in confined spaces. Fixes and ideas for removal can run the gamut and there’s no one right answer, just shades of right practices for the situation/materials at hand. We always had access to really heavy-duty 1/2" pneumatics and damn the studs/lugs; those were cheap as long as the wheel was in okay shape. Same with hubs. Smoke em if ya got em so to speak.
@GetClosure@macromeh I’d get out the die grinder and groove one side of the nut down to the threads, and then give what’s left of the shoulder a whack with a chisel to split it. I had to do that for a neighbor after he swapped a new hub onto his boat trailer and forgot to coat the threads on the studs with anti-sieze. Solidly rusted things like that are a real pain. I’ll be dealing with one tomorrow; my ancient Troy-Bilt tiller had a flat when I bought it, and now the tire won’t hold air long enough to get ten feet down the row. But the wheel is rusted solid on the shaft, and the tire is damn near impossible to pry off with levers, so I get to Be Creative.
@macromeh If you have the space, cutting a perpendicular slot through the nut (and stud) with an angle grinder to split it can do the trick too. Less risk to the hub, although if the stud is spinning, I wonder if it’s damaged already.
@narfcake@werehatrack I thought about going that route, but there are 6 lugs per wheel ( x2 wheels) and it seems kind of tedious vs. just blasting them off with the torch. I’m not too worried about minor damage to the hub, since the trailer is only used on my property and at slow (tractor) speeds.
@macromeh@narfcake Yep, torch 'em, and JBWeld the replacement studs in place if the hole has been reamed out past an oversize by the old one spinning. Like you said; low speeds, off-road, farm use; no worries.
@werehatrack are you using the high torque? The Ryobi and the rigid did very well on TTC. However a lot of people keep saying the high torque are overkill and too heavy why would you ever need them blah blah get the mid torque because it’s half a pound lighter? They must live south of the rust belt…
This is beyond stupid to me. If I can fit it in I want that nut/bolt off. Why buy a mid-torque… Unless it was subcompact.
My 10 year old craftsman C3 only rated 250-300 LB-Ft and thats plenty for lug nuts. I need a reason to upgrade.
I want it too break loose that 20 year old rusted trailing arm/stabilizer/sway bar. The last hell was trailing arms with bolts frozen in the bushings.
You try and just wrench it off and the worn out rubber breaks and it spins in place. Put wrench on the back braced to the frame and work on the other. Nothing. This is where you want it to work or snap the bolt.
Otherwise you have to burn off the rubber with a torch, to get to the bushing with grinder wheel to cut to the bolt, to cut the bolt with a hacksaw…
@unksol Yep, it’s the big brushless high-torque. It might have a smidge less in the beans category than their favorite Milwaukee, but that’s like comparing TNT and C4 for stump removal. The job is going to get done.
@werehatrack mmm… I wonder if it would help with frozen bushings. Since the only way to stabilize them is with a wrench on the back against something. I would guess you might lose a little bit of torque but it’s probably so fast it would maintain the tension.
I assume you find it was not to heavy or large? Those complaints seemed… Dumb. I get the cost issue but there were a few hacks this year for both high torques
@unksol It’s a bit heavier than the middie and the original, but not all that much heavier than the ancient CP734 units I’ve been using for 45 years. I guess it’s all in your perspective. It’s definitely longer than my old air guns, so there are places that it won’t fit, but the convenience of not needing to drag 75 feet of air hose out to the driveway has a lot of value. And the HP has zipped the front axle nuts off of the FWD vehicles without any trouble at all, where the long air line and my 140-psi-max compressor has made the old air guns a bit anemic at times.
@GetClosure@narfcake Many Ford engines (and some others) have had twelve-point heads on a lot of the fasteners. Some of them were those finicky torque-to-yield bolts for the cylinder heads.
@GetClosure@werehatrack And then, there’s stuff like XZN bolts, which are a 12-point triple square. It’s probably the least concern when it comes to the vehicles they’re used on, though.
Step 1: remove the front end.
/image Audi service position
@werehatrack Honda LOVES to put in 12-pt 10mm head bolts in for internal engine parts like conrod and case bolts where torque and bolt elongation is a careful spec. Basically, if it’s loadbearing and one-time use, it needs the one socket that goes walkabout.
It’s the common trope that it’s always the 10mm 12-pt socket that goes missing. I swear, I must have put a few kids through college on getting just the singles off the Snap-On truck from work alone. lol
In that Hazard Fraught set, they just don’t even bother.
BTW, when you buy a set of Hooboy Frack impecker sockets, instead of cussing a blue streak while trying to get 'em off that plastic rack, just take a 3/16" drill bit and counterbore the holes in the sides of the sockets to take off the little plastic prong that’s keeping them in place. Big savings of invective that you may need later!
@werehatrack Thanks for the valuable consumer advice from the pain we’ve all felt before! All the bent-backwards thumbnails, all the chipped teeth … We suffer so nobody else HAS to.
@narfcake Is that the 1.8T? I have one of those in my old B6 (I think that’s the generation anyway) Passat Wagon because it’s relatively tech friendly! No transverse i4 here!
@GetClosure The one from the /image looks like an A4 B6 1.8T.
Passat B5 (1998-2005) is longitudinal but B6 (2006-2010) went transverse before the platforms split to the B7 (Global) and NMS (North America, China, and Middle East).
@werehatrack Handy vid indeed! They put those sockets on to survive a hard life on the shelves, that’s for sure! Maybe the reason the Snap-On stuff is so pricey is because they do that for you before you buy.
@narfcake Yeah, then I have that last year of the transverse 2005. It was the odd duck GL that was only FWD so there is a ton of space in the engine bay since they went with the whole Audi enchilada and crowbarred the whole A4 AWD drive train in there. Bought it cheap but already had to replace a cam chain tensioner on it and the heater core is inop. Old adage holds true that there’s nothing more expensive than a cheap German car.
Old adage holds true that there’s nothing more expensive than a cheap German car.
@GetClosure If it’s not the parts prices, it’s the labor to get to the said part – plus the occasional randomness of stuff that shouldn’t fail at its age but does anyway. Like a sensor. Except it’s an intermittent failure so it’s not easily diagnosed.
(And then some have their flaws from the very onset; overhauling the cooling system should be considered scheduled maintenance on many BMWs.)
@GetClosure@narfcake With VW, it’s the parts prices as well. Back in early '84, when I was the parts manager for a VW dealer, we got a request for the price of the complete set of factory seat covers for an '83 Scirocco. It was $150 less than the price of the car. We still had one of the vehicles in stock; when the insurance adjuster called back to get the numbers, I told him that our new car sales manager would happily cut him a deal to sell them a whole vehicle for the price of those covers. The insurance company decided to have custom ones made locally instead. Daimler and BMW are both less outrageously rapacious with their parts pricing than VW.
Favorite thing: Walking.
Favorite TV Show: Mandalorian.
Favorite meal: Way too much osso buco with roasted garlic and brie polenta. Boy, the house smelled good that day.
Favorite Movie: Monty Python’s Holy Grail. That’s never going to change.
Favorite Purchase: IWI Zion-15 pew pew. It’s pretty awesome
That is Amtrak train 91, the southbound Silver Star, approaching the Orlando station! I timed the shot just right, and I wanted this location because of the very appropriate graffiti, heh.
@Kyeh Okay so, I have named my individual inflatable Loba, the feminine version of Lobo (wolf), but the actual product run (the given name of the inflatable toy) is Dusty Shepherd. That’s why I chose that photo location!
(If you’re on a mobile device, tapping and holding on the image should bring up a dialog box containing additional text. I think the same thing happens on a PC if you right-click on the image.)
@PooltoyWolf Thanks for the explanation. I think my iPhone S7 isn’t new enough for that because nothing comes up when I tap and hold except a query about whether I want to share, add to photos, or copy the image.
And now I agree, very apropriate setting!
@Kyeh@werehatrack Very strange. I’m on a Samsung Galaxy S9+ at this very moment using Google Chrome and it pops up just fine for me! Also worked using same settings on my previous devices. (S8+, S7 Active, S5)
@PooltoyWolf Oh, right - I have the iPhone 7 Plus, sorry. I know I don’t have what newer ones have, with the photo identification thing; I send pictures of plants to my friend who has the iPhone 14 and she can identify them just by pressing on the pictures.
@Kyeh@PooltoyWolf
Oh wow I LOVE that Google lens feature! I use it all the time, almost daily!
PooltoyWolf, WHY almost 3 years waiting time to get Dusty/Loba? THAT seems ridiculously long, is that the normal gestation time for blow-ups?
@Kyeh@Lynnerizer Absolutely not! Unfortunately, there was a horrible combination of a devastating house fire for the company owner (Paradise, CA fire), COVID-19, and operational changes and hiccups at the factory…all combining to produce a 35-month wait time.
Depending on the company and specific project, the average wait time from project conception to inflatables in hands is between 9-18 months. COVID has significantly lengthened that time lately, due to slowdowns caused primarily by factory shutdowns and material shortages.
@Kyeh@PooltoyWolf It’s the Meh app. It’s a Thing. Apps. All the big, important places have 'em. Some of them are possible to use without endangering your sanity.
OBTW, in the app, there’s no row of icons for Bold and Italics and Photo and such.
@Kyeh@PooltoyWolf@werehatrack that is my big complaint. Charlie uses the app while I use chrome so he doesnt have to log in/out all the time (no thumbs and all, hard for a doggo to type) and he cannot post pics
@PooltoyWolf since I have your attention (off topic here)… saw this - might be a costume they dragged up that mountain looking at the feet, but maybe not (part of an article I read). If it is a costume maybe you should buy one so you can look like your buddies. And scare some onlookers when suddently you “come alive”.
@Kidsandliz@PooltoyWolf I see those wandering around anime and comic cons all the time, along with several others. At DragonCon this past year, there was a guy in full Indiana Jones being followed around by the giant stone ball from the early part of the first movie, apparently being cosplayed by his daughter. The stone appeared to have been a custom-made inflatable. It was very well done.
In 2022 reality TV is still my go to for boob box entertainment and my favorite food is still syrian meat pies. The best ones (when I can’t make them myself) are from Sam’s bakery in Fall River, Massachusetts.
But my BEST purchase/gift of 2022 was my new SUV from my dad. There hasn’t been a single time that I’ve gotten behind the wheel and didn’t say (either out loud or to myself) how much I LOVE my car! As it turned out that’s also the last physical gift my dad was able to give me. Sadly, he passed away just 5 months later.
My favorite TV show was The Bear.
Favorite purchase: Drop + OLKB Preonic Keyboard MX V3. Part of the Ortholinear gang now.
@GetClosure oh that is lovely
@tinamarie1974 It’s so little!
@GetClosure I’m very curious what it’s like typing on keys aligned like that. Is it weird, or do you get used to it quickly?
(I also don’t recognize the thing to the left; that’s not part of the bundle, is it?)
@GetClosure @xobzoo it is just made like an old keyboard, I bet it is click-y too!!!
Ryobi 1/2"-drive brushless HP cordless impact wrench; the lug nut can come off with or without breaking the stud, but it will be coming off. (Ima lookin’ at you, stainless-steel-clad factory lugs on way too many Chrysler and Ford products.) (We hates them, Precious, yess! Tricksy and devious, looks all pretty down in their holeses in the wheel, but they wants to bulge and slip and never come free! But we know how to defeat them, oh yes! We hammers the socket on, the one with big sharp teeth, and use the long handle or the fierce impact beast!)
@werehatrack I was amazed how the function of the cordless electric impacts can put out more usable torque than pneumatic impacts in most cases because of their shorter hammer throw or more frequent but smaller impacts as part of their design (because electric components and battery necessity versus high volume air ones). Makes the use of torque sticks almost useless for all but the oldest and nearly worn out models. The TTC on YouTube has a lot of cool content.
@werehatrack @GetClosure I have a trailer that is made from the frame/bed/axle of an old junked pickup. I use it behind my tractor for various hauling chores. The tires are shot and I have been struggling with the lug nuts to get the wheels off for installation of new tires. I’ve tried pretty much every lube/rust dissolver available. The impact wrench (pneumatic or electric) does nothing. I tried heating the lug nuts with a torch and whacking them with a hammer to break them loose. I tried handle extensions on the wrench, to the point that the wheel studs just turned in the hub. I guess the next step is the “hot wrench” (i.e., cutting torch) and then just replace the studs with new ones. PITA
@macromeh Personally, that’s kind of what I’d go with. Project Farm also does a good comparo of penetration oils if you’re still on that step but I’ve always had a hard time with extractions in confined spaces. Fixes and ideas for removal can run the gamut and there’s no one right answer, just shades of right practices for the situation/materials at hand. We always had access to really heavy-duty 1/2" pneumatics and damn the studs/lugs; those were cheap as long as the wheel was in okay shape. Same with hubs. Smoke em if ya got em so to speak.
@GetClosure @macromeh I’d get out the die grinder and groove one side of the nut down to the threads, and then give what’s left of the shoulder a whack with a chisel to split it. I had to do that for a neighbor after he swapped a new hub onto his boat trailer and forgot to coat the threads on the studs with anti-sieze. Solidly rusted things like that are a real pain. I’ll be dealing with one tomorrow; my ancient Troy-Bilt tiller had a flat when I bought it, and now the tire won’t hold air long enough to get ten feet down the row. But the wheel is rusted solid on the shaft, and the tire is damn near impossible to pry off with levers, so I get to Be Creative.
@macromeh If you have the space, cutting a perpendicular slot through the nut (and stud) with an angle grinder to split it can do the trick too. Less risk to the hub, although if the stud is spinning, I wonder if it’s damaged already.
@narfcake @werehatrack I thought about going that route, but there are 6 lugs per wheel ( x2 wheels) and it seems kind of tedious vs. just blasting them off with the torch. I’m not too worried about minor damage to the hub, since the trailer is only used on my property and at slow (tractor) speeds.
@macromeh In that case, yeah, torch them.
@macromeh @narfcake Yep, torch 'em, and JBWeld the replacement studs in place if the hole has been reamed out past an oversize by the old one spinning. Like you said; low speeds, off-road, farm use; no worries.
@werehatrack are you using the high torque? The Ryobi and the rigid did very well on TTC. However a lot of people keep saying the high torque are overkill and too heavy why would you ever need them blah blah get the mid torque because it’s half a pound lighter? They must live south of the rust belt…
This is beyond stupid to me. If I can fit it in I want that nut/bolt off. Why buy a mid-torque… Unless it was subcompact.
My 10 year old craftsman C3 only rated 250-300 LB-Ft and thats plenty for lug nuts. I need a reason to upgrade.
I want it too break loose that 20 year old rusted trailing arm/stabilizer/sway bar. The last hell was trailing arms with bolts frozen in the bushings.
You try and just wrench it off and the worn out rubber breaks and it spins in place. Put wrench on the back braced to the frame and work on the other. Nothing. This is where you want it to work or snap the bolt.
Otherwise you have to burn off the rubber with a torch, to get to the bushing with grinder wheel to cut to the bolt, to cut the bolt with a hacksaw…
@unksol Yep, it’s the big brushless high-torque. It might have a smidge less in the beans category than their favorite Milwaukee, but that’s like comparing TNT and C4 for stump removal. The job is going to get done.
@werehatrack mmm… I wonder if it would help with frozen bushings. Since the only way to stabilize them is with a wrench on the back against something. I would guess you might lose a little bit of torque but it’s probably so fast it would maintain the tension.
I assume you find it was not to heavy or large? Those complaints seemed… Dumb. I get the cost issue but there were a few hacks this year for both high torques
@unksol It’s a bit heavier than the middie and the original, but not all that much heavier than the ancient CP734 units I’ve been using for 45 years. I guess it’s all in your perspective. It’s definitely longer than my old air guns, so there are places that it won’t fit, but the convenience of not needing to drag 75 feet of air hose out to the driveway has a lot of value. And the HP has zipped the front axle nuts off of the FWD vehicles without any trouble at all, where the long air line and my 140-psi-max compressor has made the old air guns a bit anemic at times.
Much needed tool purchase earlier this year:
https://www.harborfreight.com/10mm-metric-essential-socket-set-10-piece-58957.html
(Go figure that I lost the whole package for a while, though. It fell between the rear seats and the battery pack.)
@narfcake Just skip the middleman and don’t even include the 12-point.
@GetClosure @narfcake Many Ford engines (and some others) have had twelve-point heads on a lot of the fasteners. Some of them were those finicky torque-to-yield bolts for the cylinder heads.
@GetClosure @werehatrack And then, there’s stuff like XZN bolts, which are a 12-point triple square. It’s probably the least concern when it comes to the vehicles they’re used on, though.
Step 1: remove the front end.
/image Audi service position
@werehatrack Honda LOVES to put in 12-pt 10mm head bolts in for internal engine parts like conrod and case bolts where torque and bolt elongation is a careful spec. Basically, if it’s loadbearing and one-time use, it needs the one socket that goes walkabout.
It’s the common trope that it’s always the 10mm 12-pt socket that goes missing. I swear, I must have put a few kids through college on getting just the singles off the Snap-On truck from work alone. lol
In that Hazard Fraught set, they just don’t even bother.
@GetClosure All of that!
BTW, when you buy a set of Hooboy Frack impecker sockets, instead of cussing a blue streak while trying to get 'em off that plastic rack, just take a 3/16" drill bit and counterbore the holes in the sides of the sockets to take off the little plastic prong that’s keeping them in place. Big savings of invective that you may need later!
@werehatrack Thanks for the valuable consumer advice from the pain we’ve all felt before! All the bent-backwards thumbnails, all the chipped teeth … We suffer so nobody else HAS to.
@narfcake Is that the 1.8T? I have one of those in my old B6 (I think that’s the generation anyway) Passat Wagon because it’s relatively tech friendly! No transverse i4 here!
@GetClosure The one from the /image looks like an A4 B6 1.8T.
Passat B5 (1998-2005) is longitudinal but B6 (2006-2010) went transverse before the platforms split to the B7 (Global) and NMS (North America, China, and Middle East).
@GetClosure OBTW, I haz made a YooToob vid…
@werehatrack Handy vid indeed! They put those sockets on to survive a hard life on the shelves, that’s for sure! Maybe the reason the Snap-On stuff is so pricey is because they do that for you before you buy.
@narfcake Yeah, then I have that last year of the transverse 2005. It was the odd duck GL that was only FWD so there is a ton of space in the engine bay since they went with the whole Audi enchilada and crowbarred the whole A4 AWD drive train in there. Bought it cheap but already had to replace a cam chain tensioner on it and the heater core is inop. Old adage holds true that there’s nothing more expensive than a cheap German car.
@GetClosure If it’s not the parts prices, it’s the labor to get to the said part – plus the occasional randomness of stuff that shouldn’t fail at its age but does anyway. Like a sensor. Except it’s an intermittent failure so it’s not easily diagnosed.
(And then some have their flaws from the very onset; overhauling the cooling system should be considered scheduled maintenance on many BMWs.)
@GetClosure @narfcake With VW, it’s the parts prices as well. Back in early '84, when I was the parts manager for a VW dealer, we got a request for the price of the complete set of factory seat covers for an '83 Scirocco. It was $150 less than the price of the car. We still had one of the vehicles in stock; when the insurance adjuster called back to get the numbers, I told him that our new car sales manager would happily cut him a deal to sell them a whole vehicle for the price of those covers. The insurance company decided to have custom ones made locally instead. Daimler and BMW are both less outrageously rapacious with their parts pricing than VW.
Favorite thing: Walking.
Favorite TV Show: Mandalorian.
Favorite meal: Way too much osso buco with roasted garlic and brie polenta. Boy, the house smelled good that day.
Favorite Movie: Monty Python’s Holy Grail. That’s never going to change.
Favorite Purchase: IWI Zion-15 pew pew. It’s pretty awesome
KRULL! A SKULL! BRETT HULL! AWESOME!
My giant inflatable German shepherd Loba (whom one of y’all named) finally arrived, nearly three years after I ordered her.
@PooltoyWolf
Nice train in the shot. It looks as though her name is Dusty, though!
@Kyeh Long press on the image.
That is Amtrak train 91, the southbound Silver Star, approaching the Orlando station! I timed the shot just right, and I wanted this location because of the very appropriate graffiti, heh.
@PooltoyWolf
Umm … I’m not getting it.
@Kyeh Okay so, I have named my individual inflatable Loba, the feminine version of Lobo (wolf), but the actual product run (the given name of the inflatable toy) is Dusty Shepherd. That’s why I chose that photo location!
(If you’re on a mobile device, tapping and holding on the image should bring up a dialog box containing additional text. I think the same thing happens on a PC if you right-click on the image.)
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf No dialogue box on a Samsung S9.
@PooltoyWolf Thanks for the explanation. I think my iPhone S7 isn’t new enough for that because nothing comes up when I tap and hold except a query about whether I want to share, add to photos, or copy the image.
And now I agree, very apropriate setting!
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf here is what I get if it helps
@Kyeh @werehatrack Very strange. I’m on a Samsung Galaxy S9+ at this very moment using Google Chrome and it pops up just fine for me! Also worked using same settings on my previous devices. (S8+, S7 Active, S5)
@Kyeh @tinamarie1974 That looks correct!
@Kyeh Apple devices may be different! I have not used an iPhone since the 4, and that came out in 2010.
EDIT: Do you mean iPhone 7S? S7 is a Samsung Galaxy device (Galaxy S7) as far as I know.
@PooltoyWolf Oh, right - I have the iPhone 7 Plus, sorry. I know I don’t have what newer ones have, with the photo identification thing; I send pictures of plants to my friend who has the iPhone 14 and she can identify them just by pressing on the pictures.
@Kyeh I guess Apple was slow on the uptake heh, I was able to do it on my Galaxy S5 and that was released in 2014, almost a decade ago!
@PooltoyWolf Dang.
@Kyeh I can’t ever afford new phones anyway
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf
Oh wow I LOVE that Google lens feature! I use it all the time, almost daily!
PooltoyWolf, WHY almost 3 years waiting time to get Dusty/Loba? THAT seems ridiculously long, is that the normal gestation time for blow-ups?
@Kyeh @Lynnerizer Absolutely not! Unfortunately, there was a horrible combination of a devastating house fire for the company owner (Paradise, CA fire), COVID-19, and operational changes and hiccups at the factory…all combining to produce a 35-month wait time.
Depending on the company and specific project, the average wait time from project conception to inflatables in hands is between 9-18 months. COVID has significantly lengthened that time lately, due to slowdowns caused primarily by factory shutdowns and material shortages.
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf I’m on the app. There’s no telling which browser API it’s hooking on to. On this phone, probably the Samsung version.
@Kyeh @werehatrack App for what?
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf It’s the Meh app. It’s a Thing. Apps. All the big, important places have 'em. Some of them are possible to use without endangering your sanity.
OBTW, in the app, there’s no row of icons for Bold and Italics and Photo and such.
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf @werehatrack that is my big complaint. Charlie uses the app while I use chrome so he doesnt have to log in/out all the time (no thumbs and all, hard for a doggo to type) and he cannot post pics
@PooltoyWolf
Yeah, I bought this 7 new, but it wasn’t the most recent version when I did.
(And just noticed I mistyped “appropriate.”)
@Kyeh @werehatrack TIL!
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf @werehatrack guess I did too, b/C I had to look up the meaning of TIL lol
@Kyeh @tinamarie1974 @werehatrack TYL
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf @werehatrack TIL AGAIN
@Kyeh @PooltoyWolf Oh yeah, dare I say I FORGOT about Covid? That set EVERYTHING back!
@PooltoyWolf since I have your attention (off topic here)… saw this - might be a costume they dragged up that mountain looking at the feet, but maybe not (part of an article I read). If it is a costume maybe you should buy one so you can look like your buddies. And scare some onlookers when suddently you “come alive”.
@Kidsandliz @PooltoyWolf I see those wandering around anime and comic cons all the time, along with several others. At DragonCon this past year, there was a guy in full Indiana Jones being followed around by the giant stone ball from the early part of the first movie, apparently being cosplayed by his daughter. The stone appeared to have been a custom-made inflatable. It was very well done.
@Kidsandliz Yep, costume! I see these guys quite frequently in online videos xP Wish they’d make a wolf one…and not a scary werewolf, a huggable one!
@Kidsandliz @werehatrack That sounds awesome! Reminds me of Megaplex in 2021 when we rolled a giant beach ball down the boardwalk. LOL!
POKER! JOKER! NOT MEDIOCRE! AWESOME!
Best “wasted time”, so to speak:
Re-watching
A Fistfull of Dollars
For A Few Dollats More
The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly
*Once Upon A Time On The West
/giphy Clint Eastwood shootout
@f00l I was fortunate enough to watch TG,TB, & TU in a bona fide movie theater years ago: powerful imagery!
In 2022 reality TV is still my go to for boob box entertainment and my favorite food is still syrian meat pies. The best ones (when I can’t make them myself) are from Sam’s bakery in Fall River, Massachusetts.
But my BEST purchase/gift of 2022 was my new SUV from my dad. There hasn’t been a single time that I’ve gotten behind the wheel and didn’t say (either out loud or to myself) how much I LOVE my car! As it turned out that’s also the last physical gift my dad was able to give me. Sadly, he passed away just 5 months later.