@shahnm, Not that you care, but one remote likely cuts off all the other lights because remote controls aren’t made smart enough to tell one from the other. BTW, I recently bought 6 RC bulbs & each had it’s own Remote, but 1 controls all the bulbs. Nevertheless, I gots Five extra RCs! The nicer part is I have 5 Extra batteries!!
@Jonas4321@werehatrack I think I used some 3M adhesive to attach my dashcam to my car’s windshield. The adhesive came with the dashcam. As long as these things are not heavy and the surfaces are clean and the adhesive is decent, it should last a while.
@werehatrack could be. I would plan on mounting these onto (under) a horizontal surface, so that the tape would be pulled against by gravity perpendicular to the adhesive. If I mounted them to a vertical surface, the gravitational force would be parallel to the adhesive, and such a shear force takes much less adhesion to overcome. I picked up some motion sensing light bars for just a little more than these and they have a magnet strip that allows for easy removal for battery replacement (side issue… if you used the doublestick on these, how do you remove them to get the battery door off for replacement?) The doublestick on those came unstuck in a few days which surprised me because it was really sticky and my surface was polyurethane and whistle clean. I just put a couple small screws through the magnet strip and it has held for over a year.
I do see where these can accommodate a couple of screws for mounting, so moot issue.
It is the alleged color of the glow of a plasma of typical stellar atmospheric gases at that temperature, to be precise. And 3000K would be more toward the brighter-yellow than the typical 2700K incandescent bulb’s orange-ish, but still way too low for my tastes. Most of my fixtures have a mix of 5000K to 6500K LEDs and CFLs in them.
But these are from Aduro, whose specs and docs are often incomplete, uninformatrive, and/or misinformative. The actual color temp might be entirely different.
@werehatrack touch pad and remote means it’s always sucking some battery power from the tiny little AAAs even if you don’t use it for months. so if placed in an RV closet, like I would do, almost certainly on your next trip they will be dead and need to be replaced. Or take them out every time and put back in just when needed.
Honestly this type of light with AAAs and battery-suck design are an example of BAD IDEAS that somehow PERSIST. It’s not just Meh it’s Costco and Sams and other retailers too. I think everyone buys this type once or a few times before realizing that it’s just a bad idea. …and maximizing e-waste as well, which I think is Meh’s “mission statement” (remember when that was the corporate big thing to do?)
@werehatrack Might be a motion detector. I have lights like this, except they have a cord, with a motion detector, I have over the kitchen sink. This is a bad idea with cats if they have tails for middle of the night darkness. Because obviously, like demented toddlers, they believe the rules about being on kitchen countertops only hold when I am around to see that they are actually following the rules. I now, nightly, have to create a barrier to keep them off the counter top anywhere near where their tail will trigger the light.
Have you discovered the Cat Training Tape method yet? Leave long strips of cheap, light-duty clear 2" or 3" carton sealing tape on the edge of the counter, sticky side up. They swiftly learn not to jump up there anymore.
@werehatrack I am sure there will be a learning process that will happen in the middle of the night. There will be cats leaping all over the place trying to get the tape off them and then wind up wrapped in it. At 3am. More than once. I’ve had that happen on occasion with roach sticky boards.
@Mandamm I think it’s 3aaa per light, a usual setup for small cheap lights. I’m gonna pass on this, dunno what I’d do with it. There are times when I want to turn on a fixed cordless light (e.g. dark hallway) and have it turn off afterwards, but a timer seems simpler than this crap with remotes to lose.
@cengland0 yep. Jokes aside though. I do want these if it’s an RF remote. If it IR then it won’t work in my intended setup. I can’t tell from the pictures of the remote and it ain’t listed anywhere. I’d need to see if it had a little led or led window in the front to show that it’s IR. No led or window and it’s probably RF.
200 Lumens? If anything, that’s what would provide the ‘Cool White Glow’, but 200 Lumens are Not that Bright, so what is cool about that¿ And the lower setting would probably be 100 Lumens & that would really be a Cruel & Crude Low Blow & ½ Ass Unbright & with cheap ass unrechargable AAA batteries!! Never, Ever the fn less, i’m probably going to buy these 4 suckers just so l can control something around here, aside my other remote control crap & No, I don’t have Alexia, nor any of those other fake, or virtual female assistants, so…!!
@1DisabledWarVet@patentdude If they’re telling the truth about the color temp, 15 to 20 watt incandescent equivalent, yep. For small-space light, that’s useful. In a large space, it’s little more than a night light - which can be useful for avoiding the sleeping cat in the middle of the floor, but might not keep you from finding the errant D4 that said cat hockeyed back out into the path before curling up for a nap.
@patentdude, yeah, it’s barely a real 20W bulb, which IS one of them old cheap yellowish bulbs. They might work under a stove hood, but if I placed it inside my glass, and cup cabinet, the brightness, or lack of it would just piss me off!
@1DisabledWarVet@patentdude My needs may be different, which goes back to the AAA and battery-drain thing. I just want a light, not super-bright-blinding-Sunshine-color, so I can find my underwear in an RV cabinet in the early AM before the Sun comes up.
So I don’t need lots of lumens and actually the “warmer” yellowish-tint is OK with me. But if the batteries go dead in a month or two (from the remote sensor control) even if never used, then it’s pretty useless to me.
@patentdude@pmarin, You mean you wear underwear? Anyway, the 3000K is really not rated as a Cool White Glow, but is a Warm White Glow which means you’ll get a warm soft yellowish glow & hopefully, less lumens should translate into a less drain of the batteries. Enjoy!!
… sometimes, that “needing light” thing happens in the same place over and over again. … Usually it’s NOT enough to make you actually go through the pain in the ass that actually doing anything about it would be.
Peeling the two strips of protective paper off the back of a push-to-turn-on puck light, and sticking it where it’s useful, is a pain in the ass? How long have those 'roids been getting worse?
If you are not going to use the lights any time soon, you must turn the lights off using the LIGHT BUTTON itself. The remote “OFF" leaves the batteries draining. It may look like they are off, but they are draining. I am using 5 out of 6 lights. After one month of thinking they were off, all the batteries were drained (except the 6th one which I had turned off at the light button before I stored it). It kind of defeats the convenience of having a remote. NOTE: The lights must be turned ON at the light button for the remote to work.
@werehatrack Well, if that’s true for these lights, it’s potentially GOOD news. If there is really a hard-wired on-off switch on the unit, then it might solve the problem of constant battery drain that most of us have experienced with virtually all Chinese “smart” AAA light devices. It means it is likely to work when you need it, if you turn on the manual switch. Still only get 1/3 as much runtime as if they put some AA’s into it, but that’s why I think these are sold here…
Now if we could just instead have some lights powered by USB powerbanks I think we would all be much happier.
It doesn’t admit what they use for the batteries in the remotes, but I’m betting that most people are going to chuck these things as a bad deal long before they go through the batteries in those remotes anyway. The reviews I found say that leaving them in the mode that makes the remote functional is enough by itself to eat a set of batteries in a month or less.
Anyway, FWIW, it looks like these might be tolerable manual-switch small-area lights with a mediocre but useful potential runtime IF you chuck the remotes and just use the on/off switch on the center front. For five bucks apiece, that’s neither a complete ripoff nor much of a bargain since rough equivalents (in terms of utility) can be had for as little as a couple of bucks, albeit with admittedly less light output in most cases. And you still have to deal with the leaky-alkaline-battery hazard if you leave them unmaintained for long periods, even if the batteries weren’t dead when the unit was last used. Are they worth it to you?
Ok I got mine and the work awesome have 12 under cabinet and I left one on high one on low with new batteries (168 AAA) from Amazon daily deal at $18. It lasted around 20 hours on high & 38 hours on low. Not bad at all
First, shipped waaaaay late. Second, took forever (2 weeks) to move from shipping destination to it’s first way point). Third, marked as ‘delivered’, haven’t seen it anywhere, at all. Fourth, no response from seller or Meh, fucking crickets.