I don’t have these ones, but I have the same style in my entryway, my closet, my staircase, my shed, my other closet, the only downside is that they take batteries. I don’t think a solar light in the closet is going to work well, though.
@mehvid1@phendrick@werehatrack heh, I see how my phrasing sounds like I meant my partner and I are gender neutral. I’m male and use he/him, and my partner is female and uses she/her. I meant I like to use the word partner because it’s more inclusive, like another long term relationship is just as meaningful as ours whether it’s heterosexual or homosexual, married or not, or just two people who really love each other.
I had these (or equivalent - they are all basically the same Chinese design) to light up my pantry/closet and went through batteries like crazy. Finally found some that are rechargeable (iirc, around $20 per pair, 500 lumens each) and they work like a champ - I gave the battery-powered ones away. Plus, at 200 lumens each, these don’t really put out much lux, they’re roughly the equivalent of a 25W standard bulb. Hard pass.
@CBL_WV Came here to say about the same. I bought a few 3-packs of rechargeable ones with an unpronounceable brand name from Bez-mart. I usually put two or three in each pantry level that needs light so that at least one is likely to be working when the other is not. They have magnetic backs, so when one is dead, I remove it from the metal plate, connect it to a micro-USB cable I have at the ready for such recharging jobs, and a few hours later (or whenever my spouse asks me why there’s a light bar charging on the kitchen counter), I put it up and we’re back in business. I wouldn’t want to replace batteries. Ugh.
@Zott Actually I agree I only need them for smaller closet/cabinet areas; I don’t expect to light a large area and I don’t want blindingly bright.
But I had to check one thing… Aaargh, it’s that again. Why Why Why? (Olympic moment). AAA batteries! AAA batteries store about 1/3 as much as AA batteries yet cost the same. With slightly different design most of these lights COULD use AA instead, but AAA seems to be common. It’s just not practical as many have noted poor battery life on similar models. Of course I’ll usually use good rechargeables but there is a lot of time spent swapping batteries (especially if this is mounted inside a cabinet), and then charging (and finding the charger), I had one similar unit from Costco that also needed you to take a Philips #0 screwdriver just to open the compartment where the batteries were – seems so silly in a light where you might plan to change them often.
I purchased these from MEH previously, one worked fir a week, the other NEVER worked. ABSOLUTELY MEH screw ya up the kazoo garbage…what happened to the old time MEH…obviously owned by a distant grandfather who gave a shit
@chienfou@LongIslandDad@werehatrack Actually I like “dingy yellow” for many things, but that’s more like 2000K or 2700K as common “old-style low-wattage incandescent colors.” 3000 is a bit cooler, but you are right, I noticed that too, that “cool white glow” sounds a bit more than that. Maybe a “cool white” incandescent (used to be a color designation). Once you get up to 5000K I guess the LEDs are often called “daylight”
@chienfou@LongIslandDad@werehatrack That’s very cool. (or warm, on the left). Yeah I’d say “cool white” is more like 4-5000 given that. Maybe daylight is a bit more. The really blu-ish ones on the right remind of the very early LED lights that really had this erie color that was not at all natural (not like daylight either, except maybe in some weird sci-fi movie). I do have some desk and floor lamps now that let you choose the color temp because they have a mix of LED types. The idea is that you might want the “cooler” one for reading, studying, crafts, things like that, and the warmer (lower color temp) more as relaxing background light, especially in the evening before bed. I find I mostly tend to use the “warm” (lowest) setting.
– The color temp is definitely more 5500-ish, based on direct comparison to the track light in the work room.
– Where I had that unit positioned, it would have been activating maybe one or twice a week, and likely less. But the batteries were dead after less than a month. I suspect that the control circuit’s drain is substantially higher than it needs to be, and this may explain why Meh ended up with them. This makes them the perfect portable item to equip with a Trackr Pixel since by the time the light stops working because it has killed its batteries despite having seldom illuminated, the Pixel will likely have exhausted its tiny lithium cell as well.
@blaineg Yep, boneheaded portable device design continues. In something like a small flashlight, maybe I can understand. In something you mount into a cabinet or closet, there is no reason not to redesign it maybe a few MM thicker and let you use AAs instead.
Regarding the “rechargeable” ones mentioned with USB charging, that sounds good, except for the period of maybe 1-6 years down the road when the internal battery dies, and then you basically have nothing but e-Waste. Being able to replace batteries is important. I’d love more things like this with replaceable Li batteries like the 18650s that are everywhere now, but that’s a bit too big in form. As far as I know there’s no small-format Li battery in a standard easily-available size.
One more vote in favor of “I want some that use better rechargeable batteries, and have a 6500K color temp, and don’t have to be dismounted to swap the batteries, and particularly don’t use leaky-bottomed alkaline cells no matter what size the batteries are.” But those won’t get down to this price until there are a lot more people who want them. Maybe I’ll convert the ones I bought last time…
I have a tiny one with just three LEDs across from the bathroom door, and it uses three AAA batteries. It’s not bright enough to wake me up at night when the cats trip it, but it makes the difference between stumbling over loud things in the dark and maneuvering around them. When the LEDs start to dim a bit, I know it’s time to swap the batteries, but I suspect that with four, one could go fully dead and leaky before the light level gave a clue. Plus, if any cell leaks in this one, it’s going to be a pain to remove because it misfeatures a small-door end-loading design.
I definitely would use rechargeables in these, but the last ones I got were a pain to change batteries in due to having them in a dark location in the back of a broom closet and taped in place. Guess I could cobble together some sort of magnetic or velco hanging method instead of the ‘included adhesive tape’. OR, I could finally, actually hardwire a light in there using the fridge switch I salvaged at one point…
/giphy decisions decisions
Well DID want these, at first. There is no design advantage to these being 1/8th" smaller - so why don’t these take AA batteries? AAA batteries have too little capacity in comparison. Who wants to take these down every few months for a battery change .
@cliquid@werehatrack Yeah and I can’t really blame the LEDs because now most of them will be similar efficiency of Lumes/mWh, – the problem is the AAA batteries. As I’ve mentioned, for a few mm thinner case, (which probably wouldn’t matter in a cabinet or closet), the AAAs give you about 1/3 the capacity of an AA, at basically the same (or higher) cost, and that’s whether you go with disposable or rechargeable. I mostly use rechargeable all the time but if swapping is a pain, then I would hate this light.
Based on the longevity of the same brand and size of batteries in a different design of unit, but still one that has nominally similar operational parameters, the batteries are being killed by this light’s control circuit. The same brand of batteries, activating a light multiple times per night, last for as much as six months in the other light, but are exhausted despite a very low cycle count in less than a month in these units. That’s the problem with electronic switching circuitry; if it’s not designed right, it eats a bigger-than-trickle amount of juice all the time, and runs the battery flat all by itself.
@cliquid@werehatrack yeah, I forgot about that drain. Now a motion sensor is going to use a bit of power constantly — another reason to at least not use AAAs. But yeah there have been notable failed products, like some Duracell flashlights at Costco a few years ago, that just for a « smart » on/off switch would drain the AAAs in a few months when off. Not very « smart »
I had a set of those Costco flashlights. They weren’t Duracell branded lights, but they came with Duracell batteries. I swapped out the “smart” three-function switch for a very dumb one scavenged from the old freebie flashlights that Harbor Freight used to feature as a gimme every so often, and that solved two problems. The batteries no longer went dead for no good reason, and the flashlight didn’t have two factually useless modes that served only to annoy me.
I have an identical unit in our laundry closet/garage entry hall. With frequent use, the A³ batts need changing monthly. I have two round ones in the garage that use C batts, which need changing every 1-2 years.
@MrNews Yeah I have some outdoor lights in driveway that use “D” batteries. It set them in expecting to last a few months max. They are still working after 2 years. It’s not something that gets triggered that frequently, so that’s one reason. But yeah, bigger batteries is good in this case. AAAs definitely are not.
As long as you remember to check the batteries for leakage periodically regardless of use, and regardless of whether the device is functioning, yes. I’ve had the displeasure of extracting the badly-corroded-in-place leaky alkalines from a Maglite that was still nominally functional a week earlier, and it was an all-afternoon task. Power tools and specially modified chisels were emphatically involved.
@MrNews@werehatrack yep. I had an old vintage MagLight. But it was more than a week I left it. Maybe 10 years. But anyway tried many tools, watched YouTube. Considered all sorts of toxic disassembly. Ultimately had to give up and process as e-waste. (or maybe it’s in a box outside waiting for a place to accept e-waste again)
@pmarin@werehatrack I did not have battery leakage problems for decades, then suddenly had ruinous leakage in several devices over 1-2 years, all containing Kirkland (Costco) A² or A³ batteries. Stopped using them and went back to slightly-more-expensive Duracell batts, and leakage problems ceased. Considered bringing the ruined devices & leaking batts to Costco, but too much trouble. Lesson learned.
My leakers were all either Duracells, Energizers, or Ray-o-vac. The latter were the worst for a while; I had an 8-pack that had six leakers before I had opened the clamshell, and they were just over a year old. I’d avoided all of the store-brand batteries in a quest for a lack of leaks, but for a long time, they all were really bad about it. Energizer claimed to have cleaned up their act first, and was advertising “won’t leak like the other leading brand”, but really, they’ll all still leak a bit if they aren’t yanked before they go completely dead.
@MrNews@pmarin@werehatrack My worst leakers are Costco’s Kirklands, I’ve quit buying them. I’ve also had some leakers from the Lucas AA’s that were sold here or on Woot. Yes, I should probably expect that from Lucas.
But the Lucas leakers are weird, they keep working while leaking.
These just appear to have an on/off switch? Not sure how that works. The ones I got from Costco a few years ago had a 3-position switch off/motion/on, so you could make it stay on if you wanted (obviously limited by battery time), or motion, or off-for-sure. That one took AAs (GOOD!). Also needed you to remove it and use a tiny philips screwdriver to swap batteries (BAD!). And I don’t think they cost more than 2/$20 at the time. So, all that said, not sure that these are such a good deal, especially with the “remove sticky tape and insert more AAA batteries” thing.
@bvandrasik plenty bright enough for the back of the cabinets I would use it for. But swapping AAAs that self-drain is the problem for me. There are pleny of 500-1000 lm lights usually for outdoor use, but they should use C or D cells, 18650 or similar, or proprietary Li batteries like Arlo and Ring.
EDIT a lot of the proprietary ones have solar-charge options so for outdoor use you can wire in a panel and basically be permanently charged (as long as get some sunlight occasionally and configure to not run too long at a time).